Anyone put a turbo in their CR? 5k max budget

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Okay thanks i will check that out.
This is the shenanigans I'm dealing with. Is there a cleaner way to do this? I mean can you say slop slop beautiful slop.

There must be a better way - in the left photo it looks like there's interference between the cable and the bellhousing, and the way the return spring it attached it could fail at any time. That also looks like a pretty light spring - perhaps a throttle return spring?

[RedHawk]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

There must be a better way - in the left photo it looks like there's interference between the cable and the bellhousing, and the way the return spring it attached it could fail at any time. That also looks like a pretty light spring - perhaps a throttle return spring?

Yes!! What the heck. Any suggestions?

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Yes!! What the heck. Any suggestions?

Cable interference - probably two options:

1. relocate the cable by fabricating a new bracket; or
2. provide relief by grinding away a portion of the bellhousing.

I'd go with option 2. Remove the cable and bracket and get in there with a grinder, Dremel tool or file.

As to the return spring - source a proper return spring, then drill a hole in the clutch / shift fork to insert the end of the spring. OTOH, this spring is probably the clutch / shift fork return spring, with another, heavier spring on the clutch pedal or the pulling end of the cable - as seen in this diagram: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528006284c.gif

If that's what your setup looks like, the clutch / shift fork return spring is only doing light duty, so doesn't need to be too strong - it just needs to be better mounted to the fork.

[RedHawk]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

Cable interference - probably two options:

1. relocate the cable by fabricating a new bracket; or
2. provide relief by grinding away a portion of the bellhousing.

I'd go with option 2. Remove the cable and bracket and get in there with a grinder, Dremel tool or file.

As to the return spring - source a proper return spring, then drill a hole in the clutch / shift fork to insert the end of the spring. OTOH, this spring is probably the clutch / shift fork return spring, with another, heavier spring on the clutch pedal or the pulling end of the cable - as seen in this diagram: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528006284c.gif

If that's what your setup looks like, the clutch / shift fork return spring is only doing light duty, so doesn't need to be too strong - it just needs to be better mounted to the fork.

Thanks CycleGuy
So one other things I was hoping you could help me with and what caused me to investigate the clutch cable was the fact that when speed shifting through the gears ( not power shifting) second, third and fourth sometimes can not engage and it litterly causing a grind or just wont engage. If I perform a healthy run but take a slight pause between shifts there is no issue whatsoever.

What I was curious about was whether the cable isn't properly engaging the clutch fork because of the current setup or does this sound like a syncro problem? Anyway to go through process of elimination?

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Thanks CycleGuy
So one other things I was hoping you could help me with and what caused me to investigate the clutch cable was the fact that when speed shifting through the gears ( not power shifting) second, third and fourth sometimes can not engage and it litterly causing a grind or just wont engage. If I perform a healthy run but take a slight pause between shifts there is no issue whatsoever.

What I was curious about was whether the cable isn't properly engaging the clutch fork because of the current setup or does this sound like a syncro problem? Anyway to go through process of elimination?

That sounds like the synchros aren't keeping up and acting fast enough when you're 'speed shifting'. Other than re-building the transmission and replacing the synchro rings, are you running synthetic or dino fluid in your transmission?

I know the recommendation for my Richmond transmission was to use dino as synthetic was too slippery for the synchros to work properly. There's one exception - a certain Redline fluid I'm running, but I note the synchros are still not doing the job. I may go back to dino or look for a friction modifier to make them work better.

[RedHawk]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

That sounds like the synchros aren't keeping up and acting fast enough when you're 'speed shifting'. Other than re-building the transmission and replacing the synchro rings, are you running synthetic or dino fluid in your transmission?

I know the recommendation for my Richmond transmission was to use dino as synthetic was too slippery for the synchros to work properly. There's one exception - a certain Redline fluid I'm running, but I note the synchros are still not doing the job. I may go back to dino or look for a friction modifier to make them work better.

I haven't the faintest idea. I suppose I will drain and re-fill GM Syncro mesh,