Advice on a mechanical parking brake that works?

PeterAllen · #1 (**permalink**) 07-21-2015, 02:39 AM

I’ve installed the Wilwood spot mechanical parking callipers but it appears they simply aren’t up to the job required. I’ve reworked, reworked and reworked cables, levers, pull rods, etc, etc, but they will not hold the car with the engine on idle and 1st gear engaged.

Today I maximised all the adjustment so the calliper was in the full ‘on’ position. I then managed to pull the cabin handle up just two clicks. As much force as could possibly be applied was.

I started the car, let it idle, engaged 1st and slowly let the clutch out. The car moved off with little or no resistance.
Can anyone recommend a stand-alone mechanical parking brake that works!

leroy17 · #2 (**permalink**) 07-21-2015, 12:44 PM

I will be watching this with interest as I planned on using the same set up.

I am sure that you have looked into this, however is there any way to add an extension for the caliper lever for more leverage.

Not yet have I looked at how this works, its just the most prominent option for a mechanical park (e) brake.

Detroit Bill · #3 (**permalink**) 07-21-2015, 12:53 PM

Is a parking brakes purpose to hold the car from moving under power or to keep it from rolling away when parked? You may be over baking it a bit. What circumstance are you trying to prevent?

Lexluther · #4 (**permalink**) 07-21-2015, 06:57 PM

I didnt think a "parking brake" needs to hold the car under power
tested the Subaru and it happily drove off under power but holds firmly on a steep hill...

Lexluther · #5 (**permalink**) 07-21-2015, 07:00 PM

Double post

dhs.buckley · #6 (**permalink**) 07-21-2015, 07:09 PM

not a bad way to snap an axle doing that

PeterAllen · #7 (**permalink**) 07-21-2015, 11:04 PM

There is no room to raise the actuation arm as it will foul on the wheel rim (see photo). As it is I had to go to 16" rims to clear the calliper.

The test requires the car to resist movement when some throttle is applied. That may be a little hard to exactly define but in my case it moves freely with no throttle.

I have searched GT40, Pantera and Viper sites and nobody has a decent word to say about this Wilwood calliper even though it's promoted by many performance speedshops. The common finding is it will hold a car once it's stationary but that's about it. I agree with the test standard, I really want something that will protect the investment I've put into this car.

There is another similar unit but all I can find are threads on how to install it, nothing on how it performs.

Rog246 · #8 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 02:55 AM

Hi Peter, what about taking a totally different tack and putting an old fashion tailshaft drum brake on it. Off a light truck. It's just a drum brake assembly essentially. There's got to be heaps of them about surly.
Hope that idea helps a bit, then Pi?s the other bits off on EBay etc to recoup some of your investment.

Rog

renovationinnov · #9 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 04:43 AM

how about the brake systems that are used on trailers over rider disc s as they pull up & are used as park brakes as well
just a thought
rob

joyridin' · #10 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 04:57 AM

I have one one of those on my car on the driveshaft and it does a pretty good job of holding it. I wouldn't say it would hold it if I dumped the clutch at 3k RPM, but it will stall the car if idling and you try to release the clutch.

I would think if you want something more than just a parking brake, add a manual line lock to the rear brakes and engage it before you leave the car. I had one of those on a previous vehicle and it would go nowhere without releasing the lock.

PeterAllen · #11 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 06:19 AM

I might be on to something here...

I'll hit the trailer and caravan places tomorrow and check them out. Lots of options if the concept works out.

2 X Trojan Mechanical Caliper Galvanised Disc Brake Trailer Boat Caravan 993469 | eBay

cobrarkc · #12 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 07:40 AM

What about this one

Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - Caliper Product Number: 120-12069

Tim7139 · #13 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 09:58 AM

Wrong test IMHO. Put it on a modest incline and see if it holds, if so you're done, if not, pull the small pad and install a thin aluminum shim behind it....retest.

David Hodgson · #14 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobrarkc

What about this one

Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - Caliper Product Number: 120-12069

Another Wilwood product? Might be a case of 'once bit twice shy'.

mln385 · #15 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 04:21 PM

I don't know about the OP's area but here in Massachusetts the inspection station requires the e-brake to be applied and hold at 1200 - 1500 rpm. I don't agree with it but that is what they do here....

My parking brake (e-brake) holds fine on an incline it struggles when gas is applied.

mln385 · #16 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 04:23 PM

I don't know about the OP's area but here in Massachusetts the inspection station requires the e-brake to be applied and hold at 1200 - 1500 rpm. I don't agree with it but that is what they do here....

My parking brake (e-brake) holds fine on an incline it struggles when gas is applied.

joyridin' · #17 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mln385

I don't know about the OP's area but here in Massachusetts the inspection station requires the e-brake to be applied and hold at 1200 - 1500 rpm. I don't agree with it but that is what they do here....

My parking brake (e-brake) holds fine on an incline it struggles when gas is applied.

What do they do with a stick shift car? Rev it to 1200-1500 RPM and release the clutch?

PeterAllen · #18 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 05:56 PM

My thanks to you all for the posts.

Firstly my apologies to Rob. Re-reading the thread it is obvious the 'trailer brake' idea is his.

Quote:

Originally Posted by renovationinnov

how about the brake systems that are used on trailers over rider disc s as they pull up & are used as park brakes as well
just a thought
rob

I switched from researching 'mechanical parking brakes' to 'mechanical trailer brakes' and got so excited I lost track of where the idea originated. Thanks Rob.

In reply to other posts. Our requirements are;
-Parking brakes must be mechanical, i.e. not hydraulic
-We have Massachusetts-type testing.
-Car must be able to perform Scandinavian flick turns (that's a joke Joyce!)

The tailshaft brake is the option of last resort mainly as it will require a fresh design, also, I don't have the transmission tunnel space of trucks and 4WDs to play with.

My concern at the moment is whether trailer brakes will fit over 20.5mm (0.81") rotors.

Treeve · #19 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 06:36 PM

In NSW the park brake must hold the vehicle on a 1 in 5 hill in both directions. Just for info.

leroy17 · #20 (**permalink**) 07-22-2015, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobrarkc

What about this one

Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - Caliper Product Number: 120-12069

I am no expert on this however a quick look at the willwood site shows that this caliper (above link) has a 1.7in2 pad area, when the one that you have has a .9in2 pad area.

Nearly double the area and I also note that the above has a piston (single at 1.19in) and the smaller appears not (just reading the wilwood material, I have not actually seen it).

This could be a solution, sell the wilwoods to someone in karting, get the above wilwoods...... wheel not re-invented, problem solved.

Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Search: mechanical brake