Welcome to Club Cobra! The World's largest
non biased Shelby Cobra related site!
- » Representation from nearly all
Cobra/Daytona/GT40 manufacturers
- » Help from all over the world for your
questions
- » Build logs for you and all members
- » Blogs
- » Image Gallery
- » Many thousands of members and nearly 1
million posts!
YES! I want to register an account for free right now!
p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show
Main Menu
|
Nevada Classics
|
Advertise at CC
|
April 2024
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
|
|
|
|
|
CC Advertisers
|
|
04-18-2011, 10:55 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: HARRISON, FORD 302, SOLD
Posts: 771
|
|
Not Ranked
best adhesive
Fellas
I stuck the aluminium side vents on my car to the body with a bit of folded ally and sikaflex but it's not holding real well to the glass (sticks real well to the aluminium)
My next try was going to be 'hairy bog' ie a glass epoxy filler.......any better ideas?
G
|
-
Advertising
04-18-2011, 11:05 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
|
|
Not Ranked
I would glass in the alloy brackets to the body work.
Not just with the "hairy bog" (Gorilla snot) but instead with fiberglass sheet and resin.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
---------------------------------------------
Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
|
04-19-2011, 01:21 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sunshine Coast Qld,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison # 80; Ford 5.0L HO Trickflow heads, cam and rockers and MassFlow EFI
Posts: 3,482
|
|
Not Ranked
That's what I did Greg after a few attempts with the Sikaflex with the same results that you seem to be having.
__________________
Merv
Ford Cobra
Harrison #80.
Peregian Beach
Sunshine Coast Qld.
|
04-19-2011, 01:33 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: RCM, Jag front and rear, LS3
Posts: 1,640
|
|
Not Ranked
Its interesting that you are having trouble with the sikaflex.
What type did you use? Did glue it so there was room for the glue and not clamped tight?
I glued my door skins on to the intrusion bars sikaflex. I redid the doors a couple of weeks ago and there was a dab of sikaflex i had to remove. The only way i could get it off was with the grinder it bonded so well.
Glassing in would be best for that application. Dont use to much though or the body may warp where the fibreglass is.
|
04-19-2011, 02:44 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Newcastle, Warners Bay,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: RMC . 393 Dart alloy block Stroked 351 alloy heads ..all the goodies plus a pre oiler. al
Posts: 1,495
|
|
Not Ranked
Boxhead Gorilla snot is contact glue....yellow and sticky ! Gorilla hair is the bog stuff. I wouldn't 'glue' the vents in. In case you might have to remove them for some reason or other. What about self tappers or nutserts . I think the original cobra vents were riveted in. That might be a good alternative as well.
|
04-19-2011, 02:55 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Near Emerald,
Qld
Cobra Make, Engine: Evans kit, 6 litre, 6 speed, Jag F/R,
Posts: 365
|
|
Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zedn
Glassing in would be best for that application. Dont use to much though or the body may warp where the fibreglass is.
|
I am told the warping occurs when the next coat of glass/ resin is too HOT.
When glassing gradually reduce the MEKP in the next layer to prevent bunching. IE, if you start with 2.5% MEKP the next layer should be 2%, then 1.5% etc. (or use .25's if you like). The main thing is not to increase the MEKP above what was used in previous layers.
Glass the brackets and screw or rivet the actual vents will be the way I go. In my case I want to be able to remove the vents for ease of service/ removal of brake lines going to the M/cyl and it's way easier for me to get to the solenoid wire through the vent hole.
__________________
Missed my Cobra budget by thaaaat much.
Ya get that on big jobs.
|
04-19-2011, 02:59 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: HARRISON, FORD 302, SOLD
Posts: 771
|
|
Not Ranked
I'm thinking that maybe I didn't clean off the waxy stuff from the glass
to get a good bond.
Don't really want more holes in the body with screws etc and getting in there now with resin and cloth would be difficult. Thanks for the ideas though.....
Might try again with a good primer first.
What ended up sticking merv?
Greg
|
04-19-2011, 03:03 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Near Emerald,
Qld
Cobra Make, Engine: Evans kit, 6 litre, 6 speed, Jag F/R,
Posts: 365
|
|
Not Ranked
Ahh, the old waxed resin trick,
Resin has wax added so it isn't sticky when dried. When it is fresh (or green if you like) it can be glassed over though.
When it has cured properly you must grind or aggresively sand it then clean thoroughly with acetone to avoid seperation.
__________________
Missed my Cobra budget by thaaaat much.
Ya get that on big jobs.
|
04-19-2011, 03:09 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: HARRISON, FORD 302, SOLD
Posts: 771
|
|
Not Ranked
Ok, I'll sand first......that'll save me another tube of sika. Bloody stuff doesn't last too long after you open it...
Thanks
|
04-19-2011, 04:19 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sunshine Coast Qld,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison # 80; Ford 5.0L HO Trickflow heads, cam and rockers and MassFlow EFI
Posts: 3,482
|
|
Not Ranked
Greg, I glassed the ally in and then just screwed the vents in with small screws top and bottom.
__________________
Merv
Ford Cobra
Harrison #80.
Peregian Beach
Sunshine Coast Qld.
|
04-19-2011, 05:33 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Melbourne,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival CR 3505, LS1, T56 6 Speed, VE 3.45 LSD Rear, 6 Spot AP Fronts, 4 Spot Wilwood Rears
Posts: 1,121
|
|
Not Ranked
I used sikaflex on my aluminium angle brackets (with nutserts) for my side vents. Has held pretty good. Even used it to stick on the front Brake vent grilles, worked a treat.
Must have been lucky as I didnt do any special prep.
You're right though, the tube goes off pretty quick.
Rgds
Gregg
|
04-19-2011, 06:40 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Gold Coast,
AUS
Cobra Make, Engine: Wish I had my own PACE 427
Posts: 2,145
|
|
Not Ranked
Make sure it is the adhesive type of Sikaflex.
My guys ensure they don't use it in big blobs on our adhesive jobs, use the traditional builders "W" type pattern so that you get plenty of surface area for it to cure.
We also do not stress for quite a few days, even leaving it a week to fully cure. It can take a long time to fully cure if conditions are not great.
Certainly wouldn't hurt to also score the surface with rough sand paper to help with adhesion.
Normally the problem is getting the glued item back off. The only way of removal is to saw your way through the Sikaflex.
We use Sikaflex to hold large oil coolers onto body panels.
|
04-19-2011, 09:21 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Ashburton, New Zealand,
..
Cobra Make, Engine: UK Ram SC. KC-Yates 373, Jerico 5 speed.
Posts: 1,240
|
|
Not Ranked
best adhesive
The side louvers I think used a cheesehead machine screw to hold the louver to the angle brackets. On a fibreglass car either glass the brackets on with polyester resin and csm matt or cloth sanding the area well, or use epoxy resing and csm matt or cloth, epoxy is a stronger adhesive compared to polyester resin.
__________________
A J. Newton
The 1960's rocked!
|
04-19-2011, 12:37 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
|
|
Not Ranked
Different expansion rates will cause issues between the aluminum and fiberglass. Best solution is to use a flexible Structural adhesive such as something made by Lord or 3M. They are 2 part, often able to be used with a caluking type gun or similar on a smaller scale. Working time can be up to an hour or as little as 5 minutes. Find it a a Paint & Body Shop supply shop. This is how they bond the various parts of a Corvette together. Finished product is generally stronger than the parent material.
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way
|
04-19-2011, 01:53 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Palm Beach,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrisons # 62 302 T5
Posts: 474
|
|
Not Ranked
Greg
Quote:
Originally Posted by 400TT
Make sure it is the adhesive type of Sikaflex.
|
This is the key as well as having a sufficiently rough surface. Sika make a number of caulking products as well as glues. The adhesive type is 11FC. Great for a number of Cobra applications.
Cheers
Geof
__________________
Original? Must be. It's the only one I've ever built.
|
04-19-2011, 02:55 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Melbourne,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison, 6.0L Chev
Posts: 2,513
|
|
Not Ranked
Thanks Geof, I've added that to the Easter shopping list!
|
04-19-2011, 08:04 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Ashburton, New Zealand,
..
Cobra Make, Engine: UK Ram SC. KC-Yates 373, Jerico 5 speed.
Posts: 1,240
|
|
Not Ranked
best adhesive
A simple way is to drill holes in the mounting face of the angle brackets, rough them up and cover with glass matt etc, so the bracket is encased in resin etc and has resin right through the holes eg 1/4" holes, and wont fall off.
Aluminium and fibreglass arent really compatible unless you do the above which is only one way, there have been some excellent tips in this post on professional products eg used in corvette manufacture. Aluminium is often used in boat building etc as a mould because fibreglass doesnt stick to it.
Another way would be to glass up some angle brackets between two pieces of alloy 90 angle space them the required thickness and then you have a bracket of the same material as a glass cobra!
__________________
A J. Newton
The 1960's rocked!
|
04-19-2011, 09:17 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sydney,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival 3506
Posts: 198
|
|
Not Ranked
Plastibond sticks like Sh#t to a blanket.
|
04-19-2011, 11:55 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Palm Beach,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrisons # 62 302 T5
Posts: 474
|
|
Not Ranked
Adhesives
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrefry
Plastibond sticks like Sh#t to a blanket.
|
A turer work has never been spoken.
My dad introduced me to Plastibond a couple of years ago. Now I buy it in bulk as it has so many applications. And it goes off like a rocket. Very similar to body filler.
The other glue I really like is JB Weld. It sticks like ... Plastibond. Probably not much good for the side vents though.
Geof
__________________
Original? Must be. It's the only one I've ever built.
|
04-20-2011, 05:34 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alexander,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: B&B 427 Stroked Windsor TKO 600 w/3.50 posi 9"
Posts: 789
|
|
Not Ranked
I used Evercoat Maxim urethane adhesive.
Larry's Home Page
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:46 AM.
|
|