my first disgusted spectator

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by jhv48

Luckily you will rarely find anyone anywhere that can tell the difference.

Even though the uninformed might be fooled, you will always know that it's a small block. You can't fool yourself, and it's always painful when you're stupid enough to try.

[jhv48]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Even though the uninformed might be fooled, you will always know that it's a small block. You can't fool yourself, and it's always painful when you're stupid enough to try.

I forgot, there is an easy way to tell the difference between a small block, or rather any other engine, and an FE.

Look underneath it for the oil leaks on the pavement.

And were off and running!

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

You're probably right. When you were a kid, you probably knew somebody whose dad had a P&G Valve Gapper (which is pretty much what that tool is). It was one of the coolest tools you could have and you still see them from time to time on Ebay and at swap meets. But, like anything else, there's a "contrary view" as to the importance of getting your valve gaps "just perfect." In fact, here's a pretty good tidbit on valve gaps really not mattering as much as you think they would, and specifically addressing the ol' P&G Valve Gapper: http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...sion/ii_4.html

But since it sounds like you need to re-tighten the nut anyway, it's not going to be perfect and you'd need to check it with a feeler gauge anyway - or does the Gapper tool both turn the adjusting screw and then hold it in the exact position while tightening the nut? I had to re-do the adjustment 2-3 times per valve until I figured out how "loose" it should be before I tightened the nut which would close the gap just that touch more to make it perfect.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

But since it sounds like you need to re-tighten the nut anyway, it's not going to be perfect and you'd need to check it with a feeler gauge anyway - or does the Gapper tool both turn the adjusting screw and then hold it in the exact position while tightening the nut? I had to re-do the adjustment 2-3 times per valve until I figured out how "loose" it should be before I tightened the nut which would close the gap just that touch more to make it perfect.

If "torquing" down the nut, after you've already adjusted the lash, changes the lash then you would see it on the gauge and then you'd have to re-lash it. The Gapper does not hold the adjusting the screw for you. You still have to do everything the same way you do with a feeler gauge, but you get "real time" feedback from the gauge while you're adjusting the screw and when you're torquing down the nut (which, as we all know, changes the lash and you have to "learn" how to adjust/torque to get the right lash).

[dcdoug]

Actually, sounds like kind of a cool tool. But 250 beans ain't cheap. You'd need to let me borrow it to make it worth your while (so you could feel you were getting enough use out of it).

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

Actually, sounds like kind of a cool tool. But 250 beans ain't cheap. You'd need to let me borrow it to make it worth your while (so you could feel you were getting enough use out of it).

I will.





.

[lovehamr]

BBF, the guy was a penis of the first order but don't think that he will be the last. I myself, when confronted with such barbarism, will normally just walk away as though I didn't see anything. On the other hand, if the owner seems semi cool, I'll jack with him and give him a load of s*** over it. We'd probably end up laughing about my dino motor and your sacrilege.

Next subject: you said that you regret bying the MSD6 progamable, why? I'm about to use one with my dino motor with a locked out dis. So I'm interested.

Steve

[BBfangs]

The only reason I regret it is because I don't have a laptop to set my own limits. With my Digital 6 it is just a few clicks and done, that's all. I like MSD products and am sure this is a well made item. It runs well now but like I said I can't change limits at this point. Although I thought I saw a hand held programmer, do you know anything about this?

[BBfangs]

ratsnst1, it is a 509 and well built, isn't great to haul ass like that......

[Excobrabuilder]

If memory serves me correctly, many an E-M kit went out the door with Corvette and Jag suspension. Is that ruining the car? I don't think so! The last of the old E-M style cars went out the door with a 502 Chevy under the hood. They built kits for Mopar Hemi engines and even a Buick. I don't think any less of a Duce Coupe or a T-bucket with Chevy power, so I don't know why having a Cobra with Chevy power is such a big deal. Show your car with pride and screw the purists.

[Bobcat]

And 99 % of these "knowledgeable purists" don`t know their head from their you know what . I had a guy go ballistic over the intake on my 427 Galaxie because he said it had the wrong CAE number ( wife standing there ) ... He just couldn`t read , it was a correct C3AE # that the casting marks had run together a little ... he said it was CAE8... but it was obvious when you took the time to look at it . When I took him by the arm and forced him to really look at it , he just walked away ... never did apologize.
There are far more good guys out there than butt holes ... so enjoy yourself. you just remember the bad ones the most .

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

Just came across this thread, and I can't get over 'non-owners' getting all bent up about what engine we may have in our 'replica' Cobra. While my own ERA has a 428 FE, it's just about looks. I actually considered a BBC (big HP for less cash) until Peter gave me the 'talk' about accuracy and resale etc. A well-healed side oiler costs at least double what a comparable big block Chevy would. Lots of Cobras out there with Windsor engines that are no more 'incorrect' than a Chevy would be. I have no problem with owners installing Chevys or just about anything else that would run well. If it becomes an issue, just keep the hood closed. Just my opinion, of course.
P.S. Carroll originally wanted Chevy power for the early Cobras. Just think what the 427 Cobras would have looked like under the hood if that scenario came to pass.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX

Lots of Cobras out there with Windsor engines that are no more 'incorrect' than a Chevy would be.

Ehhh, I don't know about that. At least with a Windsor you have the right manufacturer, just the wrong size. With a BBC, you kind of have the right size, just the wrong manufacturer. But if you insist on lumping Windsors in 427 cars in to the same dung hole as bow ties in Cobras, then I'll end up agreeing with you long before I take issue with you.

[Excaliber]

Peter has a direct stake in the qaulity and reputation of his ERA's. I feel the same way about the Cobra hobby in general. I have a stake in the reputation these cars generate, good or bad.

You can call it purist all day long, but it's more fundamental than that. When you stray to far from the basic recipe you hurt the hobby, the perception of the hobby, you hurt MY reputation as an owner. So I take it personally, if you want to run a GM motor, please, keep your hood closed and keep a low profile. Or get used to being slammed, behind your back or in your face.

When I was running a small block Ford in another replica I used to own, I removed the 427 emblems and replaced them with Ford Power emblems. Like the original small block cars had. ALL THOUGH many "purists" see the 427 emblem as noting the BODY STYLE, not the engine cid. After all, many if not most came with a 428 not a 427.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

But if you insist on lumping Windsors in 427 cars in to the same dung hole as bow ties in Cobras, then I'll end up agreeing with you long before I take issue with you.

Now that is funny.

Now would a Viper V10 in a Cobra make a difference in anyone's opinion?

(that's rhetorical of course)

Speaking of dungholes, if you're going to lump Windsors in 427 cars into the same category as a BBC, then I have to say that "dual roll bar" Cobras may have to follow them down into the same dunghole.