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Post By patrickt
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Post By patrickt
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Post By jhv48
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06-12-2021, 02:15 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
"One Wire" alternators like yours do not have external voltage regulators, so you don't have to look for one.  I see on the instruction a little bolt hole for a ground strap but I don't see that connected on yours. But that doesn't necessarily mean your alternator isn't sufficiently grounded. To answer that question, put your Volt/Ohm meter on the lowest voltage setting. Then start the car and turn on all the lights, fans, and anything else you have to create electric load. Have someone rev the engine to 2500 RPM and put one lead of your VOM on the negative terminal of the battery and the other lead on the outside case of your alternator. If you read more than .2 volts (or -.2 volts if the leads are reversed) then you need to run a supplementary ground to your alternator.
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06-12-2021, 02:52 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
"One Wire" alternators like yours do not have external voltage regulators, so you don't have to look for one.  I see on the instruction a little bolt hole for a ground strap but I don't see that connected on yours. But that doesn't necessarily mean your alternator isn't sufficiently grounded. To answer that question, put your Volt/Ohm meter on the lowest voltage setting. Then start the car and turn on all the lights, fans, and anything else you have to create electric load. Have someone rev the engine to 2500 RPM and put one lead of your VOM on the negative terminal of the battery and the other lead on the outside case of your alternator. If you read more than .2 volts (or -.2 volts if the leads are reversed) then you need to run a supplementary ground to your alternator.
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Thanks Patrick, you've been tremendously helpful. However my battery is in the trunk, is there another spot I can use to check the Voltage drop?
In any case I'll have to wait till later (when I have a helper) to run this test, but I assume from what I've shared here I can drive the car in the current state without risking any "damage" to the electric system?
Thank you!
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Thanks
Art
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06-12-2021, 02:58 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Just run a long wire, a lamp cord cut up and spliced together will do nicely, but run it to the negative terminal of the battery. There are short cuts, but they often mislead you. If you really do need a supplementary ground at the alternator, then your VOM might read a half volt or even one volt. One volt would be a lot. But by all means drive your car. At this point you are only optimizing; you're not fixing anything that's really broken. FWIW, when I run a VOM from the alternator case to the negative terminal of my battery I read .05 volts.
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06-12-2021, 03:30 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
Just run a long wire, a lamp cord cut up and spliced together will do nicely, but run it to the negative terminal of the battery. There are short cuts, but they often mislead you. If you really do need a supplementary ground at the alternator, then your VOM might read a half volt or even one volt. One volt would be a lot. But by all means drive your car. At this point you are only optimizing; you're not fixing anything that's really broken. FWIW, when I run a VOM from the alternator case to the negative terminal of my battery I read .05 volts.
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Perfect, I’ll go ahead and run the wire as you noted. Thanks again!
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Thanks
Art
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06-13-2021, 08:50 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carlsbad,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
Posts: 2,616
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One wire alternators are grounded to the engine block by the mounting bolts that hold it in place to the engine block. No additional grounding wires are needed. Your alternator is correctly installed and wired as is. Hence the name “one
Wire alternator”.
__________________
Jim
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06-14-2021, 06:12 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhv48
One wire alternators are grounded to the engine block by the mounting bolts that hold it in place to the engine block. No additional grounding wires are needed. Your alternator is correctly installed and wired as is. Hence the name “one Wire alternator”.
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Sometimes mounting bolt brackets are powder coated, sometimes brackets are painted, sometimes the fasteners at the block or water pump are slathered up with RTV, sometimes there's a plastic washer between the fasteners, sometimes there's a rubber insulator.... The only way you can tell if a ground is really good or not is to measure it under load. Or, you can take a shortcut and just eyeball it and say "yeah, that looks like a pretty good ground to me." But you have to measure it under load. Just like measuring the resistance of a filament in a light bulb -- you have to do it when the bulb is lit, otherwise they all read 0 ohms. 
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06-14-2021, 08:08 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carlsbad,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
Posts: 2,616
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Not Ranked
A fluctuation of only about .3 volts is perfectly normal when the turn signals are flashing. What you’re seeing is the temporary loading and unloading of your electrical system. Load increases when the lights are on. Load decreases when the lights blink off. Your voltage regulator adjusts the output to the battery with each blink. You can do the same thing by manually flipping your headlights on and off rapidly or tapping your brake pedal.
Nothing to worry about here.
If your alternator wasn’t properly grounded, it wouldn’t charge your battery properly and your volt gauge would not show the 14.5 volts that you’re showing.
__________________
Jim
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