SPFvsBDF

[CHRIS DAMSCH]

SPF trans pull isn't difficult. Take out the front seats (8 bolts), remove the shifter handle and tunnel (bolts in place), remove the driveshaft from above, and pull the trans from the cockpit.

Actually pretty darn easy.

[mr. oz]

Originally Posted by CHRIS DAMSCH

SPF trans pull isn't difficult. Take out the front seats (8 bolts), remove the shifter handle and tunnel (bolts in place), remove the driveshaft from above, and pull the trans from the cockpit.

Actually pretty darn easy.

Exactly.....less than a 1 hr job.

[D-CEL]

Bill,

Easier to pull the trans on a BD? LOL you must be joking!
The short list of BD headaches:
Trans tunnel was not removable (unless you have a saw! see the pictures in my gallery)
Trans tunnel tapers so rapidly that the trans collides with the tunnel walls before the input shaft clears the bell housing
Welded in cross member will not allow the tail shaft housing to drop down for trans removal
Differential angle 3.5 deg nose high (did I hear someone say vibration?)
Welded in cross member did not allow for adjustment
Welded in cross member had no drain hole and was filled with rusty black water.

Which part of the SPF is over rated?

I do like the BD at its price point, but I dont think near the car the SPF is car for car.

D-cel

[Cashburn]

Originally Posted by D-CEL

Bill,

Easier to pull the trans on a BD? LOL you must be joking!
The short list of BD headaches:
Trans tunnel was not removable (unless you have a saw! see the pictures in my gallery)
Trans tunnel tapers so rapidly that the trans collides with the tunnel walls before the input shaft clears the bell housing
Welded in cross member will not allow the tail shaft housing to drop down for trans removal
Differential angle 3.5 deg nose high (did I hear someone say vibration?)
Welded in cross member did not allow for adjustment
Welded in cross member had no drain hole and was filled with rusty black water.

Which part of the SPF is over rated?

I do like the BD at its price point, but I dont think near the car the SPF is car for car.

D-cel

As a prominent SPF dealer likes to do... you are comparing a very early generation BDR to a late generation SPF. Everything you have described does not apply to a BDR of this year, last year, or the year before.

In such a comparison, there is a gen of SPF that requires cutting to make the tranny removal "easy".

Both cars have evolved and will continue to evolve. Competition is great, it keeps us both moving in the right direction and the customers are the ultimate benefactors. There are people who have owned an SPF and now own a BDR as there are BDR owners that now own a SPF.

I like the SPFs, it is a different approach to the same general concept. Obviously if you are after a dead ringer for an original the SPF maybe a better choice for you (but not the best choice). So rank what is important and have at it.

The heart of these cars is under the hood, with a $50k budget you will have more under the hood with the BDR.

[mr. oz]

Originally Posted by Cashburn

In such a comparison, there is a gen of SPF that requires cutting to make the tranny removal "easy".

????? What generation? The early cars have less bolts holding in the tunnel than the later ones, but the tunnel still comes out on either one. I have done very early SPF's and very late ones. The hardest part is the dumdum glueing the tunnel in. I know of NO SPF that requires "cutting" to remove the trans.

[Blittleton]

D-cel,

Oops, I guess my opinion is over ruled here. SPF wins. It is sad to say a persons opinion isn't his opinion but a battering ram for others. If you can't take someones opinion for what it is worth, huh oh well. By the way my opinion is the SPF brakes even with wilwood brakes can't hold a candle to a E-46 BMW stock brake. How much was that extra.

Bill

[Slick61]

I wouldn't kick either out of my garage. I looked at both, in additiion to a few others. SPF comes with more standard features, slightly better paint, & a more authentic look regarding size/wheelbase- at a higher price point. But I liked the updated suspension on the BDR, & the slightly more generous dimensions. The accessories don't really bother me. Most people you talk to have never used their soft top. I'm glad mine does NOT have one, as I don't have to deal with all the snaps & ferrules around the cockpit... a much cleaner look. (it never rains in Southern California) I suppose a tonneau would be nice, but I never park it out of my sight anyway, so no biggie. As for the gauges... meh... no big deal. The Smiths gauges are a kick, but I've got the autometer repro's that give me the same period correct "look" of authenticity. There are subtle differences among all of the bodies... and you'll figure out which you like best in pretty short order.

... and the BDR has one of the prettiest engine compartments around. All the polished stainless panels really set off a nice engine.

Authenticity isn't really a concern of mine. I wanted the "flavor" of the original with an updated chassis/suspension/drivetrain. If authenticity is your thing, the SPF gets the nod. Better yet, a Kirkham!

Bottom line... figure out what's important to YOU. Everyone's got their own opinion on these beasts. It's good to make an informated decision, but don't over-analyze... don't buy as an investment... and don't buy for re-sale. Buy it because you JUST GOTTA HAVE IT!