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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2021, 07:36 AM
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Or how short the passengers skirt is
Gaz64 likes this.
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Old 12-25-2021, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
It all depends on what you're wearing at the time.
[quote=incoming;1501448]Or how short the passengers skirt is[/quote]


... so he's talkin' about the red-light district. Makes more sense, now.



(Not sure why the second quote in not showing properly... it looks correct, syntactically.)
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Last edited by PDUB; 12-25-2021 at 09:52 PM..
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Old 12-26-2021, 02:12 PM
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What's your idle speed? Does it give better voltage at say 2000rpm?
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Old 12-26-2021, 02:16 PM
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No, it seems to drop off line and that's it. Every once on a while I'll look at the voltmeter while driving around the corner with it and it's up to 13v, then it's gone again. I have to believe it's the alternator. What else could it be? Either that or someting isn't right with the wire that is supposed to "excite" the alternator. If that were the case, why would it initially work and then not? I'm going to move that wire to the ACC terminal on the ignition switch and see if that does anythng, but I doubt it. If it was a bad ignition switch, the ignition would drop out as well if the switch terminal I'm on was bad too. It's not doing that. This whole thing is driving me batty.
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Old 12-26-2021, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 767Jockey View Post
I'm going to move that wire to the ACC terminal on the ignition switch and see if that does anything, but I doubt it.
Before you start replacing stuff, start the car up, put the VOM on it, watch how it has a nice 13+ volts and then when it drops off try wiggling the wires that go to the VR and whack the VR with the back of a screwdriver. See if you can get the voltage to bounce up by doing any of that.
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Old 12-26-2021, 02:42 PM
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Maybe the regulator has an intermittent thermal related problem.
$25 for the part, freeze it spray is about that anyway
Fix or repair daily 😬
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Old 12-26-2021, 02:44 PM
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Quite possibly could be the internal regulator cutting out once hot. Not sure if the folks who test it were under no-load conditions?
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/A...Regulator-Test
The regulator is only 4 screws though.
https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Regul...ps%2C88&sr=8-6
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XK4SQi88WBc
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Old 12-26-2021, 03:39 PM
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You crack me up, I just assumed its been gently wacked with a hammer.
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Old 12-26-2021, 03:50 PM
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You crack me up, I just assumed its been gently wacked with a hammer.
It is known in the trade as the "jiggle and whack" test.
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Old 12-26-2021, 05:39 PM
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I just hooked the light back into the circuit, and have the resistor bridgng the two terminals of the light. No charge, light stays on. I ordered a new regulator from Amazon for $30. If that doesn't work I'm out of ideas.
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Old 12-26-2021, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
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I just hooked the light back into the circuit, and have the resistor bridgng the two terminals of the light. No charge, light stays on. I ordered a new regulator from Amazon for $30. If that doesn't work I'm out of ideas.
In your very first post, is that graphic actually your alternator or is that just something you found and posted?
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Old 12-26-2021, 06:06 PM
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That graphic is one that shows how to hook up a Ford 3G alternator in a car that didn't have one. It depicts the exact same alternator I have. It's exactly the way I have it hooked up now.
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Old 12-26-2021, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 767Jockey View Post
That graphic is one that shows how to hook up a Ford 3G alternator in a car that didn't have one. It depicts the exact same alternator I have. It's exactly the way I have it hooked up now.
OK, and it has the voltage regulator on the back of the alternator itself. Now, is there by any chance some other external voltage regulator in this mix, maybe bolted to the footbox or something, or is the only voltage regulator the one on the back of the alternator?
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