Which Company makes "best" replica?

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

ERA is a car engineered in the 1980's, and thus in my opinion is a better car than a Shelby or Kirkham, which use the old style round tube ladder type frame (high flex) and are as close to the original as possible. It all depends on what you want. Close to real...Shelby (name brand) or Kirkham. Real looks but modern engineering...ERA. High volume factory (assembly-line) build...SPF. All the others fall somewhere in between, but are not necessarily less of a Cobra. It may well depend on the person who builds each individual car.
Everyone has an opinion and they mostly differ from one another. I'm sure the Shelby guys and Kirkham guys will not agree, but that's what this forum is for. Whatever your choice, it will be the right choice for you.

[ENTDOC]

using that logic, the FFR was engineered in the nineties and thus superior to the ERA. I am glad someone finally figured out how best to judge these things.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ENTDOC

using that logic, the FFR was engineered in the nineties and thus superior to the ERA. I am glad someone finally figured out how best to judge these things.

That's not what he meant (and you know that). What he was trying to say is that if the Shelby name is not important to you, and an aluminum body is not important to you, ERA is the best engineered and built Cobra -- period (assuming the boys in New Britian did the building, that is). The argument definately has merit, but that's not what this thread is all about.

[Mattnshilp]

What is the difference cosmetically between an ERA and an FFR/BDR?

I can certainly understand that engineering (on the inside) makes a HUGE difference in price and quality. But shouldn't they all look pretty much the same?

My goal is to enjoy a "Cobra" style replica that I can drive down the street and feel like I am driving a little bit of Americana. If the front fender flare comes out 10 degrees instead of the real Cobra's 12 degrees, that doesn't bother me. I guess that's why I want to know what the difference is cosmetically. I need to know if the difference is enough to justify (in my case) the added expense.

And, how about safety? Are they all about the same in that regards? Will an ETA handle a crash better then an FFR?

Thanks again!

-Matt

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

Originally Posted by Mattnshilp

What is the difference cosmetically between an ERA and an FFR/BDR?

I can certainly understand that engineering (on the inside) makes a HUGE difference in price and quality. But shouldn't they all look pretty much the same?

My goal is to enjoy a "Cobra" style replica that I can drive down the street and feel like I am driving a little bit of Americana. If the front fender flare comes out 10 degrees instead of the real Cobra's 12 degrees, that doesn't bother me. I guess that's why I want to know what the difference is cosmetically. I need to know if the difference is enough to justify (in my case) the added expense.

And, how about safety? Are they all about the same in that regards? Will an ETA handle a crash better then an FFR?

Thanks again!

-Matt

Visit the ERA website yourself. They have a page that compares several Cobra profiles.

[ENTDOC]

I do not recall any incidents of flex problems with Kirkhams or new CSX cars, and I would not call using 80's era Jag rear ends and square tube ladder chassis particularly modern( have you seen the Kirkham susp pieces and new aluminum diffs?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ENTDOC

I would not call using 80's era Jag rear ends...

The ERA rear is probably the best in the business. See http://erareplicas.com/427/frsusp.htm

Originally Posted by ENTDOC

... and square tube ladder chassis particularly modern...

You missed that one too (by a longshot). See http://erareplicas.com/misc/stress/deslogic.htm

[JWheaton]

Originally Posted by Mattnshilp

What is the difference cosmetically between an ERA and an FFR/BDR?

I can certainly understand that engineering (on the inside) makes a HUGE difference in price and quality. But shouldn't they all look pretty much the same?

My goal is to enjoy a "Cobra" style replica that I can drive down the street and feel like I am driving a little bit of Americana. If the front fender flare comes out 10 degrees instead of the real Cobra's 12 degrees, that doesn't bother me. I guess that's why I want to know what the difference is cosmetically. I need to know if the difference is enough to justify (in my case) the added expense.

And, how about safety? Are they all about the same in that regards? Will an ETA handle a crash better then an FFR?

Thanks again!

-Matt

Matt,

First stop ETA, it is ERA.

The average onlooker will either have no clue to what you are driving but think it is cool or loud or both, or they will know that it is a Cobra (and think it is cool or loud or both).

The differences in cars go beyond 10 or 12 degrees.
Here is a link from ERA that compares Superformance and ERA
http://www.erareplicas.com/427/spf.htm

You can see some of the visual differences in this link. Although even in this comparison some of the camera angles and shading make a difference.
http://www.erareplicas.com/427/profiles/index.htm


The safety difference is this, your ability as a driver. Any Cobra that get t-boned will create issues for the driver or passenger. Overall, however most hold up well. There are plenty of pictures of wrecked Cobras that will give an indication of what happens in the passenger area.

Before purchasing my car I talked to at least 10 people who had owned 2 or more brands of Cobra with one of those brands being an ERA what their thoughts were. I can only recall 1 of those people having difficulty with choosing the ERA product. I would suggest that you find people who have owned or have extensive experience with 2 or more brands. Those people can provide you real differences.

Sounds like you have time to do the research. Good luck and enjoy.

My choice was ERA. I was up at the ERA factory prior to making my decision and met a guy who I thought was picking up his new car. Turned out his car was about 17 years old. I ended up purchasing mine already built. My car is now 14 years old (from end of build) and has no problems other than me as a mechanic. I have no regrets and will probably place an order for a street version 427 within the next year.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by JWheaton

Matt,

First stop ETA, it is ERA.

Considering how long it takes to get a turnkey ERA, I think that acronym is appropriate....

[JWheaton]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Considering how long it takes to get a turnkey ERA, I think that acronym is appropriate....

PS -- I think the wait time is down to around 6 months now.