Help !!!!Brakes & Master Cylinder

[rdorman]

I use the gauge in a number of ways. I use it to check bias setting, I have used an electronic scale placed on the pedal and made note of the two readings (foot pressure versus pressure at the caliper), heck I once used a fish scale to pull on the pedal. It is mainly for data collection and diagnostics. Teams with tons of data can use it to static set cars up for different tracks. For us, it tells us that things are working as they should and it confirms that the calculated numbers are correct so that we can make changes with a greater degree of certainty. You don't have to have it but it is a tool that I bet most of your buddies don't have in their box... so you can impress your friends with it

[undy]

Originally Posted by priobe

rdorman,
Undy,

5/8 front 3/4 rear

What calipers are you using?

Wilwood 4 piston calipers in the front. The rears are OEM Exploder brakes, on a Currier 4 link 9".

[priobe]

rdorman & undy

Well I have contacted Tilton and they are of no help. As this matter continues I am becoming more familar with the m/c setup. Obviously the 1 1/8 for the rear was way off. I contacted Tilton to see if they would do something for me in reagards to the useless 1 1/8 m\c and they said no.

I will have to be creative on this one I guess.

I have contacted Wilwood which is the company I should have listen to in the first place for their guidence.


I know Wilwood said 3/4 front 7/8 rear but I am thinking 5/8 front and 3/4 rear.

What do you guys think???????

By the way here are my brake pads Poly Matrix

front 15Q-6827k - 7320Q
Rear 15Q6824K - 7112q

I dont want to order new M\C and have a bunch of paper weights.

[Clois Harlan]

3/4 and 7/8 and I have a brand new kit still in the box for a 7/8 (I think) if you are interested. I can check at home tonight if you like.

Clois

[priobe]

Clois,

If you could check what size you have, I might be interested

Are you running 3/4 front 7/8 rear with the same caliper?

[rdorman]

Going to 3/4-7/8 will results in a 36% increase in pressure, 5/8-3/4 in 100% for a given pedal presure. Same increase in travel and reduction of pedal effort. Those pads are the 'Q' compound. Understand that they don't work as well until they get some heat in them. Their CF rises 20% from cold to 'hot' which on this pad is a narrow range at about 500 degrees. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, have you bed your pads?

[rdorman]

Here is a good little article that will help you tell: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinfaq.shtml

Also, if you look at the side of the pad there is a color difference the first few mm from the surface, it is darker. Look at all things to see where you are.

As some one on the other thread mentioned, you may have glazed the pads by now. They will have a glassy sort of look to the face of them it so. You can sand them down (I pitch them and buy new ones) and sand down the face of the rotor with a medium grit paper and then clean the surface with denatured alchohol. Then, bed them properly according to the link I provided for Wilwood. Brakes get better once properly broke in, but, they can get worse if improperly broke in.

[undy]

I'd go with the 5/8" in the front and the 3/4" in the rear. That combo's worked great for me..

[priobe]

rdorman,

I know you have been mentioning the bedding process but I can not stop hard enough to get the pads to bedd

FAQ #2: What happens if I can't do the bed-in right away?
Often times, weather or other conditions can prevent one from fully bedding-in the brakes before having to drive the car. Fortunately, this is not a dire situation. If you are running new street/performance pads and rotors, remember that they are designed for the street and will slowly bed-in by themselves over time. Typically just a few stops from moderate speeds will start the bed-in process for normal driving.


Undy,

I am think I might order the 5/8 for the front anduse the one chrome 3/4 that works for the rear. If this seems like it works then I will order a new 3/4.

Drafting a letter to Tilton executive team.

Honestly is there a difference between Tilton and Wilwood Cylinders ?

[priobe]

rdorman & Undy,

Well I tried the 3/4 and 7/8 rear. The car stops like a champ. Since I had the tires off I took ou the brake pads and sanded them down. I also sanded the rotors as well.

I want to thank all of you guys that help with my problem especially rdorman and Undy. You guys really stuck in there with me.

I am not too sure about the 5/8 in the front. I think it might make the pedal alittle too hard.

But I have to say it is amazing the way my car stops now. I have never heard my tire stop and screech.

rdorman...

Now it is time for me to bedd the pads

1 more item left to complete my car. Webers!!!!! Still tuning them but at least now I can concentrate on those carbs.

Thank you again

Rdorman,

Do you recommend different pads then what I currently have ?

Also most there

[undy]

I'm glad the braking issue appears to be resolved. It can be truly exasperating.

I'm used to a ton of braking with my Z06 and expect nothing less (within reason) from the Cobra. The 5/8" front gives me what I'm looking for. I was so woefully inadequate when I started (1" fronts and 7/8" rears) that after the M/C shuffle (4 renditions) was the first time I was ever able to drive the Cobra without constantly being on the alert for potential "braking deficient" impacts. At least mine was one of Lone Star's turn-key cars so I've someone that I can blame..

[rdorman]

Originally Posted by priobe

rdorman & Undy,

Well I tried the 3/4 and 7/8 rear. The car stops like a champ. Since I had the tires off I took ou the brake pads and sanded them down. I also sanded the rotors as well.

I want to thank all of you guys that help with my problem especially rdorman and Undy. You guys really stuck in there with me.

I am not too sure about the 5/8 in the front. I think it might make the pedal alittle too hard.

But I have to say it is amazing the way my car stops now. I have never heard my tire stop and screech.

rdorman...

Now it is time for me to bedd the pads

1 more item left to complete my car. Webers!!!!! Still tuning them but at least now I can concentrate on those carbs.

Thank you again

Rdorman,

Do you recommend different pads then what I currently have ?

Also most there

Great to hear! As for pads, if it is not broke, don't fix it! When and if you go to put a new set in, let us know. After you bed your pads, get your bias right and you will be a happy braker!

By the way, did I mention that the fee for consulting was one set of webers

[priobe]

Here is your consulting fee. Since you provided with information and not the actual m/c, I figured I can make payment the same.

Here is your payment
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/products.htm
They will be more than happy to get you started

I am so pleased to have this completed. Only one thing bothers a little now.

I noticed the pads were glazed and I used a hi speed 120 grit sanding disk on the rotor.

Also,Hmmm should I try 5/8

[JBCOBRA]

It is amazing what a little sanding can do!
JB

[priobe]

Yes,
JBCObra
I think you were the one that advised me to check the pads.

If not, who ever it was and everyone that helped thank you

[rdorman]

Thanks for the link! Yummy: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Images/Catalog/K9110.htm