60's Look Paint

[KevinM]

Bill,

I am not looking for orange peel. The few original Cobras I remember seeing in the 60's had very good finishes. Much better than what Detroit was doing.

My problem is that the modern Basecoat - Clearcoat finishes have a "Wet" look that even the best 60's paint jobs didn't have. For me it's like putting bare carbon fiber on a Cobra, it's from the wrong time period and looks totally out of place.

If I can get the look of a top quality 60's paint job with modern paints and better durability, I am all for it.

Can a modern single stage paint be made to have the look of a high quality Lacquer paint job? If so, how do you do it? One problem I see here is that I have to find someone who is in practice with single stage paints. I don't want my car to be someone’s learning experience.

Thanks,

Kevin

[mr bruce]

http://www.moal.com/04_gallery/00misc/index.php

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by KevinM

Bill,

My problem is that the modern Basecoat - Clearcoat finishes have a "Wet" look that even the best 60's paint jobs didn't have.
Thanks,

Kevin

What you are seeing is a complete clear coat without any flattening agent mixed in. That, or you are trying to compare a different color vs what you want in a "60's color". A base clear is the only way to go as far as regulating the true final finish. Single stage paints are just that, the color and the gloss are mixed together and what comes out of the gun is what you get. Even in a controlled environment, two cars painted in a row using the same materials, the final product will be a bit different, maybe not to your eye, but to my trained one I can see it. If you have a paint code for a particular "60's" color you are interested in, I can offer you single stage enamel, mid grade, and high grade base/clear paint mixes. Each one will have it's own spray/bake/final characteristics. Will it be a 100% duplicate to the original car, again, that depends on the car and what it is made out of. Steel, aluminum, fiberglass all will have a different final appearance (even when sprayed for the same vehicle at the very same time) as they are all different base products for the paint to react to.. What you are asking to be your final product on say a fiberglass replica body vs what is seen on an original low mileage steel or aluminum bodies automobile may not happen, no matter how hard you wish it to. Again, you need to compare apples to apples and not allow others to steer you towards products that will not work for you (like the "must have" lacquer" that someone has said is what you must use). It's all a matter of finding someone in your area you feel comfortable with, showing them exactly what you are looking for in a final product, and having them be competent enough to accomplish it if at all possible.

Bill S.

PS: My shop painted 1,103 cars last year with a 99.8% CSI (customer service index) rating..............

[bbrown]

Bill,

I am fascinated by the discussion here, as I thought to get the appearance of lacquer paint you had to shoot lacquer paint. Your examples are great eyeopeners.

Would it be safe to say that a good painter can shoot a fiberglass car (Corvette) with modern paint systems that even NCRS types couldn't fault?

Thanks
Bert

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by bbrown

Bill,

I am fascinated by the discussion here, as I thought to get the appearance of lacquer paint you had to shoot lacquer paint. Your examples are great eyeopeners.

Would it be safe to say that a good painter can shoot a fiberglass car (Corvette) with modern paint systems that even NCRS types couldn't fault?

Thanks
Bert

Bert,

Some of the top flight cars are already there. A painter who knows his/her product known how to use it to their advantage.


Bill S.