Wheel alignment

[Merv and Sharon]

I was wondering which wheel alignment settings other Harrison owners use front and rear, toe in etc? Particularly interested in rear settings.

[07cob]

Merv

I currently have about 1.75 degrees of camber on the front with 3.5 degrees of caster. Toe in is around 1mm.

The rears have no toe in and very little camber - say 0.25-0.5 degrees.

I am not sure of the exact settings but this was a general set up done for the road. Would be different if you want to get some benefit on the track - mostly more camber front and back.

Do you fitted a rear camber kit to the R32 back end? Without it I was restricted to no less than 2.5 degrees of camber. Now I have all adjustment necessary.

Geof

[Merv and Sharon]

That is very helpful thank Geof. I was thinking of road use mostly of course but maybe with a little leeway for more camber. I don't have a rear camber kit yet. Where do you buy them and are they tricky to fit?

Could "The rears have no toe in and very little camber - say 0.25-0.5 degrees" be achieved without the camber kit? I assume so. I have too much now I feel.

[sambo]

Merv, I think you want something like this to replace the upper arms on the rear.

http://www.skylinepart.com/nissan-sk...-kit-398-p.asp

[byroncobra]

Merv
I've set up the kit that Sambos' highlighted.
Mine came from a local mechanic here who runs racecars.
I think they came from Fulcrum Suspension. There's a few on ebay as well, perhaps of poorer quality?
Easy to fit, the hardest part was getting the nuts off the old suspension arms........man were they tight! Heat'd help if you have oxy.

[07cob]

Merv

Fitting is easy.

Without the replacement arms, I couldn't get any less camber than -2.5 degrees. Yours may be different - I know some are but I don't know why.

My arms are similar to the ones Sambo has provided the link to. I have also replaced the other upper arms with adjustable ones. With just the camber arms replaced, you will get a degree of skewing in the bushes of the other arms as you adjust the wheel straight. So rather than worrying about them, I just replaced them both.

Good luck

Geof

[Merv and Sharon]

Thanks Paul and Geof. Seems I will have to try to get one of those kits. Fulcrum seems that starting place I guess. What settings do you have Paul?

[sambo]

Merv I haven't touched mine yet. Got the tailshaft yesterday - getting there!

[Merv and Sharon]

How long is that tailshaft Paul? Steel or aluminium?

I assume that you mean this kind of set up Geof:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skylin...item439bc18d36

[sambo]

It's 365mm from the back of the gearbox case to the flange on the diff. I didn't specify the material but going by the weight I'd say steel.

[Merv and Sharon]

Nice and short! Shd not lose much power in that distance.

[Merv and Sharon]

Great day at QR yesterday Geof!! But I suspect that holidays are better. I have ordered a good quality camber kit for the GTR rear through Pedders. Below are Warwick's recommendations for street use. They are generally the same as yours, except that the camber on the front on yours is 1.75. I assume that is - 1.75, whereas Warwick's recommendation was -0.5 to 1.00. Anyway, just checking. Enjoy the hols!




REAR Left Right
Camber -0.5 to -1.0 -0.5 to -1.0
Toe 1mm total
FRONT
Camber -0.5 to -1.0 -0.5 to -1.0
Castor 2.5 to 3 deg 2.5 to 3 deg
Toe 1mm total

[sambo]

Merv, thanks for sharing those numbers - saved me another phone call to Warwick!

Is that Pedders kit just the upper arms? Any more info or links? The ones on eBay seem to vary widely in quality.

[Merv and Sharon]

Hi Paul. Pedders are closer to me here and they have this part from Whiteline. Drift Shop also has it. There is a different part for the R32 and the R33 diff. I have the second. They say that the second camber adjusting part (R33) will fit either diff without fouling a coilover. I was only getting the upper arm. These are of quality steel and are strong. I decided not to risk the eBay versions.

See http://www.driftshop.com.au/suspension.htm

[Merv and Sharon]

Whiteline camber kit is fitted. I had to extend the upper coilover mount a little to ensure that it did not foul on the 'loop' of the new upper arm. It is now slightly more vertical. All aligned correctly now.

Paul which wheels did you eventually get and which what offsets?

[sambo]

Well done Merv. Any photos?

Same wheels and offsets as yours, Mick's, etc. My body looks about 15mm off centre at the front so flares might be in order. See how it looks after a wheel alignment.

[Merv and Sharon]

I have had my wheel alignment and once all the negative camber is removed, they do protrude a bit more at the rear, of course (I have -1.2 degrees each side). The RHS is a bit worse. I have measured the interior of the wheel arch from the hub face to the lip and from the hub face to the spring and there is about 1cm difference from right to left (as I knew). I am thinking that the front could be adjusted by removing or reducing the spacers Warwick uses on the upper suspension mount (where the alignment shims can go), but the rear is more than I would like. I have the R32 rear end. Will be thinking about what to do there. It is fine for everyday driving, but on the track could be a nuisance! I am not keen on guard flaring at this stage.

[sambo]

I've just bought one of these to help set camber front/rear as well as castor. At $150 landed I figure it will pay for itself in time.



Chevelle Billet Caster Camber Gauge w Magnetic Adapter | eBay

When setting toe, a tip from Warwick is to run some tube off the bumper mounts across the front and rear of the car. Once everything is squared up and centre line marked, it's easy enough to run parallel string lines along the side of the car and adjust the toe from that.

[Merv and Sharon]

Looks useful Paul. I had mine done at Pedders and it took 3 hours, but cost was fixed at $109.00 then. The problem is we are always fiddling with suspensions (me particularly) and need to check things from time to time. This may assist.

[Tenrocca]

Originally Posted by sambo

When setting toe, a tip from Warwick is to run some tube off the bumper mounts across the front and rear of the car. Once everything is squared up and centre line marked, it's easy enough to run parallel string lines along the side of the car and adjust the toe from that.

Exactly how the V8 super cars do it - saw them setting one up at homebush last year (DJR I think). Looked pretty agricultural but must do the trick.

Cheers