Wire hot to the touch

kobrabytes · #1 (**permalink**) 08-04-2009, 03:54 PM

Your wire is to small:

http://www.cerrowire.com/default.aspx?id=46
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

I run a #8 from my alternator, although #6 would run cooler.

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 08-04-2009, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kobrabytes

Your wire is to small:

http://www.cerrowire.com/default.aspx?id=46
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

I run a #8 from my alternator, although #6 would run cooler.

But those numbers are for steady current. My amp gauge, like most of our cars, shows its highest current right after starting the car while it's charging the battery -- and even then it's under 20 amps and only for a relatively short while. If your amp gauge is reading consistently over 5 amps all the time then you have a problem. The amperage running through the charging wire is usually very low almost all the time.

Afterthought -- The hghest amperage might be hit though when the fans are still running after the engine has been turned off.

kobrabytes · #3 (**permalink**) 08-04-2009, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

But those numbers are for steady current. My amp gauge, like most of our cars, shows its highest current right after starting the car while it's charging the battery -- and even then it's under 20 amps and only for a relatively short while. If your amp gauge is reading consistently over 5 amps all the time then you have a problem. The amperage running through the charging wire is usually very low almost all the time.

Afterthought -- The hghest amperage might be hit though when the fans are still running after the engine has been turned off.

Trust me, you are drawing too much power, otherwise the wire would be cooler. When the car is running your alternator is supplying the power. Fan, fuel pump, ignition, lights, etc. I've been through this...

Do you know for certain how your amp gauge is wired? It sounds like it is only wired between the battery and alternator, NOT showing the running load.

If you have a good schematic, send it to me.

len

patrickt · #4 (**permalink**) 08-04-2009, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kobrabytes

If you have a good schematic, send it to me.

len

He definitely has a problem on that wire, and it could be a faulty amp guage, or maybe even a partially grounded amp gauge, or a partial short on the wire on the alternator side of the circuit so the current is not running through the ammeter.

kobrabytes · #5 (**permalink**) 08-04-2009, 06:00 PM

Love people who can produce a schematic!

The amp meter ONLY measures charging current in this schematic, and NOT the output of the alternator to the accessories. It will however measure the draw from the battery to the accessories when the car is NOT running.

Disconnect the R and N wires from your amp meter and use an ohm meter to see if you somehow have a grounded meter. (Gnd to + and Gnd to -)

Use an amp meter to check your accessory draw. Do it one at a time. You'll probably blow the fuse in your amp meter when you check the fans unless your meter is good for more than 20 amps. With the engine not running disconnect the positive lead on the battery and put the meter between the battery terminal and the cable. (Ignition switch on run)

Before you turn on the ignition switch is there any draw?

If you use an MSD multiply your reading by 6. THe AL's draw 1 amp per k of RPM

How large is wire N? Amp gauge to battery?

Does O (alternator wire have a fusable link in the case of a short?

patrickt · #6 (**permalink**) 08-04-2009, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kobrabytes

Love people who can produce a schematic!

Disconnect the R and N wires from your amp meter and use an ohm meter to see if you somehow have a grounded meter. (Gnd to + and Gnd to -)

Use an amp meter to check your accessory draw. Do it one at a time. You'll probably blow the fuse in your amp meter when you check the fans unless your meter is good for more than 20 amps. With the engine not running disconnect the positive lead on the battery and put the meter between the battery terminal and the cable. (Ignition switch on run)

Before you turn on the ignition switch is there any draw?

If you use an MSD multiply your reading by 6. THe AL's draw 1 amp per k of RPM

How large is wire N? Amp gauge to battery?

Does O (alternator wire have a fusable link in the case of a short?

Kobrabytes -- there's some confusion here. He doesn't have an ERA, so that schematic doesn't apply (that's my schematic, and remember I don't have a problem, well not an electrical one that is.

)

kobrabytes · #7 (**permalink**) 08-04-2009, 08:09 PM

Lol...

Trace it out... Take two aspirin, email me in the morning...

Fastz06 · #8 (**permalink**) 08-06-2009, 10:48 AM

Thanks for all the replies.....
I finally spent some time diagnosing last night and found:

The wire only heats up with the engine running
The heat is uniform along the wire
The charging connection to the alternator was questionable..I replaced the ring terminanal and soldered the connection
Alternator checked out ok....61 amp output
I will reinstall alternator tonight and install new voltage regulator
I will report what I find.
Thinking of installing higher gage wire as a precaution.

Blas · #9 (**permalink**) 08-06-2009, 12:23 PM

What voltage was the regulator putting out?

Fastz06 · #10 (**permalink**) 08-08-2009, 07:55 AM

After reinstalling the alternator and jumping out the ammeter with no effect, I found a melted inline splice under the dash that must have loosened up. It was in the process of melting itself to a bunch of other wires.

I replaced the wire and all is good..I will add a fusible link today.

Sure am glad I found it when I did.

Also glad I had all of you for help...thanks so much