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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 10:09 AM
lal Naja's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Golden Isles, GA
Cobra Make, Engine: Butler Cobra. 350 Chevy Engine, blueprinted, heads cc'd, ported, polished, manifolds matched, big valves, 1.6 roller rockers, TB Injected, mild cam, MSD crank trigger electronic ignition. TKO-600 transmission. XKE Jaguar rear. IFS by Fast Cars
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Great! Oz Venom looks like a cool shop too.

Just yesterday I finally finished the alignment on the IFS & the IRS Measurements between front and back wheels is EXACT.

Diagonal measurements from front left & back right and vise versa is off 1/16" I could have got it exact but it required a bit more cutting on the front frame and elongating the IRS mounting holes and I think I've been obscessive enough about this install. Enough already!

Don, may I suggest that you drill Teds mounting holes out to 3/4" and once the IFS is aligned go the shaft collar locking method I wrote about earlier.

I should have done this right from the go. Instead, had to use a die grinder and hand shape the holes to get the alignment correct. Hated the process! Using the die grinder covers you with sharp needle like steel splinters.

Could have drilled the holes to 3/4" in stead of die grinding in situ, but that meant I would have to have dropped the IFS. I would have had to called someone for a hand to do this. Working alone has it's downside.

But what ever approach you take, using the four 1/2"the shaft collars will give you a positive and perfect locating method for dead on acurate removal and replacement. Not that you will have to remove and replace it too often, but if you ever do you can bypass the alignment PITA.

I know hearing about drilling in to a nice new is like hearing screaching nails on a chalk-board, but that will be the reality, unless some how by fate, your frame holes mate.

Please let me know what you discover. BTY, working on your car in the Southern hemisphere must be a little easier as it's already up-side-down LOL!!

Arthur
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