Jag front suspension / steering geometries

[CHANMADD]

I use 1.5 Degrees neg camber on all four wheels about 3 degrees castor on the front and 1/8 toe on all four wheels .Anti sway bar front and back.

[Tony Cram]

Stephen,

One thing you should do first is make sure your rear end is square on the car as you will need to do a four wheel alignment when ready. It is easier to make small adjustments if you rear end is set well before you do the front. Do you have adjustment on your trailing arms on the rear? You will have a little bit of movement in the bushes but not much. I found aligning the rear the most difficult as my fuel tank makes it difficult to add shims to make the major adjustments. I was lucky I had enough movement to get the rear pretty square.

My RMC is running 3° Caster, 1° Camber on front and about 1/8" toe. My rear is running about 1/2° - 3/4° Camber and almost zero toe. The Caster change to my car made a huge difference to track and fixed a majority of steering issues I had when I bought the car.

Cheers


TC

[Rebel1]

Stephen, regarding the set up of the rear end as mentioned by Tony. Tony is certainly correct about getting the diff square which is an almost impossible task with the RMC unless you modify the top mounting plate. I know you have a G-Force but they are closely related.

With regard to the toe of the rear end and the difficulties to change it by way of the shims under the inner pivot bracket.

OzVenom has a modification he makes to the lower arms and the alloy hub which allows for the toe to be changed very easily at the hub end of the arm without having to get to the diff center. I'm not talking about stressing the trailing arms as they should be firm but not tight. Keep in mind the trailing arm moves thru an arc therefore overtightening to increase toe and or squarness is not recommended.

You would have to send Scott your lower arms and alloy hubs but it is a modification that certainly makes that job painless.

Cheers

[David Hodgson]

Originally Posted by Rebel1

Keep in mind the trailing arm moves thru an arc therefore overtightening to increase toe and or squarness is not recommended.
Cheers

Les,
G-Force do not use original style trailing arms that project forward and mount under the driver's butt. They use bent/angled ones that project toward the tranny tunnel and pivot in the same axis as the inner control arms, forming a psuedo A arm, which does not stress the control arm or affect alignment through arm travel.

I would be interested to see Scotties modification, it wasn't too painful to get mine in square, with the body off using string lines.

If you plan to make "quick" adjustments to Camber with adjustable upper arms, don't forget this affects the TOE setting as well.

[Rebel1]

David, that's the way trailing arms should work.

The RMC pivots under your butt hence moving in an arc changes the static length.

You know, if a manufacturer wanted to produce the perfect chassis they'd lock us all in a room, feed us heaps of crownies, give us a mountain of scribble paper and let us do our thing.

The more I hear about the G-force the more impressed I become.

My diff was a pain to get square. The top mount plate had moved during the welding process and using the tapered head jag bolts kept pulling the diff center out of square. Drilling the holes in the plate and using normal bolts with hardened washers fixed the problem.

Scotties modification is to machine the lower arm so it accepts a concentric bush/nut . The bush has a hex so when turned changes the toe. That bush/nut is then locked in place when the normal nut is tightened.

I'll send you a pic

Cheers