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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2010, 05:16 PM
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Default T56 shifter query.

Good morning all,
was wondering if it is possible to move the my T56 shifter from position A to position B or preferablly position C as per the pic. without too much drama?
I don't need it as far forward as the Mike mod.

Any thoughts or part numbers please chime in.

Thanks

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Old 08-14-2010, 05:35 PM
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OK, I found a Mike posting.
Tremec T56 Shifter relocation




Anyone got a US Camaro/ Firebird top plate spare??
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Old 08-14-2010, 07:11 PM
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Mal Woods at Warwick does this conversion as well he has some pics on his web site.
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Old 08-14-2010, 08:45 PM
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Yes, Thanks HSV300. And what magnificent looking work it is.
I read on some US site that the overhanging plate was preferred in some swaps and they removed the slightly forward setup. If anyone overseas prefers to trade mine for the position B model I will happily consider it.
This might be a silly question, but do fords run the overhang setup or straight up and down? Are they interchangable in a 'bolt on' fashion?
Basically I'm not after blingy billet, extra abuse handling capability or anything, just want to keep as many things as 'off the shelf' as possible.

Cheers
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Old 08-15-2010, 04:58 PM
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My shifter is remotely located a little further forward than your 'C' position.
It's just perfect for me in the Harrison.

I bought the engine and new gearbox already bolted up so I don't know where the remote was sourced from, but, when a small plastic component failed inside the shifter, Mal Woods was able to supply this part.

I was told by a local Ford dealer that the boxes came fitted with a remote from the factory, as he didn't see it though I'm not sure if its the Ford or GM unit. Maybe neither as it's aluminium billet.

If you like send me your email address and I'll send you some pics (I've tried to post them here and I've run out of patience trying to get them up)

Greg
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:06 PM
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Just another thought while looking at your pic, can you turn the whole shifter around 180 degrees? It looks like you'd need a spacer to get clearance and maybe relocate a few holes, but I think mine reuses most of the original components with just a reengineered baseplate.
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:41 PM
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Ive tested both the Mike Murphy stlye mod and the Mal Wood one (the one that moves it to the forward cover) - A Mal wood one feels like your stirring a bowl of porridge in comparison IMHO.
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:57 PM
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That's interesting as each time I've called Mal Woods they've criticised remote shifters, claiming that their inbox relocation is the only way to go. Bloody expensive compared to the remote jobby.

My car isn't regoed yet so I can't really comment, but after a few test drives it feels tight and reasonably good for a brand new box.
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Old 08-15-2010, 06:04 PM
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Both relocations I think do a similar thing - neither are remote. Lots of threads about the Aussie Mike style one. Again I could be wrong but I think the Mal wood reuses the shifter, where the AM one uses a billet B&M shifter - maybe that is most of the difference I felt. Both work though, just like the feel of AM one much better.
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Old 08-16-2010, 12:08 AM
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Hi Outwest,

The mid shift conversion I do brings the shifter out at the inspection cover and all the mods are internal to the box. The box needs to be completely stripped and I usually beef things up internally at the same time.

Here's where the shift comes out on one of my boxes



The shifter I use is a billet unit and very high quality and makes for a very slick positive shift. I've done a fair few now.

The shifter in your first pic is the standard Commodore remote shift. They are horrible and introduce a lot of play into the shift mechanism.

The 2nd pic is a factory Chev Camaro shifter. Better than the standard Holden one but they are pressed steel so flex is an issue and are made to wider tolerances than a billet shifter so also have certain amount of play.

Think on it this way.. Every additional linkage adds play at the shift lever. The longer the path from shifter to selector forks and the less rigid the materials used then the spongier the shift will feel due to components flexing.

With my shift, the path is a short as possible, materials are rigid and everything is machined to tight tolerances. One of the other thinks I do internal to the box is swap the aluminum 3-4 shift for for the steel 3-4 shift fork used in the viper box. This piece is known to flex and every little helps.

If you like the location of the Camaro shifter then I would suggest buying a billet shifter from the US rather than a factory one. There are several manufacturers making them. Personally I like the quality of the B&M units.

Cheers
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byroncobra View Post
Just another thought while looking at your pic, can you turn the whole shifter around 180 degrees? It looks like you'd need a spacer to get clearance and maybe relocate a few holes, but I think mine reuses most of the original components with just a reengineered baseplate.
Looked at that but not really as easy as it may seem, The angled (oil return??) spine on the top interferes bad. But, Good practical thinking my man.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenrocca View Post
feels like your stirring a bowl of porridge in comparison IMHO.
Yeah, been married too long. I can relate to that.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie Mike View Post
Hi Outwest,

The mid shift conversion I do ......

If you like the location of the Camaro shifter then I would suggest buying a billet shifter from the US rather than a factory one. There are several manufacturers making them. Personally I like the quality of the B&M units.

Cheers
Hi Mike, thanks for the reply. The quality of your work just in visual terms alone would make even a jellyfish firm. That is not to be doubted.
If I go to the front inspection plate it will be a great improvement that I can't reach easy and wont benefit from as there are no tracks near here except dirt circle if it is still going.
Maybe I'm getting old, but all my clangers will be small on the roads I drive. (mostly )
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Old 08-16-2010, 07:36 PM
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Here's another one to throw into the mix. We moved the engine to a lower, slightly forward position in my Harrison so the ideal position for the shifter is somewhere south of the inspection plate.

It uses a Harrop short shift kit and most of the Holden bits to retain that return-to-centre behaviour. The linkage needs to be added and a piece lopped off the end but you should get the idea.

This is a Kenmer Engineering special by the way.

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Old 08-17-2010, 01:24 AM
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This is the shifter that I used http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...ifter-t56.html. They have different bottom plates available (rectangle or square). It fits directly over the rear mount. It is very precise and has a great shift.

Good luck.
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Old 08-17-2010, 02:51 AM
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If you wish to do it yourself with minimal machining and low cost components you could try this, it works just don't try drag racing 3rd can be a little hard to find. I am working on a centreing mod to fix that.
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:11 AM
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I removed the GTO shifter, cut it in half, then made a plate that fit over the inspection cover. You can move it just about anywhere depending on height. I also took out those garbage plastic bushings, redrilled the holes, and used shoulder bolts. The shifter is tight and works great.

A Camaro shifter..or anything from a T-56..bolts right in place. That is what I originally had, but it was too far back for my application.
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outwest34au View Post
Good morning all,
was wondering if it is possible to move the my T56 shifter from position A to position B or preferablly position C as per the pic. without too much drama?
I don't need it as far forward as the Mike mod.

Any thoughts or part numbers please chime in.

Thanks

I did about a 'B' and a half on the T56 in my 350 ute using a Camaro Hurst for bugger all. It wasn't a straight bolt on but not too far off. The auction I bought and had posted from the US was this one;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

The shifter when fitted up fine, bolts line up to the aussie T56 fine but the centre of the stick was not in the right place to get all gears, I could get 2,4,6 but not 1,3,5 etc. All I did was unbolt the alloy block from the thick base plate and then bolt it with the back 2 bolts in the front 2 and then drilling out the main hole and drilling and tapping new holes for the front. This moved the stick to the perfect spot and it works perfectly. I sicoflexed some sheet over the old holes to seal it and that was that. This shifter feels fantastic on this box, such a short throw and strong as an ox but so light to shift. All up it was about $150.00 just a few weeks ago.

Unfortunately its all in the car now with cover plate and carpet over or I'd take a photo.
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Old 08-17-2010, 03:01 PM
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Thanks for the interesting and varied options supplied guys.

Gives me plenty of options to consider.
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