Flat tappet cam life

[Ant]

I dont really know a lot about oil, only that mineral oils doesnt handle the heat the same as synthetic. I have used Castrol RS 10W60, and found it good in racing vehicles, and have seen tests where it has out performed Mobil 1, Castrol RS is based on Mineral oil with something like 20% esters. Now if you want a really top performing oil that will do a substantial road mileage Motul synthetic and it 100% synthetic derived from coconut oil.
You pay for what you get, if you have a valuable engine spend a few dollars I reckon its cheap on some good oil if it makes the engine rev better and last a bit longer it will be worth it.

Motul 300V Competition 15w-50 in the comparison I have it out performs,
Castrol RS 10W-60
Mobil 1 15w-50
Red Line 15w-50
Total Activa 10w-50

The test is done using Friction Cameron Plint, HTHS, Shear Stability, Wear Cameron Plint, Oxidation Stability and Noack Volatility.
I reckon if you mentioned this test to Amsoil they would say their oil is better, as they alway have the best oil technology .............!

[Ron61]

I have read this thread with interest and all I have gained is a lot of confusion. I have used STP in my cars for the past 20 years and any engine I have had worked on or torn down has been very clean. This is not an endorsement of STP nor to start an argument about it. As for the various oils, go to any dealer here and they will all tell you their brand has everything needed for any application. I suppose if you poured to much STP in it could leave deposits, but I always run my engines until the oil is hot and then with the engine running I put in about a half can and then go drive it again to make sure it is well mixed with the oil.

Ron

[Wayne Maybury]

Ron

Thanks for mentioning how you add the STP to your engine. This makes lots of sense. I was worried about the STP just sitting in the bottom of the oil pan. By the way, I bought some STP last night.

One point that many people maybe over looking when talking about "the best oil" is that race oils maybe very good but they are formulated for racing, not daily use which requires different additives. The race oil is made to help the engine withstand severe punishment probably at high revs, etc. Most race cars have the oil changed after every outing. A good oil for a street application has to withstand repeated warming - cooling cycles, humidity, crud (is that a word?) buildup, etc so it probably has a different set of additives.

The problem we are facing is that many of us have flat tappet, push rod engines with strong valve springs and the EPA has mandated the motor oil producers to reduce the amount of ZDDP in their products. The main purpose of the ZDDP is to reduce friction, especially in an area such as lifters running on a cam.

Lets not mix up apples and oranges. The race oil may have very good friction reduction and wear protection characteristics but it may not have the necessary additives that a street engine requires. I don't know about you, but I don't change my oil every single time that I take the Cobra out for a spin. Therefore I have to use a good quality oil that will keep the engine happy on the street, but I also have to make sure that it contains sufficient ZDDP to protect my cam and lifters. At least that is how I understand the situation.

Wayne

[Ron61]

Wayne,

That is the way I have always did it and if I remember correctly, many years ago STP put out a bulletin recommending that you do it that way so the STP could mis with the oil.
Are you still getting E-Mail notifications? Mine just stopped last night for some reason but I am getting them from all of the other sites so it has to be something here.I have aleady checked all of my CP settings and did all the clean up of cookies, Temp. Int. Files, History, and etc. The last one that I received was yesterday afternoon around 2:20 I think it was.

Ron