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08-03-2009, 04:58 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jacksonville,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: Kirkham #570 w Shelby FE
Posts: 1,009
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Not Ranked
Pick up a current indicator off ebay or NAPA. These lay across the wire and show you how much current the alt. is generating (load matching). I have a set of these from Snap-on, don't waste money on the digital ones that may or may not work three years from now when you need to check it again. My Snap-on's have always worked when I needed them over the past 20yrs unlike the 6 DVMs I've been through.  (My Simpson 260M still works like a charm as well)
How big is your alternator? 10ga is not big enough for anything above 60A.
Although the voltmeter is more critical with today's electronic stuff like ignitions it doesn't really replace the amp meter. (ideally you'd want both in my view)
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08-04-2009, 11:18 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lavon,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 3,008
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronbo
How big is your alternator? 10ga is not big enough for anything above 60A.
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Very good point that I did not mention. Goes to the overloading category, but you don't always have to have too much pulling current. You could be producing too much for the wire.
__________________
Why do they call it "Common Sense" when it is so rare?
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08-04-2009, 03:11 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by kobrabytes
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But those numbers are for steady current. My amp gauge, like most of our cars, shows its highest current right after starting the car while it's charging the battery -- and even then it's under 20 amps and only for a relatively short while. If your amp gauge is reading consistently over 5 amps all the time then you have a problem. The amperage running through the charging wire is usually very low almost all the time.
Afterthought -- The hghest amperage might be hit though when the fans are still running after the engine has been turned off.
Last edited by patrickt; 08-04-2009 at 03:15 PM..
Reason: Came up with the afterthought...
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08-04-2009, 03:29 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Cobra Make, Engine: KMP532, KC427FE, TWM
Posts: 310
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
But those numbers are for steady current. My amp gauge, like most of our cars, shows its highest current right after starting the car while it's charging the battery -- and even then it's under 20 amps and only for a relatively short while. If your amp gauge is reading consistently over 5 amps all the time then you have a problem. The amperage running through the charging wire is usually very low almost all the time.
Afterthought -- The hghest amperage might be hit though when the fans are still running after the engine has been turned off.
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Trust me, you are drawing too much power, otherwise the wire would be cooler. When the car is running your alternator is supplying the power. Fan, fuel pump, ignition, lights, etc. I've been through this...
Do you know for certain how your amp gauge is wired? It sounds like it is only wired between the battery and alternator, NOT showing the running load.
If you have a good schematic, send it to me.
len
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08-04-2009, 03:41 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by kobrabytes
If you have a good schematic, send it to me.
len
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He definitely has a problem on that wire, and it could be a faulty amp guage, or maybe even a partially grounded amp gauge, or a partial short on the wire on the alternator side of the circuit so the current is not running through the ammeter.
Last edited by patrickt; 08-04-2009 at 06:03 PM..
Reason: Deleted faulty reference...
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08-04-2009, 05:00 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Cobra Make, Engine: KMP532, KC427FE, TWM
Posts: 310
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Not Ranked
Love people who can produce a schematic!
The amp meter ONLY measures charging current in this schematic, and NOT the output of the alternator to the accessories. It will however measure the draw from the battery to the accessories when the car is NOT running.
Disconnect the R and N wires from your amp meter and use an ohm meter to see if you somehow have a grounded meter. (Gnd to + and Gnd to -)
Use an amp meter to check your accessory draw. Do it one at a time. You'll probably blow the fuse in your amp meter when you check the fans unless your meter is good for more than 20 amps. With the engine not running disconnect the positive lead on the battery and put the meter between the battery terminal and the cable. (Ignition switch on run)
Before you turn on the ignition switch is there any draw?
If you use an MSD multiply your reading by 6. THe AL's draw 1 amp per k of RPM
How large is wire N? Amp gauge to battery?
Does O (alternator wire have a fusable link in the case of a short?
Last edited by kobrabytes; 08-04-2009 at 05:08 PM..
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08-06-2009, 09:48 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary CCX33344 with original bore 427 SO.
Posts: 83
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Not Ranked
Thanks
Thanks for all the replies.....
I finally spent some time diagnosing last night and found:
The wire only heats up with the engine running
The heat is uniform along the wire
The charging connection to the alternator was questionable..I replaced the ring terminanal and soldered the connection
Alternator checked out ok....61 amp output
I will reinstall alternator tonight and install new voltage regulator
I will report what I find.
Thinking of installing higher gage wire as a precaution.
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08-06-2009, 11:23 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF#0760
Posts: 3,409
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Not Ranked
What voltage was the regulator putting out?
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