Main Menu
|
Nevada Classics
|
Advertise at CC
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
|
|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
CC Advertisers
|
|
06-08-2009, 07:23 AM
|
|
Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Salem,,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2100 Rio Red Wimbledon White Stripes 302 stroked to 331 Webers Richmond Road Race 5 speed
Posts: 779
|
|
Not Ranked
Rear main 2 piece seal for a small block Ford
I have to replace the 2 piece rear main seal on my small block Ford. Should I just replace it with a seal from NAPA or get a Fel-Pro Performance silicone 2 piece rear seal? Any one know where to get the tool to replace the upper seal? If I am goin through all the trouble to do this I don't want it to leak!
The engine only has 500 miles on it. Yes, it's the rear seal. I removed the starter and there is oil inside the bell housing. I just re-installed the pan thinking that was where the leak was comming from, but the front of the block plate is dry as a bone. This will be time consuming as I have a main stud girdle and windage tray. Royal PITA!
Should I try a bottle of Lucas engine oil stop leak???
__________________
Snakebit
|
06-08-2009, 07:47 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
|
|
Not Ranked
Snakebit,
I hope someone answers your above questions i.e.' a tool for the top seal. Anybody replaced the top crank seal without pulling the crank? Gotta do it on my Wifes Mountaineer small block-ugh and it aint even a Cobra!
DV
|
06-08-2009, 08:21 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2002
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF#0760
Posts: 3,387
|
|
Not Ranked
I have 2 rear seals available...
Your cost is postage...
PM me if you like...
BTW: Could also be the plugs on the back of the block - i.e. The plug at back of cam, etc...
Ford sell a removal kit - saw it last fall - but someone else told me they push out easy - and to use something wood or plastic like a chopstick to push the top one out. Offset the splices in the 2 pieces so they don't match the rear main's splice and add a dap of sealant on the 2 seal ends...Lubricate them when you install them and clean the ends before add the dab of sealant...
__________________
Wiring Diagrams: SPF MKII, MKIII, GT40, CSX7000, CSX8000, Corvette Grand Sport, and Shelby Sebring, Bondurant & Cinema Tribute Cars.
Owner’s Manuals: SPF MKII, CSX7000, CSX8000, Sebring, Bondurant, & Cinema Tribute Cars.
Large, easy to read and trace schematics with part numbers, wire colors, wire gauge, fuses, and electrical upgrade information. Trouble-shooting and replacement part numbers for those roadside repair adventures.
SPFWiringDiagrams@Comcast.net
Last edited by Blas; 06-08-2009 at 08:37 AM..
|
06-08-2009, 08:43 AM
|
|
Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Salem,,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2100 Rio Red Wimbledon White Stripes 302 stroked to 331 Webers Richmond Road Race 5 speed
Posts: 779
|
|
Not Ranked
Blas you have a PM
__________________
Snakebit
|
06-08-2009, 12:16 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Colorado Springs,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft, supercharged Coyote
Posts: 2,430
|
|
Not Ranked
You don't need a special tool to get the seal out. Use a small screwdriver or something and push it through. When you get enough of it out, grab the end with a pair of pliers and pulle it out.
Be carefull not to nick the crank.
Coat the new seal with oil, and gently push it into place.
|
06-08-2009, 12:24 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
|
|
Not Ranked
Fantastic!
Thanks fellas, my wife will be so happy!
DV
|
06-08-2009, 12:44 PM
|
|
Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Salem,,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2100 Rio Red Wimbledon White Stripes 302 stroked to 331 Webers Richmond Road Race 5 speed
Posts: 779
|
|
Not Ranked
Just talked with the engine builder, he recommended the FelPro 2901 seal. The third time is a charm, so they say.
__________________
Snakebit
|
06-13-2009, 08:35 AM
|
|
Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Salem,,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2100 Rio Red Wimbledon White Stripes 302 stroked to 331 Webers Richmond Road Race 5 speed
Posts: 779
|
|
Not Ranked
Replaced the rear seal with the Felpro 2091. The builder didn't cock the original seal in the main cap, said he doesn't beleive in doing that and never had a problem. Every book or manual I've ever seen tells you to cock the seals so they dont line up with the cap ends. Took it for a 15 minute drive, pulled it into the garage and threw a clean piece of cardboard under the engine. Checked this morning and it was dry as a bone. Not a hard job but very time consuming removing the windage tray, oil pump and the main stud girdle. Then I had to straighten the pan rails, clean off the old gaskets, and RTV and put everything back together.
Thanks for all the advice.
__________________
Snakebit
|
06-16-2009, 03:05 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Colorado Springs,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft, supercharged Coyote
Posts: 2,430
|
|
Not Ranked
Glad that worked. Although not technically difficult, as you said, it's a pain to do.
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:16 AM.
Links monetized by VigLink
|