Fuel tank suggestions..........

stephen low · #1 (**permalink**) 10-13-2007, 05:43 AM

Had Marty of Kenmer make me up a pipe connector between fuel cap and tank last Monday and it's taken until today to refibreglass the hole we made in the boot and fit up the plumbing - great.

Take car for a test spin

(drive only) and fill up tank fully - beautiful.

Get it home and the strong petrol smell is a giveaway but no, Marty's plumbing and the joints aren't cause its the horribly basic tube silver soldered into the tank thats cracked -

double bugga

It's the standard GF tank but made in about 1997 I'm guessing. Has the fuel out, in and vent tubes soldered into the drivers side front area of the tank, into the side of the tank.

Am after suggestions as to what to do now, particularly as the cracked tube is the fuel out feed to the pumps. Presumably this tube, inside the tank, is therefore fabricated to meet the floor of the tank to allow fuel pick up. How can I modify this?

Is my best bet to just cut out all three tubes and replace with properly affixed barbs or similar through a plate somehow reattached to the tank and presumably atop the tank.

And finally how does one do all this with a tank full of petrol vapour, and probably a small residual of petrol? I don't feel like blowing myself up just yet.

Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated, as it's a show stopper until I can refit the tank to the car - blast!

bobcowan · #2 (**permalink**) 10-13-2007, 06:14 AM

First, I would try JB Weld, or one of the epoxy based fuel tank repair putty's. It's cheap and easy. If it works you're home free. If it doesn't you havn't really lost anything.

You can't resolder the tube. You could try, but........

Aussie Mike · #3 (**permalink**) 10-13-2007, 07:25 AM

I've re soldered mine successfully. I replaced the return line barb with a AN#6 fitting. You'll need a blow torch to do it and some plumbers solder which has a higher tin content so it's a bit harder.

You'll need remove the tank, drain it and leave it with all vents open for a couple of days. Then flush it with soapy water and rinse it out several times. I connected the vaccume cleaner to the filler neck and let it run for 20 minutes or so before firing up the blow torch. I left the vaccume cleaner connected and ran it again before lighting the blow torch. The idea being to replace the air in the tank regularly so no flamables can build up in there.

The other option after the tank has been thoroughly flushed is to fill it up with MIG shielding gas. Cap off the larger outlets with a bit of masking tape to keep it in there. It's heavier than air so will tend to sit in the bottom of the tank.

Soldering the tank is pretty easy since most factory tanks are zinc plated and the solder flows easily once you've cleaned the area with a bit of acid paste flux. Most likely you will just need to heat up the area enough to let the original solder flow back into place.

Cheers

Full Throttle Al · #4 (**permalink**) 10-13-2007, 07:43 AM

After emptying the tank and flushing with water, put a couple of inches of water in the tank and some dry ice, that will fill the tank with CO2 and prevent any problems.

stephen low · #5 (**permalink**) 10-13-2007, 03:46 PM

Thanks for the suggestions guys - good stuff.

What I failed to mention is that the external part of the fuel pick-up / supply tube is actually cracked rather than the whole tube just being loose.

Sadly the crack has occurred close to the tank, so I can't just cut off the offending bit.

Could I still solder repair the tube, do I need to replace or is there another fix possible?

Cheers

Cameron Parsons · #6 (**permalink**) 10-13-2007, 11:48 PM

Mike,

I have to tell you, your post on safety and ensuring there is no chance of explosive fumes, was timely. I'm here in Mumbai. Yesterday I was out around the hotel and saw an amazing scene.

Seems a local car had run out of petrol, he had called over a mate in another relic of the 50's held together with baling wire and who know's what else. They had found a piece of hose and were in the process of syphoning from one tank to the other.

The guy sucking on the hose, was taking a drag on his cigarette between efforts

As were most of the spectators

I broke my own personal best time for the 400mtrs, heading in the opposite direction!!

'Incredible India'

Cameron

Sorry - Well off thread I know, but I had to share....

Aussie Mike · #7 (**permalink**) 10-14-2007, 12:04 AM

Hi Cameron, India is an interesting place

I'll probably be heading over there in the next month or so for work. I think I'll be in Bangalore initially. They guys that have been working over there have been bringing back some interesting stories.

Cheers

stuartt · #8 (**permalink**) 10-14-2007, 12:15 AM

I have a mate that fixes fuel tanks on a regular basis and all he does in make sure they sare empty and hook them upto a car exhaust, seems to work quiet well.

acecob · #9 (**permalink**) 10-14-2007, 02:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full Throttle Al

After emptying the tank and flushing with water, put a couple of inches of water in the tank and some dry ice, that will fill the tank with CO2 and prevent any problems.

when you use this method close off all the openings , if there is any leaks they will show up , if there's no leaks RUN AWAY !!!!!!!!! Fast

stephen low · #10 (**permalink**) 10-14-2007, 04:50 AM

Well three soapy washes and 10 minutes on the ducted vac did the trick, no wump, singed eyebrows or the like, but I was s@#ting myself though as I waved the torch over the tank.

The plan was to heat up the solder and remove the tube, assuming it wasn't further attached inside but sadly it is attached. Now I think its time to create a sealable access lid on the top. Seems I'll need Marty's welding skills again this week.

Thanks for all the comments anyway.

Cheers

Harrymac · #11 (**permalink**) 10-14-2007, 11:48 PM

Hello Stephen,

Find a roof plumber, one that can still solder.
He will need an electric soldering iron, (a big one) to have
enough heat.

He first needs to thoroughly clean the area to be soldered,
then he will need to 'tin' the area, this is soldering the area
all around the pipe so that you can see that it is all clean
and tinned, he can then solder the pipe to the tank and
build it up.

This process can also be used to solder fittings for hoses
into the tank. I have used gas soldering irons for the same
purpose, the big thing is to remember to turn off the flame
BEFORE taking the soldering iron to the fuel tank. I do not
recommend this method.

Good Luck,

Harry.

mickmate · #12 (**permalink**) 10-15-2007, 06:47 AM

Up here in the salt belt we regularly rust the tank lines on the top of our American Holden Utes (that's a Chevy pickup truck) the guy at the local parts store sells a kit that has a tube that works like an electrical shrink wrap. I don't know if you have any fittings in the way but you can just slip the plastic tube over the metal and shrink it to fit with low heat. If that's an option let me know.

stephen low · #13 (**permalink**) 10-15-2007, 03:16 PM

Proved I can't silver solder two pieces of tin together for s*&t last night, so the tank has gone somewhere where the job will be done right!!

A strange outcome for me, in that the same solder stick beautifully sealed copper pipe for my heater piping, and I reckon I cleaned the copper far less than the tin!

Anyway thanks for the comments and advice.

Cheers