Anyone put a turbo in their CR? 5k max budget

[RedHawk]

This is for those of you who said it couldn't be done but really it's for those of you who have always wanted to do it. Well it can be done and it is done and the car after the first test run is pulling very very strongly and I barely have even rapped it up or tuned it.
No intercooler as of yet either.

Costs:
Blower: $4k
Fuel system: $1.5k
My time: $100k just kidding.
Time required if original specs were correct from Torqstorm and no fab on bracket mounts.
5 full 8 hr days with 2 days of tuning.

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by RedHawk

This is for those of you who said it couldn't be done but really it's for those of you who have always wanted to do it. Well it can be done and it is done and the car after the first test run is pulling very very strongly and I barely have even rapped it up or tuned it.
No intercooler as of yet either.

Costs:
Blower: $4k
Fuel system: $1.5k
My time: $100k just kidding.
Time required if original specs were correct from Torqstorm and no fab on bracket mounts.
5 full 8 hr days with 2 days of tuning.

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

... And I'll assert that none of these are a "4 day weekend" project...

I would say Tony wins the cigar on this one for his accurate prognostications.

Lets see now, early March 2018 to late July 2018, calculating ..., calculating ... , Yuppers! That is more than a "4 day weekend project"


Ed

[Gaz64]

I hope your regulator is referenced to boost pressure.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I hope your regulator is referenced to boost pressure.

I don't see your regulator connected to manifold vacuum.

If we have 6psi of fuel pressure and 6 psi of boost pressure, no fuel gets into the bowls.

[RedHawk]

So that's interesting. I have the blow off valve connected to vacuum on manifold but the regulator is open to atomosperic which is what automotive website references. Do I create a t-valve and connect both. What I have been reading is to connect it somehow to the carb hat. Somewhat confused actually. Cars running okay so fuel is getting in there.

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I don't see your regulator connected to manifold vacuum.

If we have 6psi of fuel pressure and 6 psi of boost pressure, no fuel gets into the bowls.

[Gaz64]

I would think about adding a fuel pressure gauge, just for testing, in the cabin.

The reg could be referenced to the hat, so fuel pressure would be say 6 at idle, to 12 under boost.

Where as to manifold vac, it would be say 3 at idle, 6 at zero vacuum, and then 12 etc.

Depends on your current vacuum at idle, (camshaft), and how much boost you are running.

You could also reference the regulator T'eed with an adjustable bleed to the carb hat, then can you dial up what your fuel pressure curve is separately to boost.

Gary

[RedHawk]

I have a gauge on the reg and it is set to 7. TORQSTORM rec 6-8. The reg uses 7 as a base and then adjusts as needed. The vacuum seems okay too as it idles pretty good. I can check that later today. Thanks for the tips.

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I would think about adding a fuel pressure gauge, just for testing, in the cabin.

The reg could be referenced to the hat, so fuel pressure would be say 6 at idle, to 12 under boost.

Where as to manifold vac, it would be say 3 at idle, 6 at zero vacuum, and then 12 etc.

Depends on your current vacuum at idle, (camshaft), and how much boost you are running.

You could also reference the regulator T'eed with an adjustable bleed to the carb hat, then can you dial up what your fuel pressure curve is separately to boost.

Gary

[RedHawk]

Took your advise and taped the carb hat and ran a hose to the regulator pressure relief valve. also fabed up better intake filter.and routed it away from the headers and valve cover.

I also notice car was running rich so checked all the plugs and confirmed that suspicion. Looked at gap which was .035 and did some research and consulted Torqstorm. They agreed with my finding to closethe gap to the .028-.030 range. Then once cleaned up it mat require a slightly colder plug. Still need to adjust timing too but somewhat tricky. Anyone have experience with remote timing system that doesn't involve adjusting distributor and using timing gun.??
Only because due to tighter space its more challenging to get to damper to hit with timing gun.

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I would think about adding a fuel pressure gauge, just for testing, in the cabin.

The reg could be referenced to the hat, so fuel pressure would be say 6 at idle, to 12 under boost.

Where as to manifold vac, it would be say 3 at idle, 6 at zero vacuum, and then 12 etc.

Depends on your current vacuum at idle, (camshaft), and how much boost you are running.

You could also reference the regulator T'eed with an adjustable bleed to the carb hat, then can you dial up what your fuel pressure curve is separately to boost.

Gary

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

I would think about adding a fuel pressure gauge, just for testing, in the cabin.

The reg could be referenced to the hat, so fuel pressure would be say 6 at idle, to 12 under boost.

Where as to manifold vac, it would be say 3 at idle, 6 at zero vacuum, and then 12 etc.

Depends on your current vacuum at idle, (camshaft), and how much boost you are running.

You could also reference the regulator T'eed with an adjustable bleed to the carb hat, then can you dial up what your fuel pressure curve is separately to boost.

Gary

For safety, any fuel pressure gauge in the cabin can be either electrical or mechanical. If the latter it s/b connected through an isolator so there's no gasoline in the cabin if a line leaks.

Isolators: https://www.summitracing.com/int/sea...sure-isolators

[RedHawk]

Tonys always got to piss on my cornflakes. They're Great!!

Originally Posted by eschaider

I would say Tony wins the cigar on this one for his accurate prognostications.

Lets see now, early March 2018 to late July 2018, calculating ..., calculating ... , Yuppers! That is more than a "4 day weekend project"


Ed