Installing the steering column teflon bushing

Wisconsin_Snake · #1 (**permalink**) 10-26-2002, 10:03 PM

Ok, I went looking through the book... I see where the shaft comes out of the (chevette) steering column housing... you are suppose to fit on a teflon bushing...
Where is this bushing suppose to come from... Was it suppose to come with the steering column? Purchase it seperatly???
Since it looks like I need to attain one, where do I get it from?
Thanks...

Double Venom · #2 (**permalink**) 10-27-2002, 04:19 AM

It should have come with your kit. If not, call Pete and he'll send you one. 800-373-9000

I don't normally do this, but if you want to get rid of the extension shaft for the column and eliminate the nylon bushing, (both create a lot of play in your steering.) give me a call. We have a replacement column that is a direct bolt in, and eliminates all the "play".

DV...If Pete is out of stock, let me know. we have plenty laying around the shop.

Jack21 · #3 (**permalink**) 10-27-2002, 08:41 AM

Snake,

Take that Chevette steering column, along with the steering column shaft, and joints you received from CR, and toss them in the trash. Seriously! If you hit something with this setup, the steering wheel hits your ribcage.

In fact, check in here before you spend another dime on parts as there are some "Updates" you should know about since that parts guide was written.

Get DV's collapable column, steering shaft, and joints for a no-slop, no-play system.

I did it the hard way before I found out about this with an Ididit column, a muffler clamp where the column exits the firewall, Borgeson collapsable shafting and joints. DV's setup incorporates all this and is specific for the CR Cobra.

IF you want power steering also, say so, and I'll tell you what worked for me. Works beautifully as a matter of fact.

petek · #4 (**permalink**) 10-27-2002, 03:30 PM

Snake,

Listen to DV and Jack21. I attempted to use the Chevette column and the joints that CR provided. Ended up with a good bit of slop in the steering (60 mph was a bit more exciting than 60 mph should be)! Fixed the slop with a set of joints from Borgenson.

I haven't updated to DV's column, but it's on my list (ask him about the in-dash key vs. the on-column key).

J. T. Toad · #5 (**permalink**) 10-29-2002, 10:45 AM

Jack,
I would like to hear of your PS setup.

Thanks for sharing...

I can't wait for the DV column, I have only heard regrets for not using one ....

Jack21 · #6 (**permalink**) 10-29-2002, 06:14 PM

Power steering in a CR Cobra.

This seems to be the #2 bane of all street rod, and Cobra builders. (#1 is electrical, and #3 is air conditioning). The Saginaw power steering pump and Mustang II power rack were never designed to work together. The late Mustang ('79 - up) power racks and either Ford, or Saginaw pumps will work together.

1) Power rack. Use the '79 - up late Mustang power rack as rebuilt by AGR (Andy Granitelli Racing). Summit has them. You want the high effort valving, standard ratio. It is the high effort valving that provides the road feel. The standard ratio (20:1) is 3 turns, lock to lock, and is plenty for a short wheelbase Cobra. The passenger side of the rack mount on the CR frame is slotted to accomodate either a MII, or late Mustang rack. Use offset rack bushings to mount the rack down closer to the MII rack centerline. You'l save about 50 pounds as the MII rack is cast iron, and the late Mustang is aluminum.

Power steering pump. Any '70's - '80's GM (Saginaw) non-metric pump will work, but the AGR from Summit is a nice low effort unit. In fact the Saginaw is not a GM pump, but is used on most cars and light trucks with recirculating ball steering boxes including Ford pickups, and vans. My upper pump bracket is off a Ford pickup. I had to fabricate a lower bracket for proper pump clearance.

Pressure relief valve. AGR will tell you that either the Ford Mustang, or Saginaw power steering pump will work. But a low pressure relief valve is available from RB's Antique Automotive that drops the operating pressure to work with lightweight front ends as found on street rods, and Cobras.

Hydraulic lines. Got a Chevy, and Ford high side line from auto supply store. Cut the connectors off each end, and had them mated with a short hydraulic line by a hydraulics shop.

Pump side return line is already on the pump. Rack side return line came from Ford parts, and shortened. Piece of fuel injection hose completed the connection.

Pump is mounted on drivers side. Steering column shaft goes over the header, and under the pump, and is a close fit.

Works like it was factory installed.

Double Venom · #7 (**permalink**) 10-29-2002, 08:05 PM

OR........

Jack, you are going to like this! Dealing with our custom steering columns now for a few years, the next progression would of course be power steering. I see no reason for it in a Cobra, but many others do.

Getting to the point, we are also a Flaming River dealer. We have been hounding them for years to come up with a power rack that would fit our streetrods and Cobras. They now have and are just releasing it!

It is a combined and engineered matched pump. Yup, you figured it out, it IS speed sensitive. The slower the car RPM the more "power" you have for the steering. The faster the RPM, the less "power". This is great news, talk about having your chocolate chip cookie and eating it too!

This is a direct bolt in for the rack, but you will have to come up with your own brackets for the pump.

Any questions?
DV

Jack21 · #8 (**permalink**) 10-30-2002, 04:11 PM

Yeah, Nifty! Small pump looks like it would be easier to mount, but would need an external reservoir.

You might want to offer this as a complete package; rack, bolts, bushings, pump, reservoir, brackets, and hoses.

Like my 17" wheels, I went against the grain on the power steering install. It was a pain sorting it all out, but it works so well. Granted, the car is not particularly heavy, even with a big block, but those 235's or 245's are not particularly skinny either. I see the manual steering guys getting their upper body workout getting in, and out of a parking lot while I'm doing it one handed.

Remaining "wish list" items.

Front upper, and lower control arms that use a '79-up late Mustang spindle to enable use of late Mustang brakes. Particularly where 17" wheels are used.

8.8 T-bird based IRS for the CR as a bolt in retrofit for under $2,500.

Double Venom · #9 (**permalink**) 10-30-2002, 05:21 PM

Jack,
You come up with that rear end and I'll take ten! OK, at least one!

The steering package is easy, except where guys start relocating everything. The problem is, there is no set pattern! We have the basic package already, hoses, high and low pressure sides, resevoirs, bolts, bushings, etc.

The DV II will be the first of our Cobras retrofitted with it. Gotta test it before we actually start selling it!

DV-- Jack, 17" inch wheels aren't a problem with tubular upper and lowers.

Jack21 · #10 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 05:15 PM

At Carlisle in '98 or '99, FFR had just introduced its' 8.8 based IRS. With an FFR kit it was about $2,100. Separately, it was about $2,500. The FFR rep stated it could be retrofitted to almost any other Cobra. Got the rep's name and phone. When following up, the guy blew me off. Like a good used car salesman, he lied through his teeth, or FFR management didn't want their IRS retrofitted to other Cobras. I still think it can be done.

The 17" wheels fit great. It's the 13" front, and 12" rear rotors that would also fit great if I could use late ('79 - up) front spindles to put them on. My 11" Grenada front, and 10" T-Bird rear rotors look anemic in that 17" opening. Like so many others, the front and rear suspension was setup for 15" wheels. I listened to the , "Don't put 17" wheels on a Cobra. It looks out of place". And at the last minute, I used 17" wheels anyway when Team III started making them for $300 apiece. Now, the brakes look out of place inside those 17" openings.

Baer has a MII front 13", and an 8.8 rear 12" rotor/caliper setup that would work well but at 2 - 3X the cost of late Ford OEM brakes.

Ken Greene · #11 (**permalink**) 11-01-2002, 10:13 AM

being able to go fast twice means you have to be able to stop in between. NEVER scrimp on brakes or you may only go fast once.

Jack21 · #12 (**permalink**) 11-01-2002, 05:25 PM

Agreed! Before I do the 393W upgrade, I'll do the 13" front, 12" rear brake upgrade. Can't "GO" unless you can "STOP".

tabester · #13 (**permalink**) 02-09-2003, 02:27 PM

DV
Could you send me some info on your steering columns. I would also like to have the key in the dash.
Kirk

Ktabler@msn.com

Art Burtt · #14 (**permalink**) 02-09-2003, 04:11 PM

I have one of those bushings,be glad to send it to you.
Just need your address.

Double Venom · #15 (**permalink**) 02-09-2003, 04:42 PM

Tabestar,
If you haven't, just call the shop and talk to Jay. He'll set you up with whatever you want.

DV... You will like it! Ooops! forgot the number: 740-852-5280

BCompy · #16 (**permalink**) 03-16-2003, 06:55 AM

Anybody out there with the Chevette Column setup from Classic ,run don't walk to the phone and give Ed and Jay a call at Classic's by Elite. I know this is not the forum for a plug but I just finished the install of my new Column and shaft.
Like driving a new car .The loss of the slop at speed is incredible and the key on the dash is a nice touch. I have to say I was never comfortable with the " Rube" look and feel of the old setup. Someone posted it made 60mph a little too exciting. I agree !
Thanks again Ed.