brand new guy

daverascal · #1 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 04:44 AM

Had a bunch of problems with the 6al msd box. Sometimes it would start other times not. Changed out box checked all wiring and grounds, problem still there. So I pulled out the entire system and put in a Mallory Unilite works great. So next I tried out the trans set up. I adjusted the clutch until there was no slack left. Not enough I could not get trans into gear. The throw out bearing arm hits the bell housing, plus the throwout bearing has not slack between the bearing and pressure plate. So I think I'll change out and go to a hyd. throwout bearing. Seems I figure out one problem another surfaces.
Dave

Roscoe · #2 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 04:32 PM

I haven't posted here in awhile but always willing to help an A & C owner. I've run a Tilton hydraulic bearing since 2000. I've never had a problem and the car still runs great. Take your time setting it up. Their tech is top notch.

By the way, my gelcoat still looks like a paint job. Buff it yearly with stuff from a boat store. Had a bit of a blemish recently. Managed a little crush at the air intake; about 1"wide and 1/4" deep. Bought the gelcoat repair kit from West Marine (3m Product) worked great. I'm at the point of finishing sanding (600 grit then 1200) and polishing out with 3M compound.

Although my build site has not been updated for years (I'm driving the car) it may help you in your build.
Http://www.priveye.com/cobra.htm
Roscoe

daverascal · #3 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 07:15 PM

Thanks Roscoe I ordered a hyd. throw bearing today. I read a lot of articles on setting them up. Seems if you spend the time setting it up properly you should be problem free. I had hoped this build would be enjoyable, it has not, I would not do it again. I talk to a couple of buddies they do frame off restore jobs, stuff you see at Barrett Jackson. They both think it's going pretty smooth. I guess I expected it to go together without cutting and be square not 5/8" off UGH!!! But it's starting to look good.

Roscoe · #4 (**permalink**) 05-23-2012, 04:31 AM

Make sure when you setup the bearing you include a stop on the pedal. If you overstroke the bearing you will pop the seal.....not a good thing to do. My bearing has been in for over 11 years now and about 28k miles. Some of that time has been on a road race course.

It took me 2.5 years to finish mine. When I first started it looked overwhelming but I broke the build down into sections and systems. The whole build just seemed more manageable.

Roscoe

daverascal · #5 (**permalink**) 05-23-2012, 07:15 PM

The parts showed up today read the instructions seems pretty straight forward. Need to come up with a pedal stop so I can't blow out the o-ring. I won't be working on the car for a few days have to get ready for the weekend so most likely it will be Sunday afternoon before I pull out the transmission. I hope it falls in the air gap range of .100 to .300. If it doesn't I send the part in and the factory will change the piston of the correct length. I worked on the wiring a little bit tonight. Lost interest so I started up the HD and went for a put first ride of the year yea I needed that!!!!
Dave

daverascal · #6 (**permalink**) 06-07-2012, 07:45 PM

Ok the hyd throwout bearing is in and working, the guys at Summit racing said most of the guys are using them. So what's left to do, hook up all the gauges and toggle switches, put the interior in, mount the roll bar and emergency brake. I have my appointment for the inspection next friday 6/15 hope it goes smoothly.
dave