T56 shift conversion

Kevin · #1 (**permalink**) 08-15-2008, 11:28 AM

This project was not too difficult. It was a little scary making sure it was put together correctly. It looks correct though. I tumbled the trans case to make it look like new again. not bad for a 1994 case. It gives it a almost ceramic look now. I still have to finish the bell housing, but it looks good. I have to get some more pics of the motor it s finally finished and running. Awesome is the only thing I can say.

Kevin

stumpeater · #2 (**permalink**) 10-29-2008, 06:20 PM

Test fitted my T56 and motor, it wont fit if I leave the reverse de-tent gadget on the side. Does any one know if Aussie Mikes or Mal Woods conversion moves it to the front? There is a casting imprint that looks like it could be machined to fit. Also is the gate gadget and de-tent setup left in place (under the front cover) or is it like this photo I found on this site, with nothing under the socket, where the gate is originally?

Aussie Mike · #3 (**permalink**) 10-29-2008, 08:15 PM

My conversion moves the reverse lock out up next to the shifter.

I use the position where the CAGS solenoid goes. Quite often this boss isn't machined so I have to put the gearbox casing in the mill and machine it out and tap it.

Here's a pic of one showing the reverse lockout solenoid below the shifter.

I do the complete the conversion with a billet shifter and a custom alloy gear knob (a few designs available). The box also gets billet steel keys in 3-4 and 5-6 synchronisers and a steel shift fork from the viper box for 3-4 selector. The conversion is $1100 all up.

These mods seem to keep them alive behind big HP motors. This box is in Garretts blown LS1 powered Superformance making 550 RWHP and it's still going strong.

Cheers

Tenrocca · #4 (**permalink**) 10-29-2008, 08:20 PM

On the AM style conversion the reverse lockout is moved to the forward position - I machined up a plug to fill the old hole in the back as I too had clearance issues when I put the skip shift solenoid in there (just to fill the hole).

I welded a bit on the socket part that catchs the reverse lockout pin when its extended - Wish I had pics - would make a lot more sence.

EDIT - The master beat me to it.....

stumpeater · #5 (**permalink**) 10-30-2008, 03:56 PM

Thanks for that Guys, Mike, do you leave the gate arrangement in operation? ( under the new shifter) I don't see how the one in the photo I posted could incorporate it! Also where abouts in Melbourne are you if I "Chicken Out" on having a go myself?
What's a"CAGS Solenoid"? There is nothing on my Box in that position just the casting imprint.

Aussie Mike · #6 (**permalink**) 11-02-2008, 05:29 PM

I'm in Sydenham out near Calder Park Raceway.

I leave the gate assembly under the shifter. It's esential as it has all the detents to keep the box in gear. The reverse lockout solenoid sneaks in beside it.

CAGS is "Computer Aided Gear Selection" In the early days boxes had a feature where the ECU could pop a solenoid into the gate that I believe would help you on the 4-5 or 5-4 shift. It locked in an extra gate that wouldn't let you push across too far and grab 2nd by mistake on the down shift. It was only used for a couple of years on the Corvette and I think most people tried to disable it because it was anoying. It wouldn't let you snap it into 3rd from 5th.

I get arround the problem of getting lost in the 6 gears with carefull shimming of the springs in the shifter. I use a bit more pressure than normal and set it so the shifter sits naturally above the 3-4 gate. This makes it very easy to navigate through the gears and the 2-3 shift just pops across as you push the shifter forward.

The boss for the CAGS solenoid is still there in the casting but usually un machined. I strip the box completely and machine the boss into the casing in the mill . Early boxes are easier as there is usually a threaded bung in the CAGS hole and you can just unscrew it.

Cheers