Car won't run in Az...... - Page 2

azfordman · #1 (**permalink**) 08-20-2010, 01:15 PM

It is a custom bracket that Nick Acton made up to use the tanks on the Windsor blocks. The local shop that he used to have work on the tanks did a horrible job restoring them. The tank had developed a pin hole leak while I was in NH, and we patched it, but it obviously did not hold....Nick thinks the tank needs to be taken completely apart, cleaned, and the joint re-soldered.

azfordman · #2 (**permalink**) 08-20-2010, 01:17 PM

One more question....what psi cap should I be using? Not sure if this will make any difference, but thought I should ask.

Danr55 · #3 (**permalink**) 08-20-2010, 02:47 PM

16 lbs cap

double ugly · #4 (**permalink**) 08-20-2010, 02:53 PM

I used a wood spacer as advised by Modern Auto. It cured my problem with boiling fuel. My problem sounds different than yours, however. The engine would load up and stall. It would be cured by opening up the butterflys but would repeat often.
Good luck. Of the 4 cobras I've had this has a lot more HP and creates alot of heat.
John

azfordman · #5 (**permalink**) 08-21-2010, 11:01 AM

Update....took the expansion tank to a radiator shop to have it torn apart, cleaned up, and re-soldered. Should have it back the first of the week. Of course my first weekend at home without the car was not going to do! Picked up a coolant filler, section of hose, and a cap for $30 at a parts store. She is back on the road!!! Took it out for a long drive last night, did not over heat or stall. Discovered this morning when I let it idle to see if it would overheat that the fan was not coming on! Rewired the fan to a switch in the dash and will drive the car today and see how it goes.

Danr55 · #6 (**permalink**) 08-21-2010, 04:31 PM

New Cobra Fever. I remember it well.....

azfordman · #7 (**permalink**) 08-21-2010, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danr55

New Cobra Fever. I remember it well.....

Remember it????? Are you saying it goes away????

twobjshelbys · #8 (**permalink**) 08-21-2010, 07:32 PM

Still happens after almost two years. Wish the wife agreed

Danr55 · #9 (**permalink**) 08-22-2010, 07:52 AM

It changes, kind of like being excited about Christmas changes as you get older. It never really "goes away".

azfordman · #10 (**permalink**) 08-22-2010, 05:22 PM

Ran the car all day today and it never got over 100c and typically ran around 70-80c. Although when I rewired the fan to a switch in the dash the wire I used was too small of a gauge and it melted under the dash....nothing worse than driving your car and having small puffs of smoke coming from under the dash! Re-wired it with thicker wire at the hardware store. Seems to be holding, but the wire still gets pretty hot. I know there is a thread here om fan wiring that I will need to look at. otherwise, it looks like we are in business.

vettestr · #11 (**permalink**) 08-23-2010, 09:13 AM

If the wire running to your dash switch is hot and has melted once it is a good bet you are not running a relay. The switched wire on your dash should be used to trigger your relay and not a feed line.

You already mentioned you are going to check other posts here on CC about fan wiring so you are on the right path. I like to use a AWG #10 or better from the battery lug on your alternator or the feed lug on the stater sol. as the relay power source. The dash switch can be aground source for the relay and compliment a parallel run to a grounding temp. sensor .

mikiec · #12 (**permalink**) 08-23-2010, 09:23 AM

As Jeff said... Melted wiring is a NO NO. Do the relay thing.

Mike

azfordman · #13 (**permalink**) 08-23-2010, 04:21 PM

Okay...so some assistance will be required. Wiring the fan to a switch in the dash is not going to work without a relay.... I have looked everywhere and cannot seem to find one on my car. The Contemporary manual has not proven to be very helpful. Does anyone with a Contemporary know where the relay for the fan is located or what it looks like??? The sensor switch on the radiator does work....so since the fan stopped working the problem has to be with the relay. I could just rewire the whole thing, but no since in reinventing the wheel if there is a relay already in the car. Thanks.

patrickt · #14 (**permalink**) 08-23-2010, 04:50 PM

If you can't find the relay, or it's not on there to begin with, the Omron relay that I used in this thread Cool Modification - For Pusher Fans Only, Though will easily handle your fan's amperage, easily mounts to something like your footbox, and has easy screw-on terminals to work with. That last point makes a difference, believe me.

azfordman · #15 (**permalink**) 09-04-2010, 12:55 PM

I finally got the fan rewired the right way. Picked up a relay and an inline fuse from a stereo shop and have it all hooked up. The fuse was a 30 amp, and it blew out after a couple of runs. Just replaced it with a 40 amp fuse and will have to see. Any ideas of how large of a fuse I should be running? I've tried several local parts stores and no one seems to know. The relay is 50 amp. I have no idea what the fan is out of or what it's specs are, it is only marked with a 12v sticker.

patrickt · #16 (**permalink**) 09-04-2010, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azfordman

Any ideas of how large of a fuse I should be running? I've tried several local parts stores and no one seems to know. The relay is 50 amp. I have no idea what the fan is out of or what it's specs are, it is only marked with a 12v sticker.

A 50 amp relay is fine. Regarding your fans, most of the larger puller fans draw in the neighborhood of 15 amps at 14.6 volts (that's what my large heavy duty puller fan pulls). My pusher fans draw 10 amps at 14.6 volts. As your voltage goes down (like to 12 volts) the current will go up. The initial draw of current to motor driven devices, like fans, will surprise you. It is often three to four times the regular amperage draw. When I throw all of my fans on at the same time I get a momentary amperage in the low 90s. That doesn't last long enough to blow a fuse though (and I use a circuit breaker anyway).

vettestr · #17 (**permalink**) 09-04-2010, 10:54 PM

I went back and looked at your fan and a 15 amp load may be about right but it is awful quick and easy to measure so you know for sure. I also recommend you use a circuit breaker that self resets instead of a fuse. A resetting C.B. is a little more bang for your buck. The fuse rating about 25% higher than the normal load should be about right. A diode on the relay or across the load helps to protect the contacts of the relay.

Danr55 · #18 (**permalink**) 09-05-2010, 05:03 AM

I use a Flexalite fan. Most all fans that are worth their salt are going to cost a few dollars.....but how much is your car worth?

azfordman · #19 (**permalink**) 09-05-2010, 05:17 AM

When I first started messing with the fan issue the one that was on the car went up in smoke....put direct current to it when trying to solve the not coming on issue...my fault. The fan that is on the car now is a used one that I had sitting here that just happened to match up to the holes through the radiator, figured I got off lucky with that fan, but obviously not. I have no issue spending the $$$ on a good fan, considering the heat issues we deal with here. One more question...I am having tuning issues and I am certain that it is with the carb. 4 barrel Holley off of the 84 Bronco, I believe it is a 650. Would I be better off with a new carb and if so what Holley would be best for a 351w, or should I rebuild and rejet the one I have on the car now. Seems to be running lean...stumbles and backfires at higher rpm's (4000-5500 range). I will pull the plugs tomorrow to verify....sorry, later today (just getting in from last night!) and make sure the car is running lean. It makes sense to me that the Bronco would be jetted for less fuel and lower rpm's.

vettestr · #20 (**permalink**) 09-05-2010, 04:21 PM

For your cooling fan needs go back to this thread here on CC, (the Lincoln or Taurus fans) http://clubcobra.com/forums/showthre...647#post963647

These 2 speed fans are complete with a shroud and easy to mount not to mention they are like 60 bucks at a wrecking yard. They do KICK A$$ but you will need to install proper wiring because they pull 28 amps on high!!

Sounds like you might have a wiring issue that is under suppling amperage and burning up your earlier fans .??