Help with Microtech idle problem

[konfla]

Hello friends! I am new here. Happy to have acquired a Street Beast, With Microtech EFI, twin turbo 5.0. High end seems fine but car was converted to Automatic and stalls when put into gear. Checked for vacuum leaks. IAC valve doesn't seem to do anything.

Yes I know all the woes of microtech. Been considering a new ECU or possibly going back to standard tranny.

All coments appreciated.
Jeff

[eschaider]

Jeff, their website they have does not offer any insights into the tuning software, it's capabilities, the fueling model(s) they use / support and a wide range of other good to know before purchasing information.

The website does indicate they have disconnected their phones so they do not have to actually talk with their customers. All communication needs to be by email. Supporting product pages for items like coils provide no factual product data (like spark energy at the plug, dwell window etc) to help you decide upon / select the best product for your build.

There seems to be a troubling arrogance they display in their customer solicitation and support and this is presale. These types of providers usually only get worse in the after sale space, when you need help.

I would sell the system for whatever you can get for it and replace it with a product from a more customer and customer service focussed firm.


Ed

[Gaz64]

What model Microtech are you using?

[konfla]

Thanks guys, I have the LT10S. I’ve considered scrapping it and getting mega squirt but it’s a lot of work and expense. Plus it’s almost there, just idle problems and cold starts. I’ve also considered just going carburetor or also reconverting to 5 speed which would solve the problems and add value.

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by konfla

Thanks guys, I have the LT10S. I’ve considered scrapping it and getting mega squirt but it’s a lot of work and expense. Plus it’s almost there, just idle problems and cold starts. I’ve also considered just going carburetor or also reconverting to 5 speed which would solve the problems and add value.

The MegaSquirt MS3Pro PnP will cost you $1,349 and you will need a wiring harness out of a 1999-2004 Mustang Mach I, that its available in salvage yards cheap. The rest of your 'stuff' will work with the MS3Pro. Offset the MS3Pro price with whatever you get for the Microtech and it is even cheaper.

Here is a link to the webpage, click here MS3Pro PnP It doesn't get much easier and the box comes with an excellent base tune, Just go in change your engine displacement, injector size and set the firing order and you should be good to go right out of the box. While you are on that page watch the install video. It is stunningly easy.

They actually have a telephone number, tech support team and talk to you when you call not to mention an excellent user group website full of helpful information.


Ed

[konfla]

I’m not sure I understand why I would need the wire harness. All the sensors now connect to the micro tech. Wouldn’t they just switch over to the ms3? Also the micro tech runs mostly off the vacuum pressure, does megasquirt even use a vacuum connection?
And with my luck, it will turn out to be something else was the problem all along like a faulty IAC valve.

[eschaider]

MegaSquirt runs off electricity and so does MicroTech. I think you mean to say Microtech uses a Speed Density fueling model. Megasquirt uses Speed Density, Alpha-N and Mass Air Flow. Of the three Mass Air Flow is the most capable, followed by the Speed Density model. In terms of popularity the Speed Density is the most popular aftermarket fueling model.

Megasquirt can use all Ford sensors, GM sensors or just about any sensor that has calibration data available for it. The MicroTech ECU uses a variety of differently sourced sensors frequently w/o any published calibration data aong with a MicroTech proprietary wiring harness connector that will not match up to an OEM Ford ECU.

The MS3Pro PnP ECU uses the OEM Ford wiring harness connector. That allows it to literally "plug" right in to the OEM Ford Wiring harness. There area number of benefits for you to this approach. OEM harnesses are extremely well built and will last 20, 30 or more years. They are very tough, well constructed and where necessary shielded from electrical noise. Best of all they use standard Ford over the counter (at your local parts store) Ford sensors so you don't get sucked into having to buy overpriced (2x multiplier or higher sometimes) EFI manufacturer branded sensors.

They are also available for pennies on the dollar from salvage yards.

The use of the OEM wiring harness is about durability, connectability and fairly priced over the counter (at your local parts store) OEM Ford sensors. It is also about not having to build your own custom harness — which is a PITA.


Ed

[konfla]

thanks Ed, You make some great points and good information. For my project it would be a lot of work to rewire the harness and get all new sensors. As you know things are really tight under the dash on these things.
My wiring was done very well by the builder of the car and I could never make it look so good. I’m wondering g if there is any way to tell if the IAC valve is actually working real time.

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by konfla

thanks Ed, You make some great points and good information. For my project it would be a lot of work to rewire the harness and get all new sensors. As you know things are really tight under the dash on these things.
My wiring was done very well by the builder of the car and I could never make it look so good. I’m wondering g if there is any way to tell if the IAC valve is actually working real time.

Easiest way is to make idle adjustments in the tune and check a data log to see if the IAC responds.


Ed