Clutch/carb Adj.

sparks · #1 (**permalink**) 01-26-2003, 10:00 PM

Hope someone has an easy fix.
Got my car a couple of weeks ago and all is good accept, That when I push my clutch to the floor it seems as though the car still wants to move slightly.The car has a tko2 and a centerforce clutch.I was told that this clutch needs a 500 mi. break-in time.Will it get better w/use or does it need adj. .Also when trying yo go in rev. I get alittle grrrrrind sometimes.Are these clutch's easy to adj.?I used to turn a wrench often but its been a good 10 yrs...Also have a demon850 carb that runs rich,is it dif. to lean it out?That 460 is one tight fit. Any help or advice would be greatly app.

SPARKS

Ron61 · #2 (**permalink**) 01-27-2003, 07:05 AM

Sparks,

I use the Centerforce clutch in both of my cars and the 500 mile break in time is to let the clutch and everything get properly seated before you start dumping it hard. As for the car creeping that should be adjustable. You should have some kind of clutch travel adjustment near the transmission. I have one cable type and one that is rod adjustable. The reverse grind wound tend to indicate that you do need to adjust it just a little. As for the carb adjustment, I leave that for the guys who really know those carbs.

Ron

Roscoe · #3 (**permalink**) 01-27-2003, 07:34 AM

Sparks,

All carbs come a bit rich from the factory. Get yourself a jet kit and start jetting down 2 numbers at a time, front and back. Take it out and check your plugs. You check plugs by running the engine at about 4k for, say, 100 yards, and cut the engine. Pull over and yank a couple of plugs and see how they're burning. Jet down till you see them too lean and come back up 2 numbers and you should be fine.

Roscoe

Mr.Fixit · #4 (**permalink**) 01-27-2003, 08:57 AM

Either your clutch is not fully releasing, or our pilot bearing is dragging severely on the tranny input shaft, I bet the former. You can get a little more pedal action at the clutch pedal, with it's adjustabl clevis that attaches to the pedal arm. Or, depending on how you have your clutch being actuated, down at the throwout bearing is where you may need to do the adjusting. If you have an adjustable pivot ball in you bellhousing, that is a frequently mal-adjusted part. Your clutch is not fully disengaging.

sparks · #5 (**permalink**) 01-27-2003, 01:57 PM

the clutch is a hydrolic one . Does this make a diff.?

Roscoe · #6 (**permalink**) 01-27-2003, 02:35 PM

Sparks,
It is a slave cylinder or a hydraulic throw out bearing?

Roscoe

Mr.Fixit · #7 (**permalink**) 01-27-2003, 02:55 PM

Yes, we know it is hydraulic. It is an SPF. What is down in the bellhousing: a hydraulic TO bearing, or a regular TO bearing with a fork and a slave cylinder?

Down on the clutch pedal arm itself, there is a gold colored clevis that attaches the pedal arm to the clutch master cylinder. That can be adjusted for more master cylinder travel. Try that first. Unscrew the clevis a few turns so the pedal sits up a little higher at rest. That will generate a larger volume of brake fluid when you press the clutch pedal in = more travel at the TO bearing = more clutch movement which may allow you to gert complete release of your clutch. Other than that, we all need more information about your setuop and what is down in the bellhousing.

sparks · #8 (**permalink**) 01-27-2003, 10:13 PM

I will have to get back 2 u w/more specs. I also heard that threr could be alittle air in the lines and try 2 bleed them ? Thanks 4 the info so far.....