Need help with the wiring for the lights.

Snake · #1 (**permalink**) 07-21-2002, 07:17 PM

Hey Guy's! I've got some sort of a problem with the light set up.
First for the flashers in front...are they 1 or 2 filaments?
I have double filaments in all four rear lights, and single in the front. Can't seem to get the head lights to work with the parking lights at the same time? I can get the head lights to work alone...and I can get the parking lights to work alone. The flasher lights don't work in the front or in the back but the hazard lights work.....Man did I screw up some where? I need a 24! Does this make sence to anyone! If so what is an easy fix...yes the harness is a CR.
Thanks.
Snake.

Jack21 · #2 (**permalink**) 07-21-2002, 08:47 PM

Snake,

Swap your amber double filament in rear, for amber single filament in front. Fronts are park & turn. Rears are turn only.

Now, we've got some unaccounted for wires to review.

When I first tested my headlights, the toaster in my kitchen popped, so don't feel bad.

Do you own a VOM? Radio Shack, $19.95.

By the numbers, tell us what you have connected to what.

dscott · #3 (**permalink**) 07-22-2002, 07:05 AM

Check the switch, if it's not hooked up right you will get exactly what you are describing. Let me know what type of headlight switch you have, specifically if there is a terminal bar across any of the terminals. If the back of the switch is open with 6 lugs it wires different than the manual tells you.
Don

Jack21 · #4 (**permalink**) 07-22-2002, 04:43 PM

Aargh!

A fair number of things wire differently than the manual tells you. Wait until you get to the windshield wiper motor. (But, we'll wait until you do get to the windshield wiper motor.)

Tip: Put a little wheelbearing grease on the brass tips (the little piece the lens screws screw into) that install into the steel Lucas lamp housings when you install, and they won't corrode. Soldered & greased ground terminals won't corrode. A little grease on the gasket help waterproof it so bulbs don't crack. And a little grease on the brass, and contact portion of the bulb keeps it from corroding.

Same on backup lights.

Snake · #5 (**permalink**) 07-22-2002, 08:52 PM

First...Jack21...ya I let my brother hook up the lights in the back...and I think you have it right...switch out the double in the rear for the single in the front. Hope that corrects it...and the wipers...Hmmmm give me a couple of days, all be back. Jack what is a VOM meter...is it the same as an Ohms meter? Or does VOM stand for Voltes and Ohms.

DScott...The switch I have for the lights is a three positional switch...so all switch out the the top rear flasher light for the front...and then will see what happens...I wondered about the extra wire in the front...it only makes sence that the front flasher light should be a double filament and all four rear lights are red...is this a problem? Should two be amber? I left this up to Enzo at FinishLine when I order them.

Thanks Guy's you've been a GREAT HELP!!
Snake.

P.S. Don you wouldn't happen to have the latch set up for the rear deck lid, and the four rubber hood rests.....would ya?

dscott · #6 (**permalink**) 07-23-2002, 07:06 AM

Snake, Sorry I don't have either part. If your headlight switch is a 3 position setup as on-off-on I have a wiring diagram I can fax you. Or give me a call and I can tell you how to wire it.
Don 1-888-722-6272

Jack21 · #7 (**permalink**) 07-23-2002, 03:35 PM

Seems like a popular twist with the FFR crowd to use 4 red lenses in back. Photos I have of originals have amber turns for top rear pair, and red brake and tail lights for bottom rear pair.

Hood rubber supports can be found in hardware store as household door restraint bumpers.

Snake · #8 (**permalink**) 07-23-2002, 07:57 PM

Ok Don! I'll give you a call tomorrow. I got the parking lights to work, and the head lights to work..but separatly. The brake lights to work, the hazard lights to work....but the flasher lights don't work? My vintage air heater and defrost doesn't work at all? I'm using a 12v battery charger to supply the power for everything until I get all the electrical stuff to work...it should have enought power to run everything...or does it? What is the setup for the rear lights...which one does what?...and which ones are conected to each other for them to work right. When I first hooked up the power, the fuel gauge pined itself to full and has been there ever since...got any ideas? There is no fuel in the tank yet. The carpet from Classic looks really nice....but the pieces for the rear deck and under the seat don't really look right...do you still have to cut them to get them to fit right. Man..... so many questions. I'm glad that someones has been there and done that. Or it would have been a nightmare...but I love my Cobra it looks HOT!!
Thanks Don!

Hey Jack21.! Hmmm....door stops? How do you adjust them? Or do you. About the all red lights in the back...I left it up to Enzo. I wasn't sure on what way was better. I just order them over the internet and had them shipped. Ambers would have been nice in the top rear...since I have ambers in the front....oh well.
Thanks Jack21.

Snake.

Jack21 · #9 (**permalink**) 07-24-2002, 05:49 PM

Door stops screw in/out, and have rubber tips on ends.

Many brackets made from Stanley shelf brackets, then bent, drilled, tapped, etc.

Muffler clamp holds steering column by firewall.

Most CR hardware replaced with G8 for strength, or stainless for corrosion resistance.

Hope your CDMV inspection doesn't flunk you for wrong color rear turn signals. In the Peoples Republic of New York, a guy flunked inspection because the lenses didn't have the DOT number on it.

It's always the little stuff that drives you up a wall.