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05-22-2009, 05:54 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Rochester,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance
Posts: 194
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Got the Bug
In my view, even if you prefer to wash your Cobra, it's just not practical to use a pressure washer. You'll have water flying everywhere and a soaked interior.
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I agree! A pressure washer!?!?
These cars are not driven off road where they would accumulate a lot of dirt. At most, there is only light dust on the car which most of the time doesnt even require water to remove.
If you were going to use water, then I would guess a 'light' flow of water, enough to flush away the dust and then a chamois would suffice.
Follow with a detailing spray like Zaino Z6 or similar product.
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05-22-2009, 09:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Medicine Hat,
AB
Cobra Make, Engine: west Coast Cobra FRP 460, Tremec 5 sp, Ford 9" rear
Posts: 178
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efnfast
When you say foam lance what is that and when using 2 bucket what are you using to wash with ? and when you are done do you apply any wax or sealers ?
Thanks
Brent
__________________
Brent
Get in,buckle up,hang on and scream all you want cause nobody's gonna hear you over the sidepipes!
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05-23-2009, 01:22 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garage10
efnfast
When you say foam lance what is that and when using 2 bucket what are you using to wash with ? and when you are done do you apply any wax or sealers ?
Thanks
Brent
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foam lance is an attachment to a pressure washer
http://www.everypressurewasher.com/a...sp?sku=CAM1243
basically you put some cleaning foam into it, mix with water, attach to pressure washer and foam the car so it comes out like
Then let sit for 5-10minutes and rinse off.
The purpose of the foam is to help loosen particles for when you mitt wash. Remember, whenever you touch the paint, you're either improving it, or 'damaging' (e.g., marring, swirl, scratch, etc...) it. 90% of damage comes from improper wash technique - dislodging dirt and moving it across the paint to damage it, and drying wrong (using a chamois, waterblade, or anything but distilled (de-ionized water) and/or BLOTTING with microfiber waffle weaves)
So what you're trying to do before you touch it (and you have to touch it to wash it; it's impossible to clean a vehicle, no matter how clean it looks on the surface, without touchign it) is remove as much as possible (initial rinse), then loosen what's left so you have minimal chance for damage.
2 bucket means just that - 2 buckets used in the wash. The first bucket uses a grit guard and has your soap in it. Dunk you mit in, then wash a panel. When that panel is finished, dunk your mitt in the 2nd bucket before going back to the 1st bucket - the point of the second bucket is to accumulate any dirt that gets trapped in the mitt.
I never wax or seal the vehicle unless I'm detailing it. Typically, I'll do 2 details during the year
1 - Very beginning of spring. Claybar the car, correction (compounding) work, polish, seal, wax. The wax I use is mixed with a polycharger additive, so it extends the duration of it. Sealent usually lasts 3-4mths, as does polycharged wax.
2 - Middleish of season - light polish, seal, wax.
I'll usually wash my cars once to twice a month, depending on how dirty they are.
For example, my beater is a black 03 g35 coupe. I'll do #1 at the beginning of spring, wash once a month, then #2 half-way through, then once winter hits I don't touch it from november until april. All the salt, dirt, road **** just stays on it and piles on. Then I do #1 to restore it.
I guarant-damn-tee you my paint is in far better condition, despite being a 7yr old daily beater that has salt and **** sitting on it for 6mths straight with no washing or anything, than 99% of the show cars in this thread that people are fussing over, refusing to wash but sitting there after every drive with their QD wiping it down and 'damaging' the paint.
nb: the below pictures are after I polished it; no sealent or wax applied, or final cleanup.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by STEVE-O
I agree! A pressure washer!?!?
These cars are not driven off road where they would accumulate a lot of dirt. At most, there is only light dust on the car which most of the time doesnt even require water to remove.
If you were going to use water, then I would guess a 'light' flow of water, enough to flush away the dust and then a chamois would suffice.
Follow with a detailing spray like Zaino Z6 or similar product.
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No. The point of water is to serve as a lubricant and to also remove dirt.
Unless you zip your car up in an air-tight bubble, you are getting dirt and bonded crap on it, the second you leave your driveway.
Last edited by efnfast; 05-23-2009 at 01:26 AM..
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05-23-2009, 07:02 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Rochester,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance
Posts: 194
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I agree with Ron! For someone to be that fanatical about the paint means to not drive and enjoy the car at all.
Stuff may bond to the car when it is being driven but if the paint still feels smooth like a dinner plate, then a clay bar isnt required. A clay bar is only really only required when a roughness can be felt in the paint.
When I look at the car in the pictures, I still see imperfections in the paint irregardless of the bright shine. Also, the tires need some detailing. Dull tires can ruin the look.
Also, we are still talking about classic Cobras here and not 4 wheel drive offroad trucks, right?
Last edited by STEVE-O; 05-23-2009 at 07:06 AM..
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05-23-2009, 07:18 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fuquay Varina,
NC
Cobra Make, Engine: Venom 351W
Posts: 135
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efnfast, do you have any pictures of a Cobra all foamed up?
You may find it a little difficult to foam a Cobra and power wash it.
__________________
AC
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05-23-2009, 07:26 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Covington,
wa
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance # 532, 466 BB, 560HP
Posts: 3,032
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by STEVE-O
I agree with Ron! For someone to be that fanatical about the paint means to not drive and enjoy the car at all.
Stuff may bond to the car when it is being driven but if the paint still feels smooth like a dinner plate, then a clay bar isnt required. A clay bar is only really only required when a roughness can be felt in the paint.
When I look at the car in the pictures, I still see imperfections in the paint irregardless of the bright shine. Also, the tires need some detailing. Dull tires can ruin the look.
Also, we are still talking about classic Cobras here and not 4 wheel drive offroad trucks, right?
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I'm in the same boat as you and Ron. If it takes a "sun light and a brinkman" (whatever the heck that is. I have a Brinkman Smoker, but I don't think that is what he is talking about.  ) to find the imperfections in the paint, then I don't care about them.
My car is a driver, not a show car. I do make every effort to take care of it, but I'm not going to those extremes.
__________________
John Hall
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05-23-2009, 08:46 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Santa Cruz,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2613 Titanium w/Black, Roush 402SR
Posts: 4,098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverback51
I'm in the same boat as you and Ron. If it takes a "sun light and a brinkman" (whatever the heck that is. I have a Brinkman Smoker, but I don't think that is what he is talking about.  ) to find the imperfections in the paint, then I don't care about them.
My car is a driver, not a show car. I do make every effort to take care of it, but I'm not going to those extremes.
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Agree! I'm sure that the process efenfast described is a textbook example of washing a car, but it's just not practical for a Cobra. After two years, my car has some road rash on the front, but overall the paint is excellent shape and the black stripes have few if any marks. Save the smoker for the brauts! 
__________________
Doug
No stop signs, speed limit - Nobody's gonna slow me down - Like a wheel, gonna spin it
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05-23-2009, 11:01 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverback51
I'm in the same boat as you and Ron. If it takes a "sun light and a brinkman" (whatever the heck that is. I have a Brinkman Smoker, but I don't think that is what he is talking about.  ) to find the imperfections in the paint, then I don't care about them.
My car is a driver, not a show car. I do make every effort to take care of it, but I'm not going to those extremes.
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All my cars are drivers, not show cars too. I hate car shows and will never waste my time attending them.
What I'm talking about is taking an extra 20-30minutes to properly wash a vehicle to reduce damage (Swirling/marring) so the paint remains as flawless as possible (which is an impossibility, because eventually 'damage' will occur; it's impossible to keep the paint picture perfect until the end of time if you have to touch it to clean it)
What I find humorous is that most people I talk to, who really don't understanding detailing, think my washing regime is extreme and too complicated to follow. Yet some of these same people will, for example, use a quick detailer and wipe down their car every single time they drive it, or sometimes 2-3times/week.
So let's think about this, who's more extreme - the guy who properly washes his cars once a month (I've got 4 to take care of btw), or the guy who cleans his car 1-3x per week. Hmmmmm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by STEVE-O
I agree with Ron! For someone to be that fanatical about the paint means to not drive and enjoy the car at all.
Stuff may bond to the car when it is being driven but if the paint still feels smooth like a dinner plate, then a clay bar isnt required. A clay bar is only really only required when a roughness can be felt in the paint.
When I look at the car in the pictures, I still see imperfections in the paint irregardless of the bright shine. Also, the tires need some detailing. Dull tires can ruin the look.
Also, we are still talking about classic Cobras here and not 4 wheel drive offroad trucks, right?
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- We can debate the use of the claybar all day long, but I'm on the side that says to always clay before polish, otherwise you'll pick up a **** load of contaminents in your pads that can marr the surface. Even on viper (which pretty much sat broken all day long in the garage, heh) I could claybar it after 10mths and still pick up a lot of crap, even though the surface was fairly smooth.
- I already said those pics were after a polish, no wipedown/seal/wax. So no window cleaning or tire dressing yet. The dots you see in the pictures are a combination of polish dusting and rock chips. There's no hollogramming, swirls, or micro-marring on the paint, and that's under 2 500watt hallogens and under absolute direct sunlight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AC Cobra
efnfast, do you have any pictures of a Cobra all foamed up?
You may find it a little difficult to foam a Cobra and power wash it.
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No, but I'll take some when I wash mine when it's painted 
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05-22-2009, 10:12 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Marcos california,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: 1989 KCC from South Africa Right Hand Drive
Posts: 1,607
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I just wash my car!! If water gets wherever ....just dry it with a chamois. Every so often I take it with a floor jack to the car wash and pressure wash the bottom.It is a car !!!
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05-23-2009, 10:06 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Medicine Hat,
AB
Cobra Make, Engine: west Coast Cobra FRP 460, Tremec 5 sp, Ford 9" rear
Posts: 178
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efenfast
Thanks for the detailed description. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Brent
__________________
Brent
Get in,buckle up,hang on and scream all you want cause nobody's gonna hear you over the sidepipes!
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05-23-2009, 10:33 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Montgomery,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: CR 427 S/C, 351W, 5 Sp & KMP142 - 427 SO, 4 Spd
Posts: 2,212
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Not Ranked
efenfast - I too appreciate the education - a whole new world for me but
it does make sense. I am an old dog to be changing how I do it totally
because I don't own anything that has that quality of a paint job, but I am
sure I'll try some of the steps on my regular cars. My Kirkham is real
happy with the windex and soft towels, which isn't too often - love the
patina! 
__________________
Flip
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05-23-2009, 10:36 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC Cobra
Efnfast, I think we're talking two different things here: washing any car or truck and washing our Cobras. And, I don't mean those Mustang Cobras.
You make some very good points about washing the general family vehicle. I wash my truck at a Laser car wash and no brushes every touch it. It even sprays the under carriage as you drive in. Works well. But I have my Lexus gets detailed monthly at a car wash with lots of suds and rinsing with plenty of water. Dryed with soft cotton cloths.
My Cobra is a different story. It's only been washed with water two times in the 7 years of its existance. Bug removal is the harshed cleaning. Other than that quick detailing spray and a soft cotton cloth. I put a coat of wax on it every spring.
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- laser wash doesn't work as well as you'd think. there's still a good amount of dirt on the paint. I could stand in one spot with my pressure washer for 5 minutes and it still wouldn't be perfectly clean - you need to rinse, lubricate, then aggitate, not just spray.
- Drying with soft cotton cloths really doesn't mean anything - if it's done wrong it will swirl/micro-marr the paint. Depending on how soft your clear is (IIRC lexus/toyota can be soft depending on the color), rubbing it with towels will really do the paint no good. You need to BLOT using a micro-fiber waffle weave (most effectivE). not a chamois or similar, but BLOT with a m-f waffle weave like
http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-guzzler-hd-towel.html
Of course I'm probably crazy because I spend an extra 4minutes drying my car by blotting with 4 waffle weaves versus rubbing and marring my paint =)
The cobra is not anything special; it's just another car, but this time without a roof. Thinking it's this super special car that you can't touch or wash or let get wet is just as dumb as the people on viperalley who think they can't drive their viper when it rains, or that vipers are super-duper hard to control (funny, I never crashed mine, in whiteout or in rain, lol). It's exactly the same as washing a z06 or viper or whatever you want to insert here, the main differences being that since it has no roof you don't start at the top, and you have to adjust your angles. Oh yea, and also be careful not ot damage the exposed radiator and block off the hoodscoop (atleast in my case since I'm using Bruce sssssupersnake hood) so you don't get too much water in the enginebay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garage10
efenfast
Thanks for the detailed description. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Brent
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Feel free to ask any questions you want; always good to share the knowledge 
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05-23-2009, 10:41 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HI Cobra
efenfast - I too appreciate the education - a whole new world for me but
it does make sense. I am an old dog to be changing how I do it totally
because I don't own anything that has that quality of a paint job, but I am
sure I'll try some of the steps on my regular cars. My Kirkham is real
happy with the windex and soft towels, which isn't too often - love the
patina! 
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now just wait until you want to start leaning how to compound and polish your paint to remove scratches, swirling, and micro-marring. Then the real fun begins
If you want to play around with a good washign technique, I'd recommend
1-2 big buckets with grit guards
http://www.autogeek.net/5gagrguwabu.html
good quality microfiberwash mitt
http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-blue-microfiber-mitt.html
poorboy's soap
http://www.autogeek.net/pbss128.html
4-5 waffle wave microfibres
http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-guzzler-hd-towel.html
You should be good to go. You really should do the rinsing with a pressure washer, but you can go an adequate job with a garden hose. Not the absolute most bestest job, but a decent job
Basically rinse, rinse again, then wash one panel/section per time, starting at the top and working your way down. When you get to the lower sections, make certain to really lubricate the areas to help move the dirty around.
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05-24-2009, 05:22 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Rochester,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance
Posts: 194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efnfast
now just wait until you want to start leaning how to compound and polish your paint to remove scratches, swirling, and micro-marring. Then the real fun begins
If you want to play around with a good washign technique, I'd recommend
1-2 big buckets with grit guards
http://www.autogeek.net/5gagrguwabu.html
good quality microfiberwash mitt
http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-blue-microfiber-mitt.html
poorboy's soap
http://www.autogeek.net/pbss128.html
4-5 waffle wave microfibres
http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-guzzler-hd-towel.html
You should be good to go. You really should do the rinsing with a pressure washer, but you can go an adequate job with a garden hose. Not the absolute most bestest job, but a decent job
Basically rinse, rinse again, then wash one panel/section per time, starting at the top and working your way down. When you get to the lower sections, make certain to really lubricate the areas to help move the dirty around.
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Ohhh OK.. I knew this would eventually come to the point of selling something.
I'm sure autogeek also sells the foam sprayer attachment, clay bars, water de-ionizer blah blah blah....
This 'cobra owner' probably also appears in Porsche, Ferrari, Corvette and other performace car forums.
Good washing advice, but I have also seen it in Zaino documentation and other car magazines.
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05-24-2009, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluedog
EFNFAST, I surprised you are drying your cars with micro fiber towells. Any towell introduces the possibility of blemishing your paint. I used a yard blower to dry the cobra and it worked great!
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Remember, I said I BLOT with the towel, not rub. Impossible to induce marring with BLOTTING.  (also, don't forget, waffle weave m-f ; it just sucks upt he water like crazy)
I've tried my leaf blower several times but I usually end up swearing at it since all I end up doing is chasing the water around and making very little progress. I really don't know how some people manage to use it so successfully
Quote:
Originally Posted by STEVE-O
Ohhh OK.. I knew this would eventually come to the point of selling something.
I'm sure autogeek also sells the foam sprayer attachment, clay bars, water de-ionizer blah blah blah....
This 'cobra owner' probably also appears in Porsche, Ferrari, Corvette and other performace car forums.
Good washing advice, but I have also seen it in Zaino documentation and other car magazines.
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Oh, you got me, I don't own a cobra and didn't use those links because I shop at autogeek all the time. Nope, not at all
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3nnf...e=channel_page
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEpQb...e=channel_page

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05-24-2009, 08:17 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: Once Owned CSX4803, CSX803 block, Keith Craft 468, Suspension by Tom Barnard, Built by Kris Kincaid
Posts: 161
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Re: Drying
EFNFAST, I surprised you are drying your cars with micro fiber towells. Any towell introduces the possibility of blemishing your paint. I used a yard blower to dry the cobra and it worked great!
__________________
Bluedog
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05-25-2009, 08:49 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Duluth,
GA
Cobra Make, Engine: 65 Factory Five MKIII Cobra
Posts: 110
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You know, this is probably going to seem a little crazy, but I run my Cobra through a car wash. I often get pretty strange looks from the people working there, but it works great. Don't get me wrong, I'm not stupid enough to just let it go through by itself. I sit there and keep my hands over the rear view mirrow to keep it from getting wet. I spent a lot of money on that Mirror! What helps too is that I talked the general manager into letting the car (and me) sit under the big air blowers at the end for longer than normal. It gets a lot of the water out and helps me dry my hair at the same time. Chicks dig nice hair and clean cars! I usually try to drive the car a few miles to get the rest of the interior dry. I then immediately cover it with my car cover in the garage to seal it up nice and tight.
Oh, and the side benefit - huge mushrooms that taste great on a salad!
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05-25-2009, 01:20 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlantacobra
You know, this is probably going to seem a little crazy, but I run my Cobra through a car wash. I often get pretty strange looks from the people working there, but it works great. Don't get me wrong, I'm not stupid enough to just let it go through by itself. I sit there and keep my hands over the rear view mirrow to keep it from getting wet. I spent a lot of money on that Mirror! What helps too is that I talked the general manager into letting the car (and me) sit under the big air blowers at the end for longer than normal. It gets a lot of the water out and helps me dry my hair at the same time. Chicks dig nice hair and clean cars! I usually try to drive the car a few miles to get the rest of the interior dry. I then immediately cover it with my car cover in the garage to seal it up nice and tight.
Oh, and the side benefit - huge mushrooms that taste great on a salad!
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I hoenstly don't know if you're serious or not
I wouldn't put it past you though - I drove my cobra in a snowstorm during whiteout conditions. That was fun  
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05-29-2009, 07:34 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: West Suburbs,
IL
Cobra Make, Engine: Titanium SPF, 521 CID Gessford.
Posts: 338
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Guys, I think there's a middle ground here.
efnfast is correct in his methods, although I think he's gone a bit overboard. The point he's making is that things like waterless sprays and California dusters can be harmful to the car's paint.
The best method for any car is a bucket wash.
- Spray with hose
- Use lambswool wash mit to bucket wash car
- Spray with hose
- Dry with synthetic chamois
- NOW apply the waterless shine spray, detailing mist, or whatever, but on a CLEAN car. I use the BOM which is now called Captain Richards or something.
This takes less than an hour with a dinky car like a Cobra.
I can't believe some of you guys don't wash your cars. That means your aren't really driving them I guess, maybe to Dairy Queen on Sat. nights, but certainly not long rides. If I go for a 100 mile trot in the country (a typical Sat. drive), the car is dirty when it gets back. Dusty, bugs, everything.... Sometimes I get caught in the rain, so that makes it really dirty.
If you spray something on dusty paint, then rub that dust, you are by definition sanding the paint.... This is a car, not a Fat Boy.
__________________
Join the N.R.A. -- Homeland Security begins in YOUR home.
Last edited by cdog; 05-29-2009 at 07:38 AM..
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05-29-2009, 09:53 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Scottsdale,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR 302 Mass-Flo mild race engine
Posts: 661
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Just don't treat it like a baby. Wash it. wipe it down and get it over with...Use that New ""ICE"" liquid wax after the wash..Made by Turtle Wax...That stuff is fantastic....It'll shine like brand, brand new....Dave
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