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NEED OUT OF THe BOX THINKERS!
So here it goes,
Aurora cobra has an intermittent issue that seems to appear after about 40 min driving where it shuts off and will not start! It may start for a second but dies immediately. Usually in 1 hour or so it will start up and run for a bit before it dies again, Galpin Auto in La had the car for 1 week, It never did it. Mike McClusky had it for several days and changed out fuel pump removed fuel filter and ran new hoses as we THOUGHT it may be a vapor lock issue But it just did it again 2 times. Stranded on the side of the, for an hour, got it started again but died in 1/2 mile so the tow trunk was summoned. Quite puzzling but it is clear that time cures the issue so heat maybe a real factor. All thoughts welcome. thx alot |
Coils are usually very reliable however this happened to me last summer. As letting it sit (and cooling off) seems to fix things, next time it dies, immediately pour some cold water over the coil and then try it.
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Chupee,
Carb or EFI? If carb, I feel for you. When each of my hot rods (including the Cobra) did that, the only surefire cure was to switch to EFI. I chased that symptom for a few thousand miles; finally got tired of the carb boiling over and switched... Problem went away. Been there, Tom |
Heat soak issues are frequently electrical components.
I would have a spark tester handy and check for spark when this happens. Also, you should be able to look down the carb and see if fuel squirts from the accelerator pump. Even better would be to install one of the in-line fuel pressure gauges into your fuel log. They are cheap from Summit and others. You really need to know if you are losing spark or fuel. John |
What kind of ignition are you using?
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Is your coil mounted vertically or horizontal? I have heard of some coils that were mounted horizontally getting overheated. Have not experienced this personally.
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I have to agree with Argess, could be the coil, had that happen to my 74 Saab EMS, poured cold water over it, and it fired right up, made into Reno brought a new coil, problem solved. Or it could also be the Ballast Resistor (If your Aurora has one?), had the wire separate after a couple hours driving, then the coiled wire would cool and connect again, Happened in my 440 Dodge, drove me NUTS. Hope you find the Cure, Cheers Tom.
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Coil once it gets hot it’s done. This was happening on my Southern Auto SO. Changed it out and all is well.
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If using an MSD box, check your ground wire from the box to the chassis. In fact, check all ignition grounds. Then swap in a fresh coil as well.
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I had something like that where the car just died on me after 20 or 30 minutes of driving. It would start right back up and I would continue driving. This happened about 5 or 6 times. No mechanic could figure it out without happening to them. One day it died and would not start. After changing the coil and and installing msd digital 6al ignition control the cobra still would not start. Then the mechanic changed the distributor module. Some part inside the distributor. No problems any more. I hope this helps.
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Maybe the fuel pump relay? If you have one.
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a: If yes, is there a heat shield between the carb and the intake (1/8" is all that is needed)? b: If no, has the pickup sock in the fuel tank, or the fuel tank itself been cleaned out? 2: What type of ignition setup does your car have (IE: is there a round, oblong coil under the hood, or a MSD style box in the engine compartment)? a: Round/oblong coil, replace, simple, easy, inexpensive, and a do it yourself type of job. CLICK HERE for picture b: MSD style, what is the manufacturer and part number CLICK HERE for picture 3: Sticking with an ignition issue, and the type of ignition, do you have a Ford Duraspark box in the engine compartment (CLICK HERE for picture). A picture of your setup and/or engine compartment will go a long way to further assisting you in wringing out the bugs. Bill S. |
Replace the Hall effect trigger in the distributor.
That is your problem most of the time, I have a new spare one in the glovebox. The MSD light blinks 5 times if it’s ok when turned on. Pull the coil wire and check for spark by tapping/grounding the MSD white wire ( point type trigger input). If you have points get a time machine and meet us here in the future. The Party Bus uses this same trigger, has a new one in the glovebox too. |
A bit more information would be helpful. If it is vapor lock, pull off the air cleaner when it dies and look down the carb. Is it squirting gas? If so, not vapor lock.
Next, buy one of these cheap spark testers. When it dies, pull a wire and check the spark. It is usually pretty easy to tell the difference. If it is ignition, the car will just stop running. It will not hit at all when you try to restart. If it is a fuel issue, the car will usually try to hit, but won't start. I am guessing sunman withe either the hall effect sensor or an ignition module has the right answer. https://www.amazon.com/Stens-750-018...%2C143&sr=8-15 |
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Too few details on equipment to do more than guess. If its an electric fuel pump feeding a carburetor, I'd install a fuel pressure gauge mostly because of the new fuel pump. I always look at recent work (the new fuel pump) as the most likely cause of a new problem. It would be nice to know the fuel pressure AFTER the symptoms arise. . . . Second, I agree with joyridin' about checking for fuel inside the carburetor after the engine dies. If you discover that the car won't run when there is obvious fuel at the carburetor, it almost has to be the ignition system.
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What you have here is a little tiny piece of silicon that was used to seal your fuel inlet to the tank. It will intermittently get picked up by the fuel pump and clog at the inside of the tank at the strainer thus shutting down gasoline flow upward towards the engine. This happened to me and just about drove me nuts finding it. Drain the tank, drop the tank, open the float access and find the silicon. Realign the tank, but temporarily seal the input and output tubulars. Add 0.5 psi air to the tank (this will make it swell vertically), slide the tank easily in between the frame rails, release the air pressure, reconnect input and output tubulars, fill with gasoline and enjoy cruising for a change without worrying about an abrupt flameout.
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