Hi Scoob,
The castor shims will be in there - if they were not you would have about 5mm of forward/backward slop in the top A-arm! They are a standard part of Ian's custom front-end.
quote from the build-manual:
NOTE: The shims ( 5 mm ) control the adjustment for castor. As the bush is offset, reversing the arm will also change the castor.
The arm should be mounted as shown, with the large section of the bushes to the front of the vehicle.
you should start alignment for bump-steer with the shims forward of the bush. Together with the large end of bush at the front, this places the A-arm in the most rearward position.
The lower ball joints are wrong as Dave has pointed out - wrong taper for the knuckle and potentially dangerous in my opinion - you need to get a custom one from Howe Racing that fits the A-arm socket and is correct for the knuckle.
The tie-rod ends are a similar story - it is the correct taper angle but has a difference in diameter and does not seat all the way in to the knuckle. You should use VZ (not VP) tie-rod ends, but these don't match the tie-rods so you need to swap these out for shortened VZ ones - this tie-rod dilemma sounds harder to fix that it really is.
The last one is the rod-ends in the upper control arm. The one supplied is a QA1 pressed-in manufacture, very strong, but even when brand new it has 0.5 - 1mm of "slop" in it which can be felt by hand. My solution was to swap these out for QA1 Endura combination teflon/kevlar injected versions, even stronger, and no slop, ever.
happy to give you more info on this anytime.
you can see the shims etc in the video I made of the front-end assembly;
http://youtu.be/ZHrPwk3RURs
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