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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 07:43 PM
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Install an oil thermostat with a one way check valve on the return. From what I've read Oil coolers can fail due to high oil presures on startup with cold oil.

I've set up an oil thermostat that doesn't allow oil to run through the cooler till it's up to temp. There's also a non return valve on the feed from the cooler back to the motor. This stops the high pressure from hitting the cooler coming back the other way from the motor.

This was reccomended in the instructions that came with the oil thermostat from Earls. The thermostat is a billet alloy block about 4" square and 1" thick with 4 connections.

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StreetSnake View Post
70 degrees Cel. I wanted to see it between 90 - 110. Thats what I understand as a good range. I got a big chunk of cash in the motor (from my standards) and I want to make sure I take good care of it.

There has been a lot of opinions on here as to how warm the oil needs to get to burn off the condensation. From my research I am pretty comfortable with the 65 degree cel number, that brings it to 155 F. Anything over 75 cel is fine, Mine gets to 80 cel max, it does not need to be over 100, nor does your oil psi need to be over 60 lb's, You might want to try taping off the back of the oil cooler, Other people have gone the low tech route by sealing off the lines to the oil cooler with cardboard and have have great success.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2009, 03:33 PM
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Jac Mac,
You have a PM.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2009, 07:57 PM
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Does your oil pressure spike, peg your gage when you start it up cold? We had a car doing that and the oil pump relief was turned all the way in and he blew two coolers. Changed pump and new cooler problem fixed.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2009, 10:02 PM
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Hello!! Water boils at 100 c or 212 F at sea level, that's the temp that the water "boils off at! Straight science. The pressure will always be a little higher at cooler temps,so one should be aware that you should not "jazz" the throttle when the motor is cold.
I have had a few of these...replaced with a new one every time I overhauled the engine.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

The last time I installed with hose and no clamps and absolutely no leaks!!! Very clean install!!
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

John
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2009, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHANMADD View Post
Hello!! Water boils at 100 c or 212 F at sea level, that's the temp that the water "boils off at! Straight science. The pressure will always be a little higher at cooler temps,so one should be aware that you should not "jazz" the throttle when the motor is cold.
I have had a few of these...replaced with a new one every time I overhauled the engine.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

John

Oil does not need to reach 212 F to drive away the water. If that were the case no vehicle I every owned would last more than 6 months. I have not found anything specific to cars but written anywhere but anything do with aircraft states the minimum is 155 to 165 F. I think it should be a little higher for cars but it does not have to be over 212 degrees.

Last edited by mpanten; 05-29-2009 at 08:58 AM..
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:45 AM
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I agree if water had to get to 212 degrees to evaporate, your driveway would never dry after a rain, etc.




Quote:
Originally Posted by mpanten View Post
Oil does not need to reach 212 F to drive away the water. If that were the case no vehicle I every owned would last more than 6 months. I have not found anything specific to cars but written anywhere but anything do with aircraft states the minimum is 155 to 165 F.
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