DV... Need help .

Snake · #1 (**permalink**) 05-30-2002, 08:52 AM

Jim was talking about this problem?....The wiring set up for the electric fan has been troublesome as I have heard of several other CR cobra owners having the same troubles. Again DV can help you with this. I ended up dumping the thermostat control that came with the fan and purchased one from Jeg's that actually has a thermostat that fits into your radiator drain. It then has a relay with a control knob that you can attach to your frame. This is a much better setup that I used at DV's recommendation.

DV...do you have a part number for the thermostat that fits into the radiator drain and, does the relay come with it?
Also some help in conecting this all up...all I got is the fan from CR...I got it from the guy I bought the body from.
Thanks DV.
Snake.

dscott · #2 (**permalink**) 05-30-2002, 01:31 PM

Snake, I use the relay and thermostat kit from Spal and it works great. The sender goes in either the thermostat housing or the manifold. The wiring is very easy. I can send you a diagram by fax or mail if you like. It is really important that the Spal fans are run through a relay. They draw too much power for the stock wiring harness and can create a fire hazard or at a minimum melt the connection to the ignition switch. The Spal setup with the sender runs about $50.
Don

Jack21 · #3 (**permalink**) 05-30-2002, 05:48 PM

Spal setup sounds like the way to go.

I have a Scotts, and used a Ron Francis sender and relay setup similar to the Spal. Sender mounts in water crossover in the intake right where the water exits the head. Ron Francis is a little pricey by comparison, but it's decent stuff. Wiring is the bane of all hot rodders.

Snake · #4 (**permalink**) 05-30-2002, 10:56 PM

Hey Don! I'll give you a call tomorrow.
Thanks.
Snake/Gerry.

P.S. Jack21...Thanks also!!

Double Venom · #5 (**permalink**) 05-31-2002, 05:03 AM

Just another option:

I don't like using the "probes" that you have to "stick in" somewhere. Nothing wrong with them but we choose a different route.

We simply use and OEM 160 / 180 or 190 screw in switch. We mount them in the manifolds, one wire to the relay and that's it. No capillary tube, and very, very rare rate of failure.

They are also very accurate and consistant. The switch will reach the designated temperature and "ground" itself.

That's my answer and I'm sticking to it!

DV -- Gotta have more Cookies! Have you bought your raffle tickets?

Jack21 · #6 (**permalink**) 05-31-2002, 04:50 PM

That's what the Spal, and Ron Francis setups do. Had I known which OEM sender to use, would have wired up the relay myself. Got a year/make/model, or part number for the senders for the rest of our video audience who are testing a handful of senders in a pot of water on the kitchen stove.

Double Venom · #7 (**permalink**) 05-31-2002, 06:57 PM

Jack21,
Sorry about that. Jegs has a whole kit, sender, relay and the short harnss, it's a Painless I believe, it's also pricey compared to walking into NAPA and tell them you want a ?-temp fan switch.

Carb'd we use 160's to 180's, EFI we use 190-198's. I'll see if I can't at least find some part numbers when I get to the shop tomorrow.

DV- 2 1/2 hours and it IS DVSF II month!!!! Have you bought your raffle tickets?

Snake · #8 (**permalink**) 08-10-2002, 10:49 PM

Hey DV! I need a part number for the OEM 160 / 180 or 190 screw in switch...so I can hook up the CR fan...is there anything else I will need. I think I only have one hole in the manifold...and that's for the high temp gauge...got a torker 289 manifold.
Snake.

Snake · #9 (**permalink**) 08-14-2002, 12:38 AM

Hey DV! I need a part number for the OEM 160 to 180 screw in switch...so I can hook up the CR fan...is there anything else I will need?
Thanks.
Snake.