two problems...maybe

ebiggs1 · #1 (**permalink**) 05-13-2007, 07:58 PM

I tried to bleed the brakes today and, after fixing several leaks on the pre-assembled 9" rear end, I never did get a good pedal. I only had one quart of brake fluid on hand so maybe it is not enough. But still I would expect some pedal feel.
Second, both tie rod ends are screwd in all the way that they can be and the front tires still look toed out.
Any thoughts form the experts?

OhBuoy · #2 (**permalink**) 05-13-2007, 08:58 PM

I think you will need to get some of the rod ends cut off when you get your alignment. Of course, I have 2000 miles without one.

MacGyver · #3 (**permalink**) 05-14-2007, 06:41 AM

Did you pre-bleed the master cylinder before installation?

rbray · #4 (**permalink**) 05-14-2007, 06:48 AM

I had a problem getting pedal pressure on my E-M.
It turns out that I was not getting a full stroke on my tilton brake cylinders and therefore, not pushing enough fluid through the system.
My setup has threaded connectors that attach to the pedal. After I backed the connectors off a few turns the pedal was able to push the plungers in the brake cylinders through a full cycle and my problem was solved.

Hope this helps

ebiggs1 · #5 (**permalink**) 05-14-2007, 07:32 AM

I did bleed the MC first.

My MC has a threaded rod to the brake pedal also but I do not know how it needs to be adjusted.

pmfranke · #6 (**permalink**) 05-14-2007, 10:44 AM

you probably know to start with the front left then right front then left rear then right rear. It took a qt and a half for me.push hard on the peddle and Look at all the conections .Allmost every one for me had to be re-tightened.The one way valve auto bleed screws work great.

ebiggs1 · #7 (**permalink**) 05-14-2007, 12:20 PM

Did you have to shorten your inner tie rods like OhBouy did?

pmfranke · #8 (**permalink**) 05-14-2007, 12:57 PM

yes, 1.25" as i remember . cut with a hacksaw and cleaned up with a file( left the nut on then after cutting and file'n unscrewed by hand to insure smooth threads).Then go to a GOOD alignment shop NOT the shop i went to were they proceeded to screew up the threads with a pair of visegrips and forgot to tighten the A arm bolts ,after 4 hours of screw'n around, that was a wasted 60$. Good luck. Peter.

mobilenuke · #9 (**permalink**) 05-14-2007, 04:08 PM

Bleed from farthest tire away first, usually rt rear then lt rear, rt front, lt front. Do you have help or one man bleed?

ebiggs1 · #10 (**permalink**) 05-15-2007, 06:05 AM

I do have my son helping. I did run out of brke fluid because of all the leaks. (The floor is sure shinny now.)
I got fluid at each caliper but the pedal still sinks to the floor without restriction.

wfieldin · #11 (**permalink**) 05-15-2007, 05:52 PM

What rear brake set up are you running, I had some issues with mine that are from an earlier caddy, very tough to bleed, but there is a method. I also purchased a cheap power bleeder that helped a lot and you can recycle most of the fliud as well with simple tubing and a bottle.

pmfranke · #12 (**permalink**) 05-15-2007, 05:58 PM

mobilenuke is right sorry dislexia again. farthest first...ect.

ebiggs1 · #13 (**permalink**) 05-16-2007, 07:56 AM

I think they are from a Lincoln Continental. They are the stanadard ones that come with the 9" rear end. I have a Mighty Vac but I didn't try it. Will it help? I got fluid at all wheels but no pedal. It still sinks to the floor with no resistance at all.

BeasleyRB · #14 (**permalink**) 05-16-2007, 01:45 PM

I could get a pedal but after taking my foot off the brake for a few minutes the caliper would retract and I would have to pump the brake to get the caliper back out to engage the disc. I discovered I needed to work the emergency brake lever on the rear wheel caliper (lever on the caliper, not the e-brake handle in the car) back and forth a number of time to get the caliper out to the "staged" position for a good pedal. I discovered this accidently when I was trying to figure out why the caliper pulled back so far on release of the brake pedal. At any rate, I did this on both rear wheels and now have a very firm, solid pedal. Brakes stop good and I didn't have any leaks. Guess I was lucky. Mine are stock B&B rear caliper set up and stock B&B supplied Master cylinder. I bled mine with the help of my father in law. He pumped, I cycled the fitting. I put a quart through I think. Brian said these are GM brake calipers not Lincoln unless you have something different. Good Luck.

BeasleyRB · #15 (**permalink**) 05-16-2007, 01:51 PM

On adjusting the brake pedal I almost think it is somewhat dictated by the brake light switch and bracket (B&B Pedal assy). I adjusted he linkage on my brake pedal to properly actuate the brake light switch. Seems to be OK.

ebiggs1 · #16 (**permalink**) 05-16-2007, 02:29 PM

Thanxs to you guys that have been through this before. The car had to go to paint because I had an appointment at the body shop. I wanted it complete before but it was not to be. The body shop man said he didn't care if the brakes worked or not so I let him take it.
If you think of anything else I am very appreciative of your experiences. Should get it back in 7 - 10 days and than I will tackle the brakes again!

wfieldin · #17 (**permalink**) 05-16-2007, 06:44 PM

Are all calipers mounted so that the bleeder is at the top of the caliper, not below the inlet (brake) line. You could try and do some isolation, disconnect rear brake lines and plug at the junction on the rear end, bleed front, then hook one rear back up, bleed, and then the last. Seems tediuos but may show where there is a leak, I would have to say it is just air in the lines. The bleeder screws that are check valve may also help, but in the end my problem was just air trapped in the caliper.

Murphy · #18 (**permalink**) 05-16-2007, 07:16 PM

If you have the 80's style calipers on the rear like the kind out of a lincoln versailes or early vintage continental you must adjust the caliper piston by rotating it (it screws in and out, piston has threads) until it just causes a slight drag on the pads against the rotors. It's an odd system because of the parking brake. It would take a long time to get a pedal with a manual bleed if you do not adjustment first.

Seagull81 · #19 (**permalink**) 05-16-2007, 07:23 PM

This is pretty basic, but it hasn't been talked about. While bleeding be sure your helper holds the brake pedal all the way down and not let it up until you teighten the bleed fitting. Otherwise it will draw air back into the caliper. Then have them pump the brakes a couple of times and hold pressure on the pedal while you open the bleed screw slowely. I used almost half a gallon of fluid to do mine, but I was also flushing out the entire system of old fluid. You can get replacement bleeders with a check valve in them so they close as soon as the pressue stops pushing out the fluid. You can bleed by yourself by putting a hose on them and into a can or jar to catch the fluid. Also be sure to keep refilling your master cylinder or you get to start over again.
I know this is basic, but I had a helper once that didn't understand the hold it down part and it took awhile to figure it out since I was at the right rear brake.
Hope this helps,
Steve