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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2009, 07:23 AM
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Default Rear main 2 piece seal for a small block Ford

I have to replace the 2 piece rear main seal on my small block Ford. Should I just replace it with a seal from NAPA or get a Fel-Pro Performance silicone 2 piece rear seal? Any one know where to get the tool to replace the upper seal? If I am goin through all the trouble to do this I don't want it to leak!

The engine only has 500 miles on it. Yes, it's the rear seal. I removed the starter and there is oil inside the bell housing. I just re-installed the pan thinking that was where the leak was comming from, but the front of the block plate is dry as a bone. This will be time consuming as I have a main stud girdle and windage tray. Royal PITA!

Should I try a bottle of Lucas engine oil stop leak???
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2009, 07:47 AM
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Snakebit,
I hope someone answers your above questions i.e.' a tool for the top seal. Anybody replaced the top crank seal without pulling the crank? Gotta do it on my Wifes Mountaineer small block-ugh and it aint even a Cobra!
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2009, 08:21 AM
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I have 2 rear seals available...
Your cost is postage...
PM me if you like...
BTW: Could also be the plugs on the back of the block - i.e. The plug at back of cam, etc...
Ford sell a removal kit - saw it last fall - but someone else told me they push out easy - and to use something wood or plastic like a chopstick to push the top one out. Offset the splices in the 2 pieces so they don't match the rear main's splice and add a dap of sealant on the 2 seal ends...Lubricate them when you install them and clean the ends before add the dab of sealant...
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Last edited by Blas; 06-08-2009 at 08:37 AM..
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:43 AM
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Blas you have a PM
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:16 PM
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You don't need a special tool to get the seal out. Use a small screwdriver or something and push it through. When you get enough of it out, grab the end with a pair of pliers and pulle it out.

Be carefull not to nick the crank.

Coat the new seal with oil, and gently push it into place.
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:24 PM
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Fantastic!
Thanks fellas, my wife will be so happy!
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:44 PM
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Just talked with the engine builder, he recommended the FelPro 2901 seal. The third time is a charm, so they say.
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Old 06-13-2009, 08:35 AM
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Replaced the rear seal with the Felpro 2091. The builder didn't cock the original seal in the main cap, said he doesn't beleive in doing that and never had a problem. Every book or manual I've ever seen tells you to cock the seals so they dont line up with the cap ends. Took it for a 15 minute drive, pulled it into the garage and threw a clean piece of cardboard under the engine. Checked this morning and it was dry as a bone. Not a hard job but very time consuming removing the windage tray, oil pump and the main stud girdle. Then I had to straighten the pan rails, clean off the old gaskets, and RTV and put everything back together.

Thanks for all the advice.
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:05 PM
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Glad that worked. Although not technically difficult, as you said, it's a pain to do.
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