Car won't run in Az...... - Page 2

azfordman · #21 (**permalink**) 08-20-2010, 02:17 PM

One more question....what psi cap should I be using? Not sure if this will make any difference, but thought I should ask.

Mike Brasfield · #22 (**permalink**) 08-20-2010, 03:12 PM

Knowing that these cars all get hot on the track it has to be a fuel delivery problem. If you are not over heating the engine it doesn't should like it's heat causing the problem. Curious that ice seems to help. Purge the fuel lines, tank and double check the fuel filter and pump.

Danr55 · #23 (**permalink**) 08-20-2010, 03:47 PM

16 lbs cap

double ugly · #24 (**permalink**) 08-20-2010, 03:53 PM

I used a wood spacer as advised by Modern Auto. It cured my problem with boiling fuel. My problem sounds different than yours, however. The engine would load up and stall. It would be cured by opening up the butterflys but would repeat often.
Good luck. Of the 4 cobras I've had this has a lot more HP and creates alot of heat.
John

azfordman · #25 (**permalink**) 08-21-2010, 12:01 PM

Update....took the expansion tank to a radiator shop to have it torn apart, cleaned up, and re-soldered. Should have it back the first of the week. Of course my first weekend at home without the car was not going to do! Picked up a coolant filler, section of hose, and a cap for $30 at a parts store. She is back on the road!!! Took it out for a long drive last night, did not over heat or stall. Discovered this morning when I let it idle to see if it would overheat that the fan was not coming on! Rewired the fan to a switch in the dash and will drive the car today and see how it goes.

Danr55 · #26 (**permalink**) 08-21-2010, 05:31 PM

New Cobra Fever. I remember it well.....

twobjshelbys · #27 (**permalink**) 08-21-2010, 08:32 PM

Still happens after almost two years. Wish the wife agreed

azfordman · #28 (**permalink**) 08-21-2010, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danr55

New Cobra Fever. I remember it well.....

Remember it????? Are you saying it goes away????

Danr55 · #29 (**permalink**) 08-22-2010, 08:52 AM

It changes, kind of like being excited about Christmas changes as you get older. It never really "goes away".

azfordman · #30 (**permalink**) 08-22-2010, 06:22 PM

Ran the car all day today and it never got over 100c and typically ran around 70-80c. Although when I rewired the fan to a switch in the dash the wire I used was too small of a gauge and it melted under the dash....nothing worse than driving your car and having small puffs of smoke coming from under the dash! Re-wired it with thicker wire at the hardware store. Seems to be holding, but the wire still gets pretty hot. I know there is a thread here om fan wiring that I will need to look at. otherwise, it looks like we are in business.

vettestr · #31 (**permalink**) 08-23-2010, 10:13 AM

If the wire running to your dash switch is hot and has melted once it is a good bet you are not running a relay. The switched wire on your dash should be used to trigger your relay and not a feed line.

You already mentioned you are going to check other posts here on CC about fan wiring so you are on the right path. I like to use a AWG #10 or better from the battery lug on your alternator or the feed lug on the stater sol. as the relay power source. The dash switch can be aground source for the relay and compliment a parallel run to a grounding temp. sensor .

mikiec · #32 (**permalink**) 08-23-2010, 10:23 AM

As Jeff said... Melted wiring is a NO NO. Do the relay thing.

Mike

azfordman · #33 (**permalink**) 08-23-2010, 05:21 PM

Okay...so some assistance will be required. Wiring the fan to a switch in the dash is not going to work without a relay.... I have looked everywhere and cannot seem to find one on my car. The Contemporary manual has not proven to be very helpful. Does anyone with a Contemporary know where the relay for the fan is located or what it looks like??? The sensor switch on the radiator does work....so since the fan stopped working the problem has to be with the relay. I could just rewire the whole thing, but no since in reinventing the wheel if there is a relay already in the car. Thanks.

patrickt · #34 (**permalink**) 08-23-2010, 05:50 PM

If you can't find the relay, or it's not on there to begin with, the Omron relay that I used in this thread Cool Modification - For Pusher Fans Only, Though will easily handle your fan's amperage, easily mounts to something like your footbox, and has easy screw-on terminals to work with. That last point makes a difference, believe me.

azfordman · #35 (**permalink**) 09-04-2010, 01:55 PM

I finally got the fan rewired the right way. Picked up a relay and an inline fuse from a stereo shop and have it all hooked up. The fuse was a 30 amp, and it blew out after a couple of runs. Just replaced it with a 40 amp fuse and will have to see. Any ideas of how large of a fuse I should be running? I've tried several local parts stores and no one seems to know. The relay is 50 amp. I have no idea what the fan is out of or what it's specs are, it is only marked with a 12v sticker.

patrickt · #36 (**permalink**) 09-04-2010, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azfordman

Any ideas of how large of a fuse I should be running? I've tried several local parts stores and no one seems to know. The relay is 50 amp. I have no idea what the fan is out of or what it's specs are, it is only marked with a 12v sticker.

A 50 amp relay is fine. Regarding your fans, most of the larger puller fans draw in the neighborhood of 15 amps at 14.6 volts (that's what my large heavy duty puller fan pulls). My pusher fans draw 10 amps at 14.6 volts. As your voltage goes down (like to 12 volts) the current will go up. The initial draw of current to motor driven devices, like fans, will surprise you. It is often three to four times the regular amperage draw. When I throw all of my fans on at the same time I get a momentary amperage in the low 90s. That doesn't last long enough to blow a fuse though (and I use a circuit breaker anyway).

vettestr · #37 (**permalink**) 09-04-2010, 11:54 PM

I went back and looked at your fan and a 15 amp load may be about right but it is awful quick and easy to measure so you know for sure. I also recommend you use a circuit breaker that self resets instead of a fuse. A resetting C.B. is a little more bang for your buck. The fuse rating about 25% higher than the normal load should be about right. A diode on the relay or across the load helps to protect the contacts of the relay.

azfordman · #38 (**permalink**) 09-05-2010, 05:45 AM

I discovered the blown out fuse problem tonight....there are times when power is put to the fan that it will not start spinning, but a quick tap on the blades with a screwdriver will get it started..... Guess that means it is time to buy a new fan.... (Will be the third fan in less than a month) I will try to find the post here on Taurus fans, but any other suggestions? If I recall the dual pusher fans are quite pricey, so a basic puller fan will most likely be the way to go. Thanks.

patrickt · #39 (**permalink**) 09-05-2010, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azfordman

(Will be the third fan in less than a month) I will try to find the post here on Taurus fans, but any other suggestions? If I recall the dual pusher fans are quite pricey, so a basic puller fan will most likely be the way to go. Thanks.

Three fans in one month?!?

Make sure the wiring connections are not "iffy" that then go from "iffy" to "bad" when the current draw increases. That could be behind your fan failures.

Quote:

Originally Posted by azfordman

If I recall the dual pusher fans are quite pricey, so a basic puller fan will most likely be the way to go. Thanks.

My pushers are mostly for the looks. The puller does the lion's share of the cooling.

Danr55 · #40 (**permalink**) 09-05-2010, 06:03 AM

I use a Flexalite fan. Most all fans that are worth their salt are going to cost a few dollars.....but how much is your car worth?