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Kirkham Motorsports

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  • 1 Post By mrmustang
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Old 12-08-2022, 09:03 AM
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Default Who makes 3.75” spaced Quick Lifts

Wondering if any of you out there have quick lifts installed on your car that have bolt spacing of 3.75 inches versus the alternative 2.25 inches? I need a set made at 3.75 inches but do not know who makes them? @Cobra Manufactures Group
Here is that thread:
Adapting bumper to Quick Lift
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Last edited by renaissance man; 12-08-2022 at 09:19 AM.. Reason: Tagging manufacturers
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Old 12-08-2022, 03:14 PM
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Avoid any NH vendor!
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Old 12-08-2022, 03:33 PM
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Avoid any NH vendor!
He has to avoid an entire state?!?
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Old 12-08-2022, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renaissance man View Post
Wondering if any of you out there have quick lifts installed on your car that have bolt spacing of 3.75 inches versus the alternative 2.25 inches? I need a set made at 3.75 inches but do not know who makes them? @Cobra Manufactures Group
Here is that thread:
Adapting bumper to Quick Lift
Easiest thing to do is buy a set, have the existing holes welded shut, then redrill the desired pattern.


Bill S.
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Old 12-08-2022, 08:14 PM
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Or just cut them out of thick plastic and paint them. No one would know the difference and they're pretty much useless anyway. You sure can't jack your car up with them.
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Old 12-09-2022, 12:25 AM
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When we were getting our 'Club Cobra' badges made, we thought a good way to mount them, would be between the bumper tubes. Then found out most are 2.25" some @ 2.50", and longer wheelbase cars (Classic Roadster, and few others) @ 3.50" Have never seen or heard of 3.75" I would say Bill S. or Patrickt ideas are best choices, as Patrickt said, we can never use as intended anyways . Cheers Tom.
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Old 12-09-2022, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Or just cut them out of thick plastic and paint them. No one would know the difference and they're pretty much useless anyway. You sure can't jack your car up with them.
I like that Idea - might even try it for my quick lifts using thick HDPE. Might be less damaging to shins as well!
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Old 12-09-2022, 06:21 AM
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He has to avoid an entire state?!?
There is only one NH crook that services this market as I know of it.
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Old 12-09-2022, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmustang View Post
Easiest thing to do is buy a set, have the existing holes welded shut, then redrill the desired pattern.


Bill S.
Bill, the only problem is the flange on the side does not extend long enough in a straight line to drill a secondary hole or I would probably do that as that is the easiest fix.
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Old 12-10-2022, 08:24 AM
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We have the standard 2.25" quick-jacks available; they are Superformance take-offs, steel power coated black. $100.00 for a set of 4. They have minor blemishes as they have been installed. Pictures available on request. rick@timemachinesauto.com or 716.812.3938
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Old 12-10-2022, 09:30 AM
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We have the standard 2.25" quick-jacks available; they are Superformance take-offs, steel power coated black. $100.00 for a set of 4. They have minor blemishes as they have been installed. Pictures available on request. rick@timemachinesauto.com or 716.812.3938
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Old 12-10-2022, 10:09 AM
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I’m thinking what I may need to do is get a piece of plate steel maybe an eighth of an inch thick or so and drilled two holes in it that are 3.75” apart, then mount the quick jacks with their current whole spacing of 2.25” on the plate.
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Old 12-11-2022, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renaissance man View Post
I’m thinking what I may need to do is get a piece of plate steel maybe an eighth of an inch thick or so and drilled two holes in it that are 3.75” apart, then mount the quick jacks with their current whole spacing of 2.25” on the plate.
The attached image represents my interpretation of your idea.

Yellow = Outline of metal adapter

Green = Attachement holes at 2-1/4"

Red = Attachment when bottom hole is extended to 3-3/4"

The bottom attachment hole for the 5/16"-18 bolt
needs to be countersunk to avoid interference if the
adapter plate is positioned behind the Quick Lift bracket.
A 5/16"-18 hex key countersunk bolt will work. The bolt
head is .195" so an 1/8" would not be thick enough.
Adapter positioned in front of the Quick Lift bracket will likely
require you to hog out a relief for bottom bolt clearance (red circle).

Does this look like what you were thinking?
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Last edited by Unique427; 12-11-2022 at 06:42 AM..
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Old 12-11-2022, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unique427 View Post
The attached image represents my interpretation of your idea.

Yellow = Outline of metal adapter

Green = Attachement holes at 2-1/4"

Red = Attachment when bottom hole is extended to 3-3/4"

The bottom attachment hole for the 5/16"-18 bolt
needs to be countersunk to avoid interference if the
adapter plate is positioned behind the Quick Lift bracket.
A 5/16"-18 hex key countersunk bolt will work. The bolt
head is .195" so an 1/8" would not be thick enough.
Adapter positioned in front of the Quick Lift bracket will likely
require you to hog out a relief for bottom bolt clearance (red circle).

Does this look like what you were thinking?
EXACTLY! Bought some quarter inch by three-quarter inch wide steel at the Home Depot. It will fit perfectly and not even show! The quick lift will bolt in the top pole just as you were showing and I will book the plate again at the bottom hole and make the 2 1/4 inch hole, the middle hole that showing on your drawing. I’m not sure about everybody else’s, but my tubes boat directly into the frame itself. So, with half-inch all thread, going through the center of the steel tubes directly into the frame, this should easily be able to hold being jacked up.
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Old 12-12-2022, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renaissance man View Post
EXACTLY! Bought some quarter inch by three-quarter inch wide steel at the Home Depot. It will fit perfectly and not even show! The quick lift will bolt in the top pole just as you were showing and I will book the plate again at the bottom hole and make the 2 1/4 inch hole, the middle hole that showing on your drawing. I’m not sure about everybody else’s, but my tubes boat directly into the frame itself. So, with half-inch all thread, going through the center of the steel tubes directly into the frame, this should easily be able to hold being jacked up.
I had high quality stainless steel round stock lathe turned, polished and
tapped extra deep on new support rods. Attached to frame
using ARP polished 5/16"-18 bolts both front and back side.

I use a small race jack under any Quick Lift bracket to raise a wheel
high enough to get a 3 ton floor jack under and onto the frame.
Also, if I ever have the misfortune of a road flat, the car can be lifted
high enough to position a trunk scissor jack underneath for wheel removal.

Upon testing there was no visible deformation or evidence of stress.
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Last edited by Unique427; 12-13-2022 at 05:59 AM..
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