FFR Coupe 65 in Sydney - Page 9

SydneyChris · #1 (**permalink**) 01-01-2017, 04:44 PM

Progress, if you can call it that with the doors, frames and alignment as well as fitting the skins to the frames.

Ended up remaking the drivers (RH) side frame completely, far easier the third time around, but it actually fits nicely now. Probably spent around 4 months elapsed on the doors, which isnt great, but its also a big one to overcome. The USA version, without the side impact protection (ref the build thread from JimS on the FF cars site) is far easier to get it all packaged in the limited space available.

Have glassed a couple of brackets with a curved base onto the door skin. The flat surfaces mate with a matching L bracket welded to the door frame. These allow some movement in and out... and with the help of the small hammer, a little forward to rear also.. (edit) Added two more top hat style brackets with welded nuts on the lower half to complete the mounting points and allow the skin to be tilted independent of the frame to get a nice fit when its comes to final assembly.

The US guys use a stud with a perforate base that they glass to the skin.. ebay, amazon and the local hardware supplies dont carry these as far as I can see... would have made life a bit easier for sure...! See https://www.mcmaster.com/#perforated...studs/=15qi234

Best to all.

Chris

SydneyChris · #2 (**permalink**) 01-19-2017, 05:04 PM

thanks Wil... shame you are not closer. A week of skilled labor would bring completion forward 6 months based on my ability and opportunity..

PS.. General Custer was apparently a pioneer too... just not that many followers..

SydneyChris · #3 (**permalink**) 02-23-2017, 01:38 AM

Took the body off mine over the weekend.. been patching and repairing the fibreglass in 27 different locations from the all the 'prototyping' and mods to the standard shell that have gone on over the last 18 months.

Will do the wheel alignment checks with the body off, reinstall, fix it down and finish the fit of the doors, then its final elec fit off before trim and paint.

If you say it quick enough it will be over really soon and wont cost too much.. ! Hopefully I'll be an entrant not a spectator at this years Nationals..

Cheers

Chris

Bender · #4 (**permalink**) 03-11-2017, 12:03 AM

Hi Chris. Glass 4 classics may be able to make glass windows for you. I think the other company is Vintage auto glass or Antique auto glass. I chatted to one of the companies about glass for my 32 Tudor hotrod. They use 5mm glass for power windows compared to the normal 6mm. Less drag on the bailey channel for the electric winder motor. Hope that helps,
Neil

SydneyChris · #5 (**permalink**) 03-11-2017, 03:25 PM

hi Neil.. great info..

thanks. I was aware of Highland glass also in the south of Sydney.

Chris

SydneyChris · #6 (**permalink**) 04-13-2017, 06:29 AM

Roll cage given a final finish coat, nody back and headlining fitted.

Spent a charmed afternoon adding a 12mm sandwich plate to the engine mounts so the sump sits above the bottom of the chassis rails. Need to rework the steering column brackets now to clear the AC unit... all achievable, but far easier done when everything is not installed around it.

Fitted off the head and tail lights as well as one door.. the passenger side is not as happy to fit neatly.. hopefully make some progress over the long weekend before sending it off for final elec fit off then trim.

Spent a short period at Wakefield for a GEARS club race meeting... some exotics, some very expensive machinery and a quiet a few home built clubmans... 7-8/10th's racing... a great bunch of gentlemen having a fun day out..

Enjoy the break.. I think most of us are looking forward to it..

Cheers

Chris

Gav · #7 (**permalink**) 04-17-2017, 01:25 AM

What sump are you running Chris?
I have my engine sitting in place and the sump will be 40mm lower than the frame.
I am running a VE unit in mine.

SydneyChris · #8 (**permalink**) 04-17-2017, 07:18 PM

hi Gav,

Its a 2014 LS3, VE also has the stock AL sump. Arent you worried about knocking it on a speed hump or kerb on the track..??

spookypt · #9 (**permalink**) 04-19-2017, 04:32 PM

....or concrete barrier/fence post?

Gav · #10 (**permalink**) 04-19-2017, 06:09 PM

No not really, I'm more concerned with clearance between the top of the gearbox and the tunnel.
I'd prefer more room there.

BTW the same sump has runs on the board as far as smashing concrete is concerned

SydneyChris · #11 (**permalink**) 04-19-2017, 10:16 PM

ok.. I raised that part on mine... 20mm or so.. its does cramp the inside of the dash a bit but to every problem I create through interfering with the standard config there is a solution.

With VIC club rego I expect you dont need the min 100mm ground clearance..?

Modena · #12 (**permalink**) 04-19-2017, 10:30 PM

club reg requires a roadworthy certificate, and that has a check for ride height. Incidentally my RWC inspector enlightened me that minimum height is supposed to be checked with a car full of adults and their luggage....define that as you will!

SydneyChris · #13 (**permalink**) 04-19-2017, 10:47 PM

with 750 / 500lb springs Im not sure it will move much anyhow..

Cobrakiller · #14 (**permalink**) 04-20-2017, 09:17 PM

Hi Chris, you could use the C6 LS3 Corvette sump to overcome your clearance issue. By raising the engine you will also affect the driveline angles which could cause vibration problems etc. The Corvette sump will give you about 50mm more ground clearance.

SydneyChris · #15 (**permalink**) 04-21-2017, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobrakiller

Hi Chris, you could use the C6 LS3 Corvette sump to overcome your clearance issue. By raising the engine you will also affect the driveline angles which could cause vibration problems etc. The Corvette sump will give you about 50mm more ground clearance.

thanks CK.. will look into it.. have to drop the sump to swap a cam shortly.

EDIT... dropped the engine back down with the help of gravity..

Been looking around for the C6 sump (or oil pan).. GM parts direct in the US is around $270... rather then $350 (improved performance) to $450. Is the pickup reusable with this sump... any recommendations on local suppliers..?

With thanks

Chris

Cobrakiller · #16 (**permalink**) 04-22-2017, 07:29 PM

I used the kit from Improved Performance, you need the Corvette pickup. Comes with a new pickup, windage tray, dip stick and pan gasket $560 usd shipped.

SydneyChris · #17 (**permalink**) 04-23-2017, 03:22 PM

ok.. thanks CK..

ordered

SydneyChris · #18 (**permalink**) 04-25-2017, 05:43 PM

Was looking for a better solution to dragging warm or even hot air in from the engine bay for the intake by running the 4" tubing as per the pic, enclosing it in an insulated filter box and drawing air in from outside via a louvered bonnet vent (mustang style, 11" x 3.5").

Questions.

Rain and water issues.. will an outlet / drain in the filter box resolve that risk.
Sizing (id assume equivalent cross sectional area of 4" tube, plus 25% for friction loss), vent type (as proposed or..??) and viability of the solution..??

Look forward to any thoughts.

With thanks

Chris

Gav · #19 (**permalink**) 04-25-2017, 06:42 PM

Why duct it out?
The hot air from the radiator gets ducted out over the bonnet so the only hot air is from the exhaust.
If your intake was in front or on top of your engine it should be ok.
You could open up the back of the bonnet bulge like an original to introduce cool air in the upper portion of the engine bay if you need.
I'd wait until you have been running it and see how big an issue you have before re engineering it.

SydneyChris · #20 (**permalink**) 07-23-2017, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gav

Why duct it out?
The hot air from the radiator gets ducted out over the bonnet so the only hot air is from the exhaust.
If your intake was in front or on top of your engine it should be ok.
You could open up the back of the bonnet bulge like an original to introduce cool air in the upper portion of the engine bay if you need.
I'd wait until you have been running it and see how big an issue you have before re engineering it.

hi Gav.. apologies.. I missed your reply.

Two reasons... firstly I have a significant and overwhelming personality defect, which means I have to stuff around with things... usually making it worse before its finally resolved or put back to the original configuration..

Second, its a known hot spot behind the radiator on these versions of the Coupe. The most common solution is to drill a few 1" holes in the rear face of the radiator duct to positively pressurize this portion on the engine bay. That said, its still warm air at best you'd be using for the induction, which will cost on both economy and performance.

Am going to run the car for a bit before painting.. will be simple enough to cut and patch the glass until I get something the aforementioned personality defect will eventually be satisfied with..

Hope you are going well.. will look forward to news on your build..

Cheers

Chris