Flywheel/clutch choices for L98 Cobra

[sambo]

I've been reading about the stock L98 flywheel/clutch being a pretty average setup, particularly with flywheels warping and other failures. For under a grand I can land a Fidanza lightened flywheel and LS7 clutch kit (minus flywheel) from the States. This seems to be a well regarded combo over on the LS1 forum.

My question is, how will the lightened flywheel change the drivability of an 1100kg Cobra? Would I be better off sticking with the stock VE Commodore items or spending twice as much on a Textralia, Mal Wood, etc clutch.

I understand the basics of lightened flywheels needing more revs off the line, greater loss of engine speed during gear changes, greater engine braking, etc.

I'm hoping that other darksiders have gone through this decision process already - thanks in advance!

Paul

[Tails]

If you're still pretty stock with minor boltons I'd stick with the LS7. Pretty nice clutch for what you pay. I ran the same setup in my fbody making 430/405 and it held up nicely in a 3200lb car. So with that I decided to put one in my LSx FFR..

In regards to the flywheel the typical difference is aluminum for road racing, steel for drag racing. For these cars since they're so light I imagine you can get away with using an aluminum one..

Tails

[sambo]

Thanks for the feedback mate. I was just concerned that the lighter car might increase the effect of the aluminium flywheel. I think the weight drops to something like 6kg from the factory mass of 23kg. That's a huge difference.

[Aussie Mike]

I'm running a lightweight steel flywheel from Yella Terra. It only weighs 7KG and the clutch feels great. I'm using a SPEC Stage 3 clutch which is a coper ceramic puck style clutch. No shudder and it feels like a regular clutch.

You should check out the Textralia clutch. Aussie built with a good reputation and probably about the same price as an LS7 clutch by the time you import one.

Cheers

[sambo]

Mike, I saw those Spec clutches on eBay yesterday... do they have a good rep? Yella Terra have certainly been around long enough.

The guys on LS1 reckon well over a grand for the Tex and it can also suffer from shuddering, with all kinds of 3rd gear break-in procedures being talked about. Whereas with the LS7 combo I haven't found any negative comments and its about $400 cheaper.

[Aussie Mike]

The Spec is a very similar design to the Tex so is probably prone to the same break in problems. shudder might not be so evident in a Cobra since they are so much lghter and it doesn't take much to get one moving.

The spec is probably a fairly expensive too but maybe cheaper than the Tex. The pressure plate and friction were about $450 and the flywheel was about $400. I then had it all doweled and balanced which was probably another $100. At the time the factory clutches were all plagued with problems so an aftermarket was the best choice. Now that GM have fixed that with the LS7, the factory clutch is a really good option.

My Spec III



Cheers

[sambo]

Thanks for all the info Mike. Would you recommend balancing and doweling the LS7 clutch as well?

[Plums]

Go for a RAM Dual Disc Street Clutch from the US. It will set you back around a grand (plus shipping), and comes with the flywheel too. Will handle over 700 hp at the tyres and feels nice...

[sambo]

Another option to research - thanks Plums. I might have to buy shares in Google at this rate!

[Aussie Mike]

Many of your clutch setups like the tex and the factory clutches come as a package with the flywhel thats already been balanced.

I bought all seperate pieces so had to get them ballanced. The dowels just ensure the clutch pressure plate always bolts back on in the same place. Also sometimes theres enough movement in the bolt holes that the pressure plate can shift position heach time its bolted down. The dowels keep everything aligned.

Cheers

[sambo]

Thanks again Mike. I think it'll be easier and less costly to buy the LS7 kit complete rather than a separate lightened flywheel.

With the 6kg flywheel (vs 23kg factory)... due to greater engine braking is that likely to increase the chances of rear wheel lockup in such a light car? I'm really just looking for any drawbacks to the lightened flywheel here...

[Tenrocca]

Sambo - I went a clutchmasters stage 3 (fx300) (www.clutchmasters.com) and yella terra billet flywheel (not lightened, but I think it is about 20% lighter then a stock LS1). Came in at around $1000 landed, and the clutchmasters kit includes a new throwout bearing which I didnt need so onsold to lower costs a bit. Not a lot being used but the feedback on ls1tech was very good.

I did a lot of research on clutches, and opinions on all brands are many and varied. Desnt matter how good one person says a particular clutch is, youll find another who reckons its ****e and "blew up on me after 3 passes". But as you say generally Tex are supposed to be very good - just exxy.

[Beejay]

I went for the Mal Wood Organic Stage 3 clutch. I figured that if it is OK for the Brute Ute racers it will be OK for me!

Paul and Churchy / Pete also got this one.

Ben

[pneall]

Sambo.

I am running a Textralia and am very happy with the way it takes up. Minimal slip and no shudder.They have a few options now that werent around when I got mine a few years ago. Talk to Sonny at Maranos 9744 5355 about options.


Regards,

Phil

[sambo]

Thanks Phil (and Beejay). Just waiting to hear back from US suppliers before I try the local market.

[Philm]

I have a tex in my car, well actually a fidanza fly wheel and pressure plate and a custom clutch plate from Peter.

I would highly recomend Textralia, Peter the owner is the best.

3 days before the nationals I had the motor out of my car fixing the throwout bearing, only to find I was missing 3 teeth from the flywheel, I rang Peter on a saturday arvo asking where can I get a ring gear, the US was the reply.

Peter said bring it over, which I did and 2 hours later he ran to say come and pick it up, he welded more material to the ring gear and hand filed the new teeth.

All this and he would not let me pay him.

The ring gear is still in the car.

Phil

[sambo]

That's incredible service Phil. He sounds like a bloke who is still very much hands on. Just looking at the Z-Grip disc and clutch kit, would you recommend their slave cylinder over the factory part?

[sambo]

Guys, what else is required that is worth ordering at the same time? Eg, flywheel bolt kit, thrust bearing, clutch slave cylinder... anything I've missed for this part of the project?

[Rebel1]

Originally Posted by sambo

Guys, what else is required that is worth ordering at the same time? Eg, flywheel bolt kit, thrust bearing, clutch slave cylinder... anything I've missed for this part of the project?

Spigot bearing!.

[Tenrocca]

Originally Posted by sambo

Guys, what else is required that is worth ordering at the same time? Eg, flywheel bolt kit, thrust bearing, clutch slave cylinder... anything I've missed for this part of the project?

I got the APR pressure plate bolts and reused the flywheel bolt that came with the engine. Use locktite - (The red one I think). Spigot bearing as Les says usually come with a kit. I hope I have my terminology right, but I think the slave cylinder\thrust bearing\throwout bearing are just different names for the same part on the T56 (more then happy to be corrected if that is wrong), and if you buy a new gearbox (which you should) it should come with a new one ready to go. Have your local brake man make up your clutch line and a remote bleed as well - you cant get at the bleed screw on the T56 easily.