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04-14-2007, 01:21 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Corinth,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Antique & Collectable 302, C-4,Ford 9 inch
Posts: 251
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Not Ranked
Help! Mounting front bumper
Same question, different title since I did not get a response the last time I posted this:
I am "chicken" when it comes to drilling into the fiberglass. I want to mount front over-rider bumpers from Finish Line. The front of the car is curved.
Appreciate any advice as how to drill an oval into a curved surface.
Regards,
__________________
Jerry
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04-14-2007, 02:42 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Cobra Make, Engine: Midstates,SBF 357
Posts: 418
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Not Ranked
Locate the place where you want the hole, cover it with masking tape so as not to chip paint, and drill. Use an awl or something to start the hole.
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04-14-2007, 03:54 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Fairfield, NJ, USA,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: A & C, 351W, Tremec 3550. Exiled Member: Club Cranky
Posts: 5,897
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Not Ranked
After masking with tape I used what is known as a Forstner bit. Makes a nice clean hole. I started it straight in and, once it bit in, I moved the bit so I could drill the oval. I finished it with a dremel. Make sure you use silicone when you put the rubber things in. Makes them go in real easy.
Roscoe
__________________
Roscoe
"Crisis occurs when women and cattle get excited!"....James Thurber
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04-14-2007, 05:25 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Corinth,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Antique & Collectable 302, C-4,Ford 9 inch
Posts: 251
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Not Ranked
Thanks Guys!
This is one of the few aspects of the build I have not looked forward to doing.
Regards,
__________________
Jerry
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04-15-2007, 01:24 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: tauranga,
tga
Cobra Make, Engine: southern roadcraft (UK) 350 edelbrock performer rpm
Posts: 17
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Not Ranked
finish the hole off nicely with a file and get a nice even gap around the tube and forget that ugly rubber thing, it looks much smarter wiithout it . may take a little longer to do but hey whats the rush aye.
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04-16-2007, 06:29 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Fairfield, NJ, USA,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: A & C, 351W, Tremec 3550. Exiled Member: Club Cranky
Posts: 5,897
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Not Ranked
I believe I finished the holes with a small drum sander on my drill.
Roscoe
__________________
Roscoe
"Crisis occurs when women and cattle get excited!"....James Thurber
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06-05-2007, 05:01 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 242
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Hey Jerry: I was about to install my overriders from finishline tonight but found that the 7/16 size threaded bar that states in the manual was to big. It looks like the overriders are 3/8 size instead. Did you use 3/8 size or did you try and drill and tap the finshline bumpers with a 7/16 tap. The 3/8 bar seems too small for my liking not to mention that the holes predrilled on the frame are perfect for 7/16.
What did you guys do?
Thanks
Automan
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06-06-2007, 03:28 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Corinth,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Antique & Collectable 302, C-4,Ford 9 inch
Posts: 251
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Not Ranked
I used 3/8 rod. My bumpers are from Finishline. I put teflon tape (bumper end) on some of the ends of the threaded rod and I put medium strength Loc-tite on the others as an experiment to see which would hold better.
After a couple hundred miles no reported problems, both seem nice, tight and secure.
Regarding the oversize holes in the frame. I found that I had to adjust the angle of my bumpers ever so slightly to make them look even. I did this by sanding the end of a tube at just a little angle. The end of the tube that touches the frame. The over-size hole I think helped let the threaded rod line up where I wanted it. The tube is much larger in diameter than rod, so this allows for adjustment, which I needed.
Hope this helps, keep us posted.
Regards,
__________________
Jerry
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06-06-2007, 06:50 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Cobra Make, Engine:
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Thanks Jerry: This is what i ended up doing. I went back and switched my rods to 3/8 and bought a box of 3/8 nuts. I threaded the the rod in the bumper and followed up with a nut locking the rod in place. I added a 3/8 washer and then the tube so that the tube was sitting on the washer instead of the nut. One the other end i added another washer and then the nut. The remainder of the threaded rod goes through the frame with a washer and nut to complete the assembly. Now with the last two nuts and washers between the frame is used to act like a clamp to hold the assembly in place. When its all assembled, the unit is very stable. I will let everyone know the result after my first few hundred miles.
Thanks again
Automan.
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06-06-2007, 07:15 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Corinth,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Antique & Collectable 302, C-4,Ford 9 inch
Posts: 251
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Not Ranked
I love a happy ending! Glad to hear you are making progress. Hope you get done in time to enjoy the warm weather!
Regards,
__________________
Jerry
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10-25-2012, 04:10 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Naracoorte,
SA
Cobra Make, Engine: CR Cobra 3169
Posts: 818
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Not Ranked
I'm in the process of the same thing. Do you drill from the inside out to start with? Then I thought about using an extra long pilot drill with a tile diamond grit hole saw coming straight in, which should make the elongated hole. Without it biting in.
JD
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10-25-2012, 04:22 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
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Not Ranked
I wouldn't recommend drilling from the inside out even if you had room to.
You can start with a drill on the outside perpendicular to the body. Once it is through it can be carefully strightened to the hole to make more of an oval shape. I used a die grinder similar to a Dremel tool. If you want a printout of the oval shape I have one I can send you. You can just measure it easily inside the groove with calipers and having made sure the hole is centered to the bracket behind it and just reproduce the oval shape.
Another method is a hole saw with a pilot to fit your brackets either over or instead of the drill. As pointed out always mask it well and use sharp tools from sandpaper to drills so it cuts not rubs, chips and burns.
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10-30-2012, 03:35 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Naracoorte,
SA
Cobra Make, Engine: CR Cobra 3169
Posts: 818
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Not Ranked
The trouble is, my body isn't perfect. The most important part was to have the front guard line up exactly the same to the outside of the tyres. But now the mounts for the front bumpers are at least 3/4 of an inch of centre. So I think it's more important to drill out the body centres for the bumper first, and then redril the mounts to suit later. I think a hole saw will dig into the edge to much, that's why I suggest a diamond tipped tile saw. Scary stuff as my body has already been painted.
JD
I'm trying to find some close up pictures of bumpers.
I also like your suggestion of not using the grommets, they are so big and ugly.
Thanks.
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