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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2015, 04:26 AM
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I just noticed that there aren't any washers on the brake balance bar. I almost forgot mine. They are to prevent the push rod knuckles binding at extreme angles. It's still amazing how much work goes into a car. Even on a production car it takes a lot of man hrs.
JD
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Old 10-22-2015, 01:00 AM
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On the stero, was in autobarn the other day. They have an amp(wattage up to you) and Bluetooth radio box that fits out of sight. Streams from your phone/iPod, can be put in the boot/dash/console if need be, very small and compact.

Looks really good Simon, have you had much contact with Tom at enkelmans?
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:34 PM
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Sime, your build is looking great, I've been using your pics as a reference for my own build. Keep up the awesome Work!
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Old 10-23-2015, 12:32 AM
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I just noticed that there aren't any washers on the brake balance bar. I almost forgot mine. They are to prevent the push rod knuckles binding at extreme angles. It's still amazing how much work goes into a car. Even on a production car it takes a lot of man hrs.
JD


Simon, Have a look at Wilwood or Tilton bias adjustment cable. I think they are a must...with a balance bar. Muz

Muz, my engineer said you can't have one of those as "the driver is not allowed to adjust the bias whilst driving etc" So in theory only the balance bar that is adjusted when vehicle is stationary etc using the spanners etc.

(I have one installed though but only connected "When on the race track")


Disclaimer: This is what I was told by VASS engineer - I am no expert on ADRs etc.

Some states require that the balance bar be made non adjustable (welded) after the certifying engineer is satisfied with the brake bias.



Hi Guys,

Just to address a couple of comments/suggestions regarding that pic of Simon's brake bias /pedals.

There's no need on these Tilton pedal boxes for any washers...Tilton don't recommend nor supply them, as the radius of the surfaces etc., don't allow any binding issue.
There was a comment suggesting that the push rods would bind when they reach "extreme angles"...I guess that means if the front brake push rod and the rear brake push rods are adjusted to push as completely different levels??

My understanding is that these two push rods "almost" push as the same time...i.e. not one pushing for an inch or so, and then the other one kicking in.

They"almost" should be pushing at the same time.
( Hope that makes some sort of sense)

And with regards to being able to set up some sort of "remote" adjustment, and also a fixed/welded bar....and whether that complies with the ADR requirements....

Craig has offered the following info.....

For explanation purposes, I have used simple terminology.

For registration compliance it fundamentally comes down to whether the change is performed by adjustment or by modification.

Adjustments are performed by changing or manipulating a hand control such as button, knob etc. It is still considered a (hand) adjustment even if the hand control is out of reach of the driver e.g. in the engine bay.

A modification is a change that is performed that requires a tool e.g. spanner to adjust the brake bias on a pedal box, spanner required to adjust the ride height on coil over suspension, etc. Obviously you can’t stop anyone from modifying anything on a vehicle.

e.g. Being able to use your hand to change the brake bias while vehicle is in motion or when stationary is not allowed. If the adjustment requires a tool, then that is fine. So by tightening the locking nut on the pedal box brake bias adjuster meets the requirements and needs to be performed before registration inspection. Welding or some other method of affixing would only be required if the adjustment had no locking mechanism.

e.g. Using your hand to change the ride height below ADR minimum while vehicle is in motion or when stationary is not allowed. If the ride height adjustment requires a tool, then that is fine. So that is why we can use coil over shock absorbers on our kits. But they are set at an appropriate ride height that meets ADR minimum requirements before registration inspection. (I am not going to get into Air Bags and Hydraulics as that is a more detailed discussion.)

There should be no difference between the states in this regard.


Hopefully the time I've spent on this isn't wasted, and is of some help....

Cheers,
Warren.
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Last edited by Wazza; 10-23-2015 at 12:35 AM..
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:15 AM
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The car is now all finished at the sparkies. Everything electrical works on the car...all lights,gauges, warning lights, steering lock, seatbelt timer, immobiliser, stereo, heater fan, wipers etc. 46 hours all up to do everything including wiring up my heated seats, amp and stereo.




Here's a little video of the testing process last weekend:

http://vid108.photobucket.com/albums...psgo1pgyl1.mp4

I'm picking up the car from the sparkies on Sunday, and then it's off to the exhaust shop on Monday. Thanks heaps to Craig and Warren at Pace for sending me my headers via express freight (on their coin)! Got them today and they look great!



About a week to build the undercar system. Body on after that, along with windscreen, lights and mirrors etc. Seats will be ready late November. Then it's off to the engineer's for testing/certification. Painting will occur whilst I'm waiting the month from VicRoads to get the VIN.

Happy days ahead!
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:09 AM
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Great news, the headers look awesome!
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:38 PM
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Sime,

Are the headers coated?

What size are they and are you going to run side pipes in the future?

46 hours for wiring a complete car, very impressive, was the engine loom

Already done or does the time include this?

Stiffy
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiffy View Post
Sime,

Are the headers coated?

What size are they and are you going to run side pipes in the future?

46 hours for wiring a complete car, very impressive, was the engine loom

Already done or does the time include this?

Stiffy
Hi Rohan,

They're not coated at present, but I will send them off for coating whilst I'm waiting for VicRoads to process the VIN. I believe the pipe diameter is 1&3/4".

I really wanted to run live side pipes but the constant worry of my kids (and other people) burning themselves has me deciding against it.

Ended up using the EZ-Wiring harness supplied by Pace in the comprehensive kit. My sparkie pared back wires that he didn't need, and added extras as required for things like the heated seats etc.

Cheers,
Sime
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:44 PM
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I wouldn't worry too much about side pipes, you just need to make people aware of them.
I have only had one person burn themselves and given he has been around cars for years and is a cobra fan he should have known better.

Love your work, your build quality is excellent!
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:00 PM
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Funny about the side pipes, a mate of mine burnt him self yesturday while getting out of a cobra, and said now he can see why i have not put them on with my kids getting in and out of the car, maybe side pipes when the kids get a bit older.
loving the build thread, looking good!
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Old 11-21-2015, 08:32 PM
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Thanks guys.

With the Cobra being a summer car and people wearing shorts in summer,I'm just not prepared to take the risk. AC Cobras are magnets for attention....I can't be around the car every single second to warn people. It might not be my kids but other kids who get burned. I couldn't live with that.

Live sidepipes are cool,but IMO the benefits do not outweigh the risks. That said, I'm happy to be proven wrong! I'll run the undercar system first for the first year and see what it's like to live with the car.
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Old 11-21-2015, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paintwerks View Post
Thanks guys.

With the Cobra being a summer car and people wearing shorts in summer,I'm just not prepared to take the risk. AC Cobras are magnets for attention....I can't be around the car every single second to warn people. It might not be my kids but other kids who get burned. I couldn't live with that.

Live sidepipes are cool,but IMO the benefits do not outweigh the risks. That said, I'm happy to be proven wrong! I'll run the undercar system first for the first year and see what it's like to live with the car.
im with you on this one i am going to def run under car exhaust and dummy side pipes . ive already had skin grafts and there bloody painful would not a risk a burn to anybody else .
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Old 11-21-2015, 08:34 PM
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All the sound with half the heat...
https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/m...obra-skin-wrap
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:10 AM
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Kids will stand on the side pipes to look into the car when it's parked, I witnessed this first hand a few years ago when a group of us headed to the Mundaring pub for a beer in our Cobra's I had the Daytona then. We all parked in a line and it looked like a show. Didn't take long before people were looking over the cars and I noticed several young kids standing on the side pipes to get a better look...made me cringe....Im going under body when I get my Cobra one day.....
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Old 11-22-2015, 04:52 AM
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I reckon install that defense system Bond had on the BMW 7-series that time - delivered electric shock to the buggers touching the car BEFORE they get burnt! Problem solved!

Anyway, back on thread: I plan to do the same Sime, with undercar and fake sides.

And to your question Stiffy, Simon also had a pre-fab engine loom I think he bought with the engine or ECU, as well as a kit body loom to give the sparky. So the sparky def had a head start. However as anyone who's playe with looms knows, having an existing loom and making it fit/work is not always quicker than doing one from scratch!

It all looks very impressive Sime!
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Old 11-22-2015, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
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I reckon install that defense system Bond had on the BMW 7-series that time - delivered electric shock to the buggers touching the car BEFORE they get burnt! Problem solved!

Anyway, back on thread: I plan to do the same Sime, with undercar and fake sides.

And to your question Stiffy, Simon also had a pre-fab engine loom I think he bought with the engine or ECU, as well as a kit body loom to give the sparky. So the sparky def had a head start. However as anyone who's playe with looms knows, having an existing loom and making it fit/work is not always quicker than doing one from scratch!

It all looks very impressive Sime!
Thanks Guy! I also really appreciate you coming down yesterday to help me unload the car.

Good point about the engine harness. I did neglect to mention that. I did use the GMPP controller kit (Part #19259293) which came with a pre-programmed ECU, fuse box with integrated relays for fan and fuel pump, 02 sensors, MAF, accelerator pedal and the full engine harness.

Re the EZ Wiring harness, we did discuss the possibility of my sparkie making one from scratch (which he was perfectly capable of and happy to do), but he found that the EZ harness suited the task perfectly.

Cheers,
Simon
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Old 11-28-2015, 04:20 PM
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A bit off topic but if you are looking for different latches try https://www.ovesco.com.au/ good service and reasonable pricing.
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Old 11-28-2015, 05:54 PM
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Cool link cheers
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Old 12-02-2015, 02:13 AM
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OK so i have run a product a while ago on a Diesel race engine that coated the exhaust manifolds it was unreal at heat insulation the claim that it can reduce surface temp up to 300 Deg c is not a joke either and I managed to find the site so here you go Explosion Proof Insulation - High Tech Insulators - HTI

Last edited by hp1050; 12-02-2015 at 02:15 AM..
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Old 12-02-2015, 03:18 AM
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OK so i have run a product a while ago on a Diesel race engine that coated the exhaust manifolds it was unreal at heat insulation the claim that it can reduce surface temp up to 300 Deg c is not a joke either and I managed to find the site so here you go Explosion Proof Insulation - High Tech Insulators - HTI
Thanks for the link. What a small world. I used to live in Livonia Michigan!

Do they have an agent here? I wouldn't want to freight my exhaust system to the 'states and back!
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