Which Company makes "best" replica?

[Mattnshilp]

What is the difference cosmetically between an ERA and an FFR/BDR?

I can certainly understand that engineering (on the inside) makes a HUGE difference in price and quality. But shouldn't they all look pretty much the same?

My goal is to enjoy a "Cobra" style replica that I can drive down the street and feel like I am driving a little bit of Americana. If the front fender flare comes out 10 degrees instead of the real Cobra's 12 degrees, that doesn't bother me. I guess that's why I want to know what the difference is cosmetically. I need to know if the difference is enough to justify (in my case) the added expense.

And, how about safety? Are they all about the same in that regards? Will an ETA handle a crash better then an FFR?

Thanks again!

-Matt

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

Originally Posted by Mattnshilp

What is the difference cosmetically between an ERA and an FFR/BDR?

I can certainly understand that engineering (on the inside) makes a HUGE difference in price and quality. But shouldn't they all look pretty much the same?

My goal is to enjoy a "Cobra" style replica that I can drive down the street and feel like I am driving a little bit of Americana. If the front fender flare comes out 10 degrees instead of the real Cobra's 12 degrees, that doesn't bother me. I guess that's why I want to know what the difference is cosmetically. I need to know if the difference is enough to justify (in my case) the added expense.

And, how about safety? Are they all about the same in that regards? Will an ETA handle a crash better then an FFR?

Thanks again!

-Matt

Visit the ERA website yourself. They have a page that compares several Cobra profiles.

[ENTDOC]

I do not recall any incidents of flex problems with Kirkhams or new CSX cars, and I would not call using 80's era Jag rear ends and square tube ladder chassis particularly modern( have you seen the Kirkham susp pieces and new aluminum diffs?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ENTDOC

I would not call using 80's era Jag rear ends...

The ERA rear is probably the best in the business. See http://erareplicas.com/427/frsusp.htm

Originally Posted by ENTDOC

... and square tube ladder chassis particularly modern...

You missed that one too (by a longshot). See http://erareplicas.com/misc/stress/deslogic.htm

[RICK LAKE]

ENTDOC You can build a Jag rearend for about 600-650 HP and Tork with the right parts and rear support cover for the carrier caps. A 30 spline axle over a 27gives 30% more strength. If you look up the OLD kitcars back in the early 80's there was a test done with anyone who was building cobras. The bottom line is that square tubing is more ridged that round tubing. It also cost more to buy. ERA doesn't use there bodies to provide any structure support of the frame. The test is picking up a cobra in one front corner and lift 2 other wheels off the ground. The round frames on SOME cobras need the body for support. These cars the bodys get cracks to the mounting points. I can't count the number of times I have lifted my car either from the front end or side and to date there are no noises from the car being lifted. You can't say that about other cars. Pick 3 wheels off the ground and see if yours makes noise. Yes I know it's not good for the car. Aluminium differents have been tried over and over again. Going back to the 70-71 Olds Cutlass or Buick 442. The center carrier was aluminium housing was aluminium and they would break very easy. The back lash and side loads would get too loose and blow the rearends. It didn't work then with 375 HP and 500 ft of torque. Today the machine work is better but you still have a HP and torque limit to them. Cast iron is still stronger. If you are looking for the best engineered cobra for suspension, the winner is a BDR with cantalever front suspension setup. You can fine tune this setup better than any other setup, IMO. I have seen just about every cobra in an accident except an originial. At Mid Ohio race track at Run&Gun in 1998 or 1999. Stacy P driving and ERA ran off the track at turn 13 at about 120mph+, damage to the car was both coolers, front nose cone, left quick lift support was heavy damaged. Driver was bruised and walked away with a headache. This was a head on hit. The frame was still straight except for the lift point. I have seen other cars with tweaked frames with less of a hit. ERA cars are heavy and solid. At 2705 lbs with an all aluminium motor and half tank of gas, thats a tank on wheels. I never want to do a head on test with my car, but feel I have a good chance of walking away. As others have said the best built cobra is the one in your garage you built and work on. Your money pocket is a major factor in buying a replica. Aluminium body cobra are beautiful but where do you go to get a dent in the skin repaired? The cost again fiberglass is about 3 to 1. Last point, Aluminium is lighter but steel is still alot stronger for front end parts. Aluminium expands more that steel does. I can always make more power to off set the weight differents. Rick L

[ENTDOC]

so the BDR is the more modern and thus the better cobra. I never said the Jag rear end was not good, but it is not modern. My lowly little Hunter cobra could also be lifted at the corners without any noises, and the body provided no structural support(do they even make replica cobras that do any more?), all for a 23 thousand dollar investment. My point in all of this has nothing to do with ERA quality, I was just responding to the statement that ERA was very modern and thus so superior to a Kirkham or CSX car, I just dont see it frankly, and because ERA 's website says that a square tube frame is stronger does not make it fact. I honestly do not know which is stronger but the FFR guys keep telling us how strong their frame is, again that does not make it so. Fix a dent by the way can repair a dent in an aluminum cobra for about 35 dollars and 20 minutes , try that with a glass car.

[JWheaton]

Originally Posted by Mattnshilp

What is the difference cosmetically between an ERA and an FFR/BDR?

I can certainly understand that engineering (on the inside) makes a HUGE difference in price and quality. But shouldn't they all look pretty much the same?

My goal is to enjoy a "Cobra" style replica that I can drive down the street and feel like I am driving a little bit of Americana. If the front fender flare comes out 10 degrees instead of the real Cobra's 12 degrees, that doesn't bother me. I guess that's why I want to know what the difference is cosmetically. I need to know if the difference is enough to justify (in my case) the added expense.

And, how about safety? Are they all about the same in that regards? Will an ETA handle a crash better then an FFR?

Thanks again!

-Matt

Matt,

First stop ETA, it is ERA.

The average onlooker will either have no clue to what you are driving but think it is cool or loud or both, or they will know that it is a Cobra (and think it is cool or loud or both).

The differences in cars go beyond 10 or 12 degrees.
Here is a link from ERA that compares Superformance and ERA
http://www.erareplicas.com/427/spf.htm

You can see some of the visual differences in this link. Although even in this comparison some of the camera angles and shading make a difference.
http://www.erareplicas.com/427/profiles/index.htm


The safety difference is this, your ability as a driver. Any Cobra that get t-boned will create issues for the driver or passenger. Overall, however most hold up well. There are plenty of pictures of wrecked Cobras that will give an indication of what happens in the passenger area.

Before purchasing my car I talked to at least 10 people who had owned 2 or more brands of Cobra with one of those brands being an ERA what their thoughts were. I can only recall 1 of those people having difficulty with choosing the ERA product. I would suggest that you find people who have owned or have extensive experience with 2 or more brands. Those people can provide you real differences.

Sounds like you have time to do the research. Good luck and enjoy.

My choice was ERA. I was up at the ERA factory prior to making my decision and met a guy who I thought was picking up his new car. Turned out his car was about 17 years old. I ended up purchasing mine already built. My car is now 14 years old (from end of build) and has no problems other than me as a mechanic. I have no regrets and will probably place an order for a street version 427 within the next year.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by JWheaton

Matt,

First stop ETA, it is ERA.

Considering how long it takes to get a turnkey ERA, I think that acronym is appropriate....

[JWheaton]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Considering how long it takes to get a turnkey ERA, I think that acronym is appropriate....

PS -- I think the wait time is down to around 6 months now.