Flat tappet cam life - Page 5

cfm · #1 (**permalink**) 02-28-2006, 09:08 AM

Oil Analysis' with Zinc !
Now, this doesn't mention all oils, but a good amt of them.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/voalibrary.html

Also check out homepage for more stuff.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.html

Rotella
http://63.240.161.99:8080/bitog/voa...tella-15w40.jpg

Mobil 1 15-50
http://63.240.161.99:8080/bitog/voa...-1-ep-15w50.jpg

Mobil 1 20-50 V Twin
http://63.240.161.99:8080/bitog/voa...-twin-20w50.jpg

GM EOS
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...c;f=11;t=000243

===========================
This should nearly end our mission and with that I'm leaving. I don't have a Cobra. Darn !

Again, just wanted to help out since one of you guys also posted over at the Shell Oil forum looking for answers from them.

Keep up your good work and enjoy those beautiful Cobra's !

CFM
- Scott

CSX 4027 · #2 (**permalink**) 02-28-2006, 11:00 AM

Some of the links do not go. Could you re-post? Thanks eventhough I have a headache reading those charts.

Curt C. · #3 (**permalink**) 03-04-2006, 12:36 PM

I went out today and bought a whole bunch of Mobil 1 15W-50. All of it is rated SL/CF which has a good amount of zinc - 1376 ppm per the Bob Oil Guy website. That is a great site by the way. There appears to be a lot of the old stuff on the shelf still, at least in Las Vegas. In fact, I could not even find the newer SM rated oils except for a 0W-40. At least I now have time to investigate different products.

KevinM · #4 (**permalink**) 02-27-2006, 05:37 PM

Jerry,

That certainly makes sense. Combine the reduced oil to the top end and lifters with a windage tray and knife edged crank as was mentioned earlier, and that certainly sounds like a recipe for disaster.

Kevin

Tom Kirkham · #5 (**permalink**) 08-17-2007, 09:22 AM

I just had this site e-mailed to me. Lots of very good info...

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

bobcowan · #6 (**permalink**) 08-17-2007, 12:25 PM

Why not just add a can of STP to your favorite motor oil?

DougD · #7 (**permalink**) 08-17-2007, 01:07 PM

I'd be careful if contemplating the use of any motorcycle oils in an automobile engine. Most motorcycle oils are intended to be used in a wet clutch environment (the engine crankcase and the tranny/clutch share the same oil) and therefore lack some of the anti-friction additives found in moden automobile oils. You don't want to use regular car-type oil in a bike because it can mess up the clutch, so you probably had better not use bike oil in a car. There are many more additives in a bottle of oil than just the zinc.

Norain · #8 (**permalink**) 08-17-2007, 01:33 PM

The fellow that built the FE for my Cobra, Eric at Preformance Engineering, uses Kendal or Castrol racing oil, 20/50, both non synthetic. He's not a synthetic oil guy. I have been unable to find either of these oils here. But, I have two friends who are drag racers and sometimes run their cars on the street and they use "Lucas 20/50 Plus Racing OIL". I've talked to Eric about this stuff and he said give it a try, as long as it's not synthetic, which it isn't.
I am goina try it in about 200 miles, the first oil change. The API ratings are: SM/SL/SJ/CF. Zinc:11%. Lucas states that it has a high level of detergents. Maybe I'll try it on a load of laundry. I hope I don't sound like a Lucas oil salesman, cause I'm not, I'm just passin on info and lookin for answers. Remember, "The truth is out there". Cya, Jerry

zrayr · #9 (**permalink**) 08-19-2007, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobcowan

Why not just add a can of STP to your favorite motor oil?

there are many reasons not to use STP in a street engine. Racing engines that are rebuilt frequently, that's different.

two of the main reasons NOT to use it:

Using STP will cause a shellac-like build up on on bearing surfaces. not good.

Using STP will change a 15W-50 oil to 50W-50 or worse. IS that what you want your oil pump to encounter on cold starts?

Use a high quality synthetic oil on engines that have been broken in is the best bet. Mobil 1 15W-50 has a high level of ZDDP (1200 ppm) and will work great. I use it in my flat tappet engine with excellent results. Over 17,000 miles with no wear ( that includes cam & tappet ), no leaks, and no problems.

BTW, I don't work for Mobil,

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...t_Engines.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...1_15W-50_.aspx

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...il1_15W-50.asp

Z. Ray

jmarsey · #10 (**permalink**) 08-19-2007, 08:54 AM

I run the Crane solid rollers and have had excellent results with the Rotella T 10w-30, Castrol Tection Extra 15w-40 and frequent oil change. My friend runs the Rotella 15w-40 in his FE solid flat tappet and swears by it as well.

clayfoushee · #11 (**permalink**) 08-19-2007, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmarsey

I run the Crane solid rollers and have had excellent results with the Rotella T 10w-30, Castrol Tection Extra 15w-40 and frequent oil change. My friend runs the Rotella 15w-40 in his FE solid flat tappet and swears by it as well.

I've been using Shell Rotella 15w-40 as well, but I am told the formula changed recently, and it now has a significantly lower zinc content. So, I'm searching for the best solution now.

Although I know synthetics are far superior for sheer strength, I have concerns about the slippery stuff in a 5-year old FE. It does tend to find ways to leak better too.

zrayr · #12 (**permalink**) 08-19-2007, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clayfoushee

I've been using Shell Rotella 15w-40 as well, but I am told the formula changed recently, and it now has a significantly lower zinc content. So, I'm searching for the best solution now.

Although I know synthetics are far superior for sheer strength, I have concerns about the slippery stuff in a 5-year old FE. It does tend to find ways to leak better too.

Blame for leaks belongs first to poor workmanship and poor seals/gaskets. I've got over 17,000 miles on a Hi-Po 289 engine using Mobil 1 15W-50 with zero leaks.

Z. Ray

4pipes · #13 (**permalink**) 08-19-2007, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clayfoushee

I've been using Shell Rotella 15w-40 as well, but I am told the formula changed recently, and it now has a significantly lower zinc content. So, I'm searching for the best solution now.

Although I know synthetics are far superior for sheer strength, I have concerns about the slippery stuff in a 5-year old FE. It does tend to find ways to leak better too.

I'm thinking of switching from Kendall GT-1 20W50 to the new formulation of Mobil 1 15w50 that has higher levels of ZDDP.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo...t_Engines.aspx
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...il1_15W-50.asp

Excaliber · #14 (**permalink**) 08-17-2007, 01:06 PM

Thats EXACTLY what I do! In my Jeep as well, I've used the stuff for years but wasn't exactly sure why until these recent studies concerning zinc. By golly there really WAS something to STP!

Excaliber · #15 (**permalink**) 08-17-2007, 01:19 PM

Might be some truth in there DougD, like everything about these oil discussions theres some controversy no matter which way you go.

I've heard of several people having problems with their motorcycle clutch when using some synthetic auto type oil, it allows TO much slipping. My Burgman has an independant trans from the engine, I use diesel Shell Rotella in both the engine and trans for my application. I DON'T use STP in the bike, but I've been thinking about it...

Badsnake427 · #16 (**permalink**) 08-17-2007, 01:45 PM

Got this with a Google search.

"% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high reving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high." Check out this website. It gives the zinc content of pretty much every oil available. http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html From the chart the zinc content in Shell Rotella is .12%. I have always used Kendall GT-1 oil in my cars. The chart reads that the Kendall has a zinc content of .16%. Good stuff!

55312 · #17 (**permalink**) 08-19-2007, 05:40 AM

Note the date of that study. It is no longer valid as the EPA mandated changes took effect last January!

Tim

Badsnake427 · #18 (**permalink**) 08-19-2007, 06:04 AM

Good point, I didn't notice that.

I can still get Kendall GT-1 oil here, though. How would I be able to get a recent analasis?

patrickt · #19 (**permalink**) 08-19-2007, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badsnake427

Good point, I didn't notice that.

I can still get Kendall GT-1 oil here, though. How would I be able to get a recent analasis?

I use Kendall, but you have to supplement it. See my detailed thread here on the Capital Area Cobra Club forum. I sent my oil off for analysis, etc., and used "magic goo" to get my ZDDP up to a safe percentage for my solid, flat tappet cam. http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/...ic,5499.0.html

Excaliber · #20 (**permalink**) 08-19-2007, 11:17 AM

Thats why I won't use synthetic in mine Clay...