Service Recommendations in North Phx/Scottsdale Area

[Phx Mike]

Still having charging problems with the Kirkham (pretty frustrating...I figured I would be doing some work on the car but not this much, this soon). Alternator connections good, belt tight, pulled alternator and it tested good, reinstalled....checked voltage regulator connections (good), pulled and replaced voltage regulator.....but still have a) voltage gauge light on when engine running, and b) < 12 volts (and dropping....) when engine running (above idle....in fact the voltage gauge needle does not move AT ALL when the engine speed changes). So - no charging to the battery.

I am not sure what else to check - if anybody has ideas fire away (I have read all the threads I find on this).

In the meantime - would appreciate suggestion on a shop that can look it over for me - someone that has worked on Cobras/hot rods. I will have to have it towed there so appreciate someplace on this side of town if possible.

thx - Mike

[Karl Bebout]

Mike, Jeff Classic has decades of experience and is a definitely good guy. He goes by "vettester" here on the forum. His phone # is 602-402-8504.

You gotta get that thing fixed so you can join us next Saturday for the cruise to Tucson and Mt. Lemmon.

[Danr55]

If the alternator checks good and you're sure it's hooked up correctly, the voltage regulator is good, then I would look at the gage. Could it be that the car is fine but the gage is screwed up?

[Phx Mike]

Thx guys. David and his crew gave me some ideas too. More work to do tomorrow.

[Phx Mike]

Originally Posted by Danr55

If the alternator checks good and you're sure it's hooked up correctly, the voltage regulator is good, then I would look at the gage. Could it be that the car is fine but the gage is screwed up?

I know it is more than the gauge since I am losing battery charge as I drive. Got to the point yesterday where it would not start. I put the charger on it and it showed fully drained.

[DaleG]

Bad battery cell? I had those same symptoms, took the battery to AutoZone and it had a bad cell. New battery, all's well.

[Gofastoldguy]

Originally Posted by Phx Mike

I know it is more than the gauge since I am losing battery charge as I drive. Got to the point yesterday where it would not start. I put the charger on it and it showed fully drained.

What type of battery are u using? Gel (Odyssey, Optima) or standard acid?
My Odyessy had sulfated and acted the same way until I bought a smart charger which will automatically provide desulfation during maintenance charging. If lead/acid look for dead cell. Good luck
Bill B

[Gofastoldguy]

Don't trust the alternator especially if it has "oriental" internals.

[vettestr]

If you are willing to chase down the issue yourself page 2 of this document has a step by step, check (under voltage tests). Bet you a buck it turns out to be a loose connection and another buck it is on the negative or ground cable side.

http://www.cb4x4.com/PDFs/Electrical...%20testing.pdf

After checking connections you can (full field) alt. for a quick test to prove alt. does work or not. look here.... https://reconit.wordpress.com/2013/0...n-the-vehicle/

[Phx Mike]

Originally Posted by Gofastoldguy

What type of battery are u using? Gel (Odyssey, Optima) or standard acid?
My Odyessy had sulfated and acted the same way until I bought a smart charger which will automatically provide desulfation during maintenance charging. If lead/acid look for dead cell. Good luck
Bill B

Thx - it is a relatively new gel (AGM) battery. I say relatively new as it has an A16 (January 2016) date code and was not used before installing in my car last month. It seems to take a charge and has plenty of amps to crank the car. But it is clear that the car is running off the battery alone - the longer I drive the lower the voltage gets.

[Phx Mike]

Originally Posted by vettestr

If you are willing to chase down the issue yourself page 2 of this document has a step by step, check (under voltage tests). Bet you a buck it turns out to be a loose connection and another buck it is on the negative or ground cable side.

http://www.cb4x4.com/PDFs/Electrical...%20testing.pdf

After checking connections you can (full field) alt. for a quick test to prove alt. does work or not. look here.... https://reconit.wordpress.com/2013/0...n-the-vehicle/

Thanks Jeff. I pulled the alternator out - all the connections were fine and it was not shorting against the cylinder head. It had it "tested" at the auto parts store and it "passed" although I don't have data on current vs speed/load. I replaced the regulator (connections there were good also). Checked battery connections and they were good. I have also bypassed a relay that sits between the ignition switch and regulator. Still get a slowly declining voltage the longer I drive. So - either not enough alternator output to keep up (voltage goes from 13 down to 11.5 when I have the fan on and then down from there at about 0.5 volts every 10 mins) or a grounding problem somewhere.

My schedule doesn't let me work on it full time so next stop is a shop somewhere.

Thx for all the help and will advise when it gets sorted out.

[PHMCobra]

I would talk with Charlie Sullens (ASE Master Service Technician) at Browns Classic Auto in Scottsdale. Charlie has years of experience with Cobras of many manufacturers. He has serviced my two Cobra over the years. I highly recommend his services.

[fordracing65]

Originally Posted by PHMCobra

I would talk with Charlie Sullens (ASE Master Service Technician) at Browns Classic Auto in Scottsdale. Charlie has years of experience with Cobras of many manufacturers. He has serviced my two Cobra over the years. I highly recommend his services.

He is also a scam artist that ripped me off for thousands when he worked at Anthem motors. Ask him about that. It's was in my lawsuit

[moore_rb]

Originally Posted by Phx Mike

Still get a slowly declining voltage the longer I drive. So - either not enough alternator output to keep up (voltage goes from 13 down to 11.5 when I have the fan on and then down from there at about 0.5 volts every 10 mins) or a grounding problem somewhere.

Electric fans are notorious current-hogs, and if you drop 1.5 volts just by turning the fan on, then I think you found your culprit.

13 volts at the battery with the engine running and the fan off is still pretty anemic- Your alternator should hold rock steady at 13.5-14.5 volts with the engine idling and ALL your electric accessories running...

[mikiec]

Another vote for Jeff or Charlie. Charlie is not a scammer. Plain and simple.

Mikiec

[Gofastoldguy]

Those of us that got ripped off by him would disagree to be sure. How many times did you work with Charlie on your car?

[Karl Bebout]

Figured GFOG would have an opinion. Rightfully so.

Front parking light? ha

[Danr55]

Can't say what others have experienced or not with Charlie, but I know he's worked on my car several times and has always done exactly what he said he would and the price was always what was quoted or less. I've never had an issue with him. So I am on Mikie's side. Jeff and Charlie would be my calls. Either or. Seems like Charlie at Brown Custom is closer to the area you're asking about and he will come and get your car if necessary. They do their own towing.

[fordracing65]

Originally Posted by mikiec

Another vote for Jeff or Charlie. Charlie is not a scammer. Plain and simple.

Mikiec

Are you claiming I'm just making this up. Like I have nothing better to do. If you want I will send you all my paperwork and you can see for yourself. I'm not the only one who got taken to the bank by him and John. Did he do it for a paycheck because his boss told him to. Maybe. Does that make it right what he did. Hell no. I did win my lawsuit by the way. Only got back about 50 percent of what they stole but at least I can sleep at night.

[fordracing65]

Further note. I never said Charlie was not a good mechanic. I said he was a scam artist. Take it for what you will.