Coolant.

[Mando]

I started the new motor in the cobra yesterday after 14 months. It started after a few goes and ran beautifully until the block warmed up.
I'm going to put the coolant in this week which is "Evan's Waterless Coolant" and was wondering if anyone had used this product in any of their cars?

Regards.

[itempany]

Seen it advertised but don't know of any one using it though.

[guye]

Ditto. Keen to hear what you think.

[renovationinnov]

mando
I've got a few guys that run in formula ford & v open wheelers that run Evans waterless I ask the question tomorrow & then we will all know
rob

[Joey.S]

Originally Posted by Mando

I started the new motor in the cobra yesterday after 14 months. It started after a few goes and ran beautifully until the block warmed up.
I'm going to put the coolant in this week which is "Evan's Waterless Coolant" and was wondering if anyone had used this product in any of their cars?

Regards.

I have Evan's coolant in my Cobra and I think it's a great coolant. It was installed last year and still looks like brand new. It does not build up pressure like regular antifreeze (I'm using a 3lb rad cap) and also does not cause any rust or corrosion in the system which is a great thing because the car sits all winter. I will also be installing Evan's in my old T bird.

Joe

[Karl Bebout]

I run Evans and am happy with it. It is imperative to remove ALL water from the entire system, before installing it. I, of course drained my cooling system. Removed the thermostat, pulled the block water jacket plugs, and then attached my shop vacuum to the water inlet, reversed to blower, and blew high pressure air through everything for several hours, spaced out over three days. Figured I'd make every effort since I was spending about $40/gal. The engine still runs plenty hot (230*-240* F), but now I don't worry about it. Evans was my last resort, after numerous efforts including different thermostats, no thermostat, water wetter, new, huge radiator with super fan and shroud, larger crank pulley, head gaskets, disassembled the water pump to ensure the impeller was not spinning on the shaft, smooth bore radiator hoses, timing and jetting changes, different gauge and sending unit. I'm totally stumped so went with Evans and now don't worry about it. (at least not as much and don't have any puking)

[Mando]

Thanks for the replies.
Joey/Karlos, how did you deal with the scaling in your radiator before installing the coolant? The guy that sold me the stuff recommends using another Evans product to remove any water from the system and scaling in the radiator. Water is not an issue since it has a new motor and new hoses throughout but the scaling aspect is always on the back of my mind.

Regards.

[750hp]

Mando, not sure if you saw the interview with the Evans rep on TV a couple of months ago (Gasolene or Man & Machine). He recommended using the Evans cleaner in all instances. The article was obviously a paid "advertorial", but it was a pretty convincing sales pitch. I'm about to try it in my Chevelle, which always runs hotter than I'd like. It will be interesting to see if a simple liquid can overcome a poorly designed/executed cooling system!

[Karl Bebout]

Mando, I didn't use any sort of cleaner before I dried out my cooling system. The block had very recently been tanked and the radiator was less than 6 months old. Too late now, I'm not going to drain, flush, and dry but rather hope its all good. I can't speculate one way or the other so I'd just tell you to do what makes you comfortable with the project. I'd never given scaling a thought, since everything was so new, but now you've but the bug in my ear.....Thanks a lot! ha.

[bobcowan]

Be carefull that you use this stuff within it's design parameters. And Karl states exactly what I'm talking about.

If you read through the test materials, you'll discover the EWC does 2 important things. First, it's boiling point >375*. Boiling point for a decent antifreeze mix under pressure is something like 240*'ish.

Second, It doesn't vaporize and expand as it gets hot, so it doesn't develop pressure. Even at 300* it won't pressurize the system and pop the cap - or anything else.

Those are some very nice features, and can really help prevent some problems. Makes for a great safety margin, I think.

What it apparently does not do, is transfer heat significantly better than a 25% antifreeze mix. If it does I couldn't find that data. And Karl proves that it does not in our application. And that's the primary function of the coolant, transferrign

BUT... take a look at what Karl said. It still gets to the same temp, it just doesn't boil over any more. Well, IMO, that's only made the situation worse instead of better. Now it still runs at 240*, but he doesn't worry about it. Well, I would! You're decreasing performance, efficiency, and longevity. Running an engine that hot all the time is not good.

[Joey.S]

Originally Posted by Mando

Thanks for the replies.
Joey/Karlos, how did you deal with the scaling in your radiator before installing the coolant? The guy that sold me the stuff recommends using another Evans product to remove any water from the system and scaling in the radiator. Water is not an issue since it has a new motor and new hoses throughout but the scaling aspect is always on the back of my mind.

Regards.

When I installed the Evans the engine, rad, hoses etc...were all brand new so I did not use anything before installing the Evans.

Joe

[Russell9318]

Originally Posted by Mando

Thanks for the replies.
Joey/Karlos, how did you deal with the scaling in your radiator before installing the coolant? The guy that sold me the stuff recommends using another Evans product to remove any water from the system and scaling in the radiator. Water is not an issue since it has a new motor and new hoses throughout but the scaling aspect is always on the back of my mind.

Regards.

Mando, to remove scale and rust deposits in cast iron engines there is an Australian product dating from the 1950,s called T-K Rust and Sludge Eliminator designed specifically for this purpose. Those that have been around that long will remember it as Cabec Rust and Sludge Eliminator.

Before I go any further, I must out myself and disclose that I am heavily involved with the manufacturer of this product and the purpose of my response is to contribute to the topic and be of assistance.

More info here Service Equipment : Chemicals : TK Radiator Rust & Sludge Eliminator : Precision Tools - Product Details

If you want to know more, I am only too happy to help in any way.

Cheers

Russell

[Mando]

750hp, I'm probably going to install the coolant before you get into your Chevelle but when you do I'd like to know how you went with the whole process.

Russell 9318, the areas of most concern are the heater and radiator, both having travelled around 800kms [mainly on a dyno]. The rest of the system including all the hoses and the motor are new.

Regards.

[Mando]

Can anyone who has installed Evans coolant let me know if they changed their radiator cap at the same time? According to their instructions the cap should be 7lbs for radiators with a cross flow system and a 13lb cap with a top/bottom system.
What I don't understand is if the coolant doesn't boil or overheat does this render the overflow tank void?
The instructions also go on to state;
"For applications where 7lb cap is not available or cap location is on the pressure side of the cooling system, the standard cap may be used".

Would you describe this to be the setup on a 289/302 with a Harrison overflow tank? I can't load pictures but you can see my setup in my gallery.

Regards.

[leroy17]

I..................never.....................get.. ...................tired.......................of. ....................that..................engine.. ...............bay.

[Joey.S]

Originally Posted by Mando

Can anyone who has installed Evans coolant let me know if they changed their radiator cap at the same time? According to their instructions the cap should be 7lbs for radiators with a cross flow system and a 13lb cap with a top/bottom system.
What I don't understand is if the coolant doesn't boil or overheat does this render the overflow tank void?
The instructions also go on to state;
"For applications where 7lb cap is not available or cap location is on the pressure side of the cooling system, the standard cap may be used".

Would you describe this to be the setup on a 289/302 with a Harrison overflow tank? I can't load pictures but you can see my setup in my gallery.

Regards.

I have the degas tank on my engine,I just replaced the 13lb cap with a 7lb cap and the engine never spit a drop of coolant in the overflow. As long as you have no air in the system you will not build up much pressure for example I can drive the car for an hour running at 190deg come home and remove the rad cap with out a drop off coolant coming out and the hoses are soft.

[Mando]

Thanks Leroy17.
Joey.S, I'll get a 7lb cap and see what happens.

Regards.