Cutting sidepipe notches

OhBuoy · #1 (**permalink**) 03-08-2003, 02:46 PM

Any secrets to cutting the sidepipe notches?

Tom

Jim Werth · #2 (**permalink**) 03-08-2003, 02:55 PM

What notches? Jim

OhBuoy · #3 (**permalink**) 03-08-2003, 03:06 PM

The notches in the body for the side pipes.

Tom

niles · #4 (**permalink**) 03-08-2003, 05:08 PM

Jim: that not helpful!

Make sure you have set/welded your eng, mounts. where you put your eng(fore/aft) will effect where the pipes exit.

Set eng first; place body on with headers : no side pipes and sight and scribe where the header buddle intersects body. cut very slowly and allow about 1/2 all around. maybe 3/4" above pipes for allowing for pipe movement due to eng torque.
Go slow; it's easer to slowly enlarge cutout, than reglassing body when you made it too big. trust me on this one; been there/done it!

gn

Clois Harlan · #5 (**permalink**) 03-08-2003, 05:33 PM

Like niles said but get some 2" masking tape and before you start cutting place the tape over the area you are going to cut. This will eliminate fraying of your fiberglass and also if you are using a jig saw on fresh paint won't scratch your finish. Be sure and under cut your holes then go back with a die grinder and good 2 1/2" long round grinding tool and finish your cut out. On my B&B I cut about 1/2" over size. Be carefull not to get into the front fender radius. Also, use undersize stainless bolts to bolt your headers up with this way you will have a little alignment room. I think I used 5/16" bolts.

Clois

niles · #6 (**permalink**) 03-08-2003, 05:44 PM

2nd thoughts; if you use a sabre saw and a 2 in sanding wheel for radii and clean up. Go and get a glass/carbine sabre blade: i got one at Lowes; looks like a blade with carbid particles bonded on; like very course sandpaper. Works fantastic for all glass cutting. Also cuts very smooth. standard metal blade trashed in about 10 in of cutting.

gn

ENTDOC · #7 (**permalink**) 03-08-2003, 05:57 PM

I found the neatest way to cut the pattern was with a dremel tool and reinforced cutting wheels.I then used a sanding wheel to radius the corners.I made my cuts vertical,however I would suggest using the Superperformance pattern as the back leg of the pattern allows more room for error in placing the pipes. chuck

Jim Werth · #8 (**permalink**) 03-08-2003, 06:27 PM

Hey I just wanted to understand the question before I answered. I bolted up the headers and drilled a hole in the body near the center of the header flange. I used a rasp bit in a drill and enlarged it till I could bolt up the side pipe. Took back off and enlarged it till I had enough clearance around the pipes. Did this a couple times. First side took my about an hour. Second side took alot less. Good luck

Thomas Gayer · #9 (**permalink**) 03-10-2003, 04:11 AM

Can anyone tell me if the clearance from the front of the footbox is the same on both sides? (Before I cut)
I have 1" on the pass side and 4 inches on the drivers side.
Are not the headers B&B identical?
I feel I may need to move the pass motor mount up 1/2"
thanks
tommy

Clois Harlan · #10 (**permalink**) 03-10-2003, 05:31 AM

This may not answer your question: But what I think you want to know is that there IS a left hand header and a right hand header as well as left and right hand side pipe. I believe the foot boxes are identical. I took my measurements for the side pipes off the lower lip of the wheel wells (front fenders).

Clois

niles · #11 (**permalink**) 03-10-2003, 02:52 PM

another "look out for" Make sure your header "height" from the floor is the same on both sides
don't cut body out until motor mounts are fixed/finished.
After everything was welded/cut; I notice the motor was'nt perfectly level, side to side. I needed a 3/16 in shim to make it perfectly level, because of the moment arms it changed the header "height " 1.0 in; effecting my cutout.

gn

Thomas Gayer · #12 (**permalink**) 03-10-2003, 04:24 PM

Thanks Clois and Niles,
I will reversethe headers tonight and see if that doesthe trick.
Tom

niles · #13 (**permalink**) 03-11-2003, 09:23 AM

Tom;
If you have 8 individual header as I did. There are probably 64 different combinations. I took mine out of the box and after about 4 hrs i had finally eliminated at least 59 possibilities and had two sets of four pipes all ending together and pointing the same direction. Only when I attempted to position my side pipe did I find that it wasnt fitting properly. After talking to the pipe builder he said they should be angled down about 10 deg and aft abut 5 deg. If not you have the wrong ones grouped. As difficult as that was to accept he was right. After another 4 hrs I found a combinationation that was as he described and low and behold the side pipes fit.

gn
(rocket science is easy-this is hard)

Thomas Gayer · #14 (**permalink**) 03-11-2003, 09:22 PM

Niles,
It is not the windage and elevation I am worried about. It is the amount of clearance in front of the foot box on the pass. side. I will post photos tomorrow night. I dont have a whole lot of common sense. I guess that is why i have my blood type on the back of my racing helmet. ( some people think i am trying to B positive...<g>)
Tommy

OhBuoy · #15 (**permalink**) 03-12-2003, 03:27 AM

On the headers, there is a small notch. This should be on the top and towards the footbox. This will line up with the notch on the sidepipes.

Tom

Thomas Gayer · #16 (**permalink**) 03-12-2003, 05:39 PM

attached photos

Clois Harlan · #17 (**permalink**) 03-18-2003, 01:54 PM

Thomas,

What engine are you running? If it is an FE engine then that seems to be about right. If you are running a small block, then it seems a little close to me.

If this will help any: If you layed your thumb flat at the back of your front fender well just behind the lip of the front fender and drew a line straight up about 4" then over about 6" and then down another 4" then you would have your notches (cut outs) for your side pipes. Anyway thats how mine seem to measure out.

Clois

DaveR · #18 (**permalink**) 04-02-2003, 12:13 PM

Anybody have a picture of the sidepipe grommets used to attach the sidepipes below the door? The grommets are listed on the check off sheet used before shipping, but I can't find anything that looks like it might be a sidepipe grommet, and there are no pictures in the manual or on the CD.

OhBuoy · #19 (**permalink**) 04-02-2003, 06:47 PM

I do not have a picture handy, but mine were red hard plastic. They have a top that snaps over onto a narrower diameter portion that slides through the mount point. There is a metal washer embeded in the thicker end.

Tom

Jim Werth · #20 (**permalink**) 04-03-2003, 04:24 AM

Hope the picture works. Jim