
03-24-2008, 11:01 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Glendale,
AZ.
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobray-C3, The 60's body lines on todays chassis technology
Posts: 2,302
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Not Ranked
I have used many of the types on the market. Keep in mind that you get what you pay for and look close at the ratings of these devises, don't install a problem while trying to do the right thing with a low quality part. here is a good source for install and info
http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/...y_relocate.htm
If racing the sanctioning body will spec out the minimum quality and location of the on/off control or knob. In general I have used/seen 3 common types with photos below. My comments are intended to be generic not brand specific as are photos, non race general installs.
I have not had good luck at all with the green knob type as they corrode and connection gets funky, you can not clean inside plates (5 to $1o range). The plastic red handle type are often high impedance or have poor contact switching right out of the bubble pac (5 to 10 bucks). The metal body type with brass lugs are more expensive (30 bucks in Jeg's) but are rated and accepted by NHRA and SCCA. Marine or UL ratings on a part ensure what you are getting for your $$.
If this part fails it can be a simple tow bill or an electrical melt down but all possibilities are more BS than buying a quality part and a quality installation. I install on the positive side of the battery because I want to keep everything on a good ground. I also insist on a very small amp value fuse if a bypass wire for radio etc.. is used, say a fast blow 2 amp fuse and lower if possible.
Good info about ratings here http://www.colehersee.com/pdf/master_cat/t_battery.PDF
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