AP2289 Build log 'stage 2'

[tkb289]

Hi Glen,

Looks like steady progress on your build. Getting the motor all sorted before it goes into the car is a wise move.

Was the 302 originally mated to a manual transmission or an automatic transmission?

While the motor is in the shop, a few suggestions to consider especially if the motor was originally mated to an automatic transmission:

- Review with your engine man the whole flywheel / clutch, release bearing and starter motor setup that you plan to use.

- Discuss what type of crankshaft pilot (spigot) bearing or bushing to use with your Toploader. It will be much easier for him to change it in his shop, rather than you doing it in your garage, should it need to be changed. Sometimes they are easy, other times not so much.

- May also want look at the crankshaft end play, no doubt there is a spec for that. I am not an engine expert, but I would assume motors are built to accept either type of transmission and that crankshaft end play is the same or similar for both. Would not hurt to ask.

- As I recall you plan to run a hydraulic throwout (release) bearing, instead of an external slave cylinder setup, due to space constraints. You want to be sure your setup is correct to avoid having to take things out in case of an interference or a leak.

Keep up the great work, you are getting closer and closer to the completing the build and then driving & enjoying your stunning Cobra!


- Tim

[xb-60]

Hi Tim,

Valuable comments, thanks.

The engine was originally mated to an automatic transmission in an AU II Ford Fairlane. FYI, the Fairlane was sold here in Australia until around 2007, unlike your American Fairlane.

I visited the workshop yesterday, and work has started on the engine. I’ll be in there again on Monday, and we will be talking about the spigot bearing (thanks) and also the flywheel / clutch / HTOB specs as well as the starter motor and steel bellhousing.

Yes, I’m aware of the critical nature of the alignment of the engine / bellhousing / gearbox, even more important when using an HTOB. Removing the gearbox to address a HTOB problem further down the track is something I want to avoid! I wish I could use a conventional hydraulic clutch actuation; I’m told I won’t have room for that, so proceeding along the HTOB route.
I will also ask about the crank end play.

It does feel like daylight at the end of a long tunnel is getting closer.

Comments and advice always appreciated!

Cheers,
Glen

[Gaz64]

Hi Glen,

Are you rebuilding this engine as complete refresh, new pistons, rings, new camshaft etc?

Gary

[xb-60]

Hi Gary,
I know the history of the engine, and I’m not expecting surprises when it’s stripped down. That said, I know and trust these guys, and will follow their advice as to what they determine is required. The engine must be unmodified at the car’s inspection for road registration.

Cheers!
Glen

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by xb-60

Hi Gary,
I know the history of the engine, and I’m not expecting surprises when it’s stripped down. That said, I know and trust these guys, and will follow their advice as to what they determine is required. The engine must be unmodified at the car’s inspection for road registration.

Cheers!
Glen

Ok Glen, sounds good. Even a refreshed 5.0 EFI engine will be quick enough.

Are you staying EFI, or will it be Webers, or a Holley?

Gary

[xb-60]

Hi Gary,

Our compliance is a little different to yours in Queensland. If I change anything from “standard” on the engine, the car will need to be subjected to an IM240 emissions test… and that I do want to avoid. Any changes I make need to be legal; the car is worth too much to risk any insurance issues.

So, what to do? Our club started looking at obtaining the same freedoms that the street rod guys have, particularly for emissions (ie virtually no boundaries), but they also have so many other freedoms. We are not far down that (long, long) track yet, but I’m hoping we can get there some time in the future.

Back to your question, ideally I would like the downdraft Webers as that is what the 289 Comp and FIA cars (and also COB6008, my “inspiration” car) used. The JWA GT40s at LM in ’68 and ’69 used a similar setup, but on a 302. My Alfa has twin side draft Webers, so I have a connection there as well. Back closer to the real world, a nicely set up Holley would probably be a better compromise, but doesn’t look quite as good.

There you go… that’s a long response without actually answering your question

Cheers!
Glen

[1795]

Glen,

The Webers do add the WOW! response from people. Can't count the number of people who stopped by to look at the FIA at the US Vintage Grand Prix and were in awe of the Webers. While I absolutely love them on the race car, I am not sure how well the IDA's would do on the street. They are not really happy under 4,000 rpms and they really love 5,000 rpms and above. If you were to use downdrafts the IDF's might be a better option for the sweet.

A Holley would work just as well too. What ever route you go will be the right one for you. Unless it is parked with the bonnet up, nobody knows what's underneath the bonnet anyways.

Good luck.

Cheers,

Jim

[Gaz64]

Hi Glen,

So if your donor engine is already EFI, the EFI needs to stay to be emission compliant.

I don't believe you can change back to carburettors, or change the camshaft profile, or compression ratio.

Gary

[xb-60]

Originally Posted by 1795

Glen,

The Webers do add the WOW! response from people. Can't count the number of people who stopped by to look at the FIA at the US Vintage Grand Prix and were in awe of the Webers. While I absolutely love them on the race car, I am not sure how well the IDA's would do on the street. They are not really happy under 4,000 rpms and they really love 5,000 rpms and above. If you were to use downdrafts the IDF's might be a better option for the sweet.

A Holley would work just as well too. What ever route you go will be the right one for you. Unless it is parked with the bonnet up, nobody knows what's underneath the bonnet anyways.

Good luck.

Cheers,

Jim

Jim, agreed ....Webers do add the WOW factor. If that does eventuate one day in the future, I agree - the IDFs would be more suitable. My high diff. ratio results in my gearing setup equating to a five speed gearbox with no first gear (2.92 diff and w/r Toploader)

Cheers!
Glen

[tkb289]

Excellent choice Glen. Hopefully you can come up with some kind of mounting scheme that avoids drilling a hole in the body, but still meets the requirements. No doubt you will come up with something clever … another AP2289 custom feature.

[Alfa02]

I like it Glen, Oh, and the other reason I'm answering you, I wanted to be the 400th post. My car will here tomorrow from Az. I need to show you guys the wrap that was done, Brent wants to see a Cobra "Shed it's Skin" I'll have pictures More than likely upside down Just for you Cheers My Friend, Tom.

[xb-60]

Originally Posted by Alfa02

I like it Glen, Oh, and the other reason I'm answering you, I wanted to be the 400th post. My car will here tomorrow from Az. I need to show you guys the wrap that was done, Brent wants to see a Cobra "Shed it's Skin" I'll have pictures More than likely upside down Just for you Cheers My Friend, Tom.

Tom, you must be slow at typing .... Tim (tkb) beat you to it by 54 minutes.

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your latest acquisition.

Cheers,
Glen

[xb-60]

Patrick and Tim,
I wanted something that would look like it’s meant to be there (of course). It is actually a ‘60s Land Rover part.
I’m thinking that the light could mount on a bracket attached to the left leg of the roll-over bar, so I need to make the bracket look like it should be there as well.

Cheers!
Glen

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by xb-60

Patrick and Tim,
I wanted something that would look like it’s meant to be there (of course). It is actually a ‘60s Land Rover part.
I’m thinking that the light could mount on a bracket attached to the left leg of the roll-over bar, so I need to make the bracket look like it should be there as well.

Cheers!
Glen

OK, remember you can always do what I did.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by patrickt

OK, remember you can always do what I did.

That is by far, the prettiest, least obtrusive, and most functional additional high mount 3rd brake light I have seen on a Cobra.
Certainly doesn't look like an "add-on", and it won't hit you in the back of the head.

Gary

[tkb289]

It's the little details like this Glen, both the seen and the unseen, that make a build like this something truly special.

[xb-60]

Oh, thanks Tim. In all sincerity, I'm happy if I can approach the quality of your ERA.
As you know, an ERA FIA was in my sights originally, but was kyboshed by the need to import chassis and body in separate containers ....and on separate ships!

Cheers,
Glen

[xb-60]

An update....some frustration today.
Worked out a route for my battery cable (which I don't yet have) from its location in the trunk, left side. By far the easiest route forward required the cable entering through the rear bulkhead (ie the panel behind the seats) and then going down through the tunnel. I checked thoughly - I thought, but not thoroughly enough - that I could safely drill and tap holes for attaching a cover over the cable. The drill broke passed through the panel ....because it hit something. The "something" was a tee connection for the rear brakes.
So, needed to check out if there was damage. Not a 5 minute job; had forgotten the accessibility issues in that area. I had to pry the junction out somewhat to access a view behind it....




As it turned out, after some investigation with a medical mirror, all is OK




Cheers!
Glen

[1795]

Glen,

Whew! That is the problem with retrofitting things, you can't always see where something else is. I just had a thought while looking at your post, in the future (not just for you but me too) when drilling through aluminum panels it might be smart to put one of those depth stops on the end of the drill allowing it to just break through enough to be able to see what is on the other side before adjusting it and completing the hole. Remember to put a rubber grommet in that hole to protect the battery cable.

Good luck.

Chees,

Jim

[xb-60]

Originally Posted by 1795

Glen,

....it might be smart to put one of those depth stops on the end of the drill allowing it to just break through enough to be able to see what is on the other side before adjusting it and completing the hole. Remember to put a rubber grommet in that hole to protect the battery cable.....

Excellent idea, Jim. I'll look into that.
Grommet, yep. Already on hand. Don't want a battery cable chafing AT ALL!

Cheers,
Glen