Dry sump venting open or closed.

Morris · #1 (**permalink**) 12-07-2012, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra #3170

For what it's worth I am pulling 13" of vacuum on my 498" FE, I have a Dailey
Dry Sump with #16 lines to and from the tank. My valve covers are sealed
and the only vent is on the Stef's dry sump tank in the trunk. I have not really had any problems with this system and don't seem to have an oil vapor problem in the trunk. We tried it on the dyno with vented vs unvented valve covers and there was a difference of about 20 HP. What I really like is the engine compartment stays really clean compared to the times I had remote valve cover breathers with baffles etc. The only time oil gets out of this thing is when it is not running, then it leaks like an old Harley.

Well that just shows that being out of commission for a few years will do for you....Thanks for the info on the Daily pump....and it appears to be smaller...

We tried sealing up the motor before and it never worked....and I did it like you did, by closing up everything but the dry sump tank....should of looked at a different pump......Thanks again and will get on it....

PLDRIVE · #2 (**permalink**) 12-07-2012, 10:10 PM

Morris i have the same Dry Sump setup on a small block as Cobra 3170. Tank in trunk (Patterson), -16 lines to and from a 5 stage Aviaid S2 pump, one remote breather off of tank. I have not run the engine yet, but planning on about 10 to 12Hg. and hopping for a cleaner engine bay as well.
They will fit, but you my have to make up your own brackets.

Ant · #3 (**permalink**) 03-16-2014, 02:15 AM

I am now running a 4 stage pump which includes an air/oil separator, this setup requires a vacuum regulator, as the manufacturer mentioned it may make upwards to 19in/hg and I anticipate running about 12in/hg of vacuum.

I have read where I will need a pop off valve incase of a pressure situation, so what I thought was as the vacuum regulator can fit into an O ring thread on my valley cover behind carb, and leave the valve covers clean without any plumbing.

Plumbing the pop off valve from where the mechanical fuel pump used to be on SBF, and if I wanted to use a normal breather for road use just remove the pop off valve, the question maybe is the fuel pump area on the block a good place to take a breather from....

any thoughts.

PLDRIVE · #4 (**permalink**) 03-16-2014, 03:11 PM

Ant

I put my vacuum relief (moroso) in the valley plate and my pressure relief in the passenger valve cover.

Hope this helps,

Mark

Ant · #5 (**permalink**) 03-16-2014, 07:48 PM

As you have similar to me with Reg installation, I would prefer to have the pop off valve coming from the fuel pump cover plate rather than the valve cover, but I don't want to run vacuum all the time so will probably weld a fitting on valve cover to take a -10an line to the puke tank, the problem maybe with the Dailey pump is it spins at 75% engine rpm so -10 may not be large enough for a breather as it may still have a few in/hg of vacuum...

Reason I want to run a breather on the road is the car may do some minimal slower running and I don't want a lubrication issue, and with final break in using no vacuum...

PLDRIVE · #6 (**permalink**) 03-17-2014, 07:42 PM

Do what makes u happy. I ran vacuum during break in, and had no ring setting issues (regulate to low vacuum during break in).

Why does Dailey want the pump turned so fast? Is it to try to achieve your vacuum level goals?

Why do think u will have a lubrication issues at low engine speeds?

Ant · #7 (**permalink**) 03-18-2014, 02:05 AM

I am not sure on the 75% speed, he stated that some run his pumps at 100%, I assume its to achieve a good vacuum, I never intended on running a sealed engine, the 75% is where he starts off.

Oiling an engine, I have read where running a higher vacuum figure there maybe less oil around camshaft and other parts, and cranking a few rpms may promote better oiling....