Best way to lift body

[redmt]

Anybody have any hints on the best way or lift points for a Contemporary body? I have A frame hoists, forklift and tractor available. TIA.
John

[mickmate]

4 rugged guys one on each fender.

[redmt]

Originally Posted by mickmate

4 rugged guys one on each fender.

I need a plan B I don't have 4 guys within 20 miles.

[tcrist]

John,
Think of it in the same way.

Build a frame that will pick up in the middle using the A frame or forklift, with four adjustable legs that line up with the fenders. Then make some over bent brackets that will attach to the finder lips. Make the brackets large enough that you can put some cushioning between the brackets and the fenders.

You might even want extra pickup points in the door areas just for a little extra stress relief.

I can sketch you up something if I am not explaining it very well.

[redmt]

Originally Posted by tcrist

John,
Think of it in the same way.

Build a frame that will pick up in the middle using the A frame or forklift, with four adjustable legs that line up with the fenders. Then make some over bent brackets that will attach to the finder lips. Make the brackets large enough that you can put some cushioning between the brackets and the fenders.

You might even want extra pickup points in the door areas just for a little extra stress relief.

I can sketch you up something if I am not explaining it very well.

Terry, I was sort of thinking about making a spreader type rectangular lifting frame and picking from a central point. My problem with that would be finding balance center for the 4 lifting points at the fenders. I'm trying not to redesign the wheel, and make the real project working on the car. Maybe you could whip me up a little cartoon drawing of what your thinking?

Thanks John

[mickmate]

Hey John, I think I would put a 3x3 through the rear fenders sticking out a foot or so each side. I would cut another one to fit inside the top back of the front fenders above the footboxes. I think you'll want to favor that lift point as it will balance somewhere around the rear view mirror or windshield base. Pad them good as Terry suggested. Maybe 2 x 2 square tubes instead for some rigidity and room for padding.

[redmt]

Nick, I just ran out to the shop to look where I have a clear shot side to side. The rear is clear right at the front of the trunk and the front of the rear wheels. The front is clear nearly dead center of the front fenders but a ridged lift would put all the pressure on the inner fender wells. How about,,,, I have lifting slings that could lift from all bearing points. My only concern would be the crush factor at the wheel wells. This is a totally empty body except for the dash. Would I even have to worry about crush? Maybe fab up some sort of spreader to take crush off of the fenders?

[frdfver]

I used beams, chain hoists and tie down straps to distribute the weight and more tie down straps for safety and support after it was hoisted up. It looks as though the inner panels on a Contempory are glassed in to the outer body shell, extra support while lifting. Photos of NAF body hanging from the ceiling in my Gallery, all strapped up. Have had it up and down a few times fitting stuff. Used split heater hose at the fender lips and such where the tie down straps hook for protection.

Paul....

[mickmate]

I would lift on the back underside of the front fenders above your foot boxes. Don't use the inner fenders it's an unsupported fibreglass edge.

[Tommy]

I have no idea if my experience with my Everett-Morrison body relates to your Contemporary, but I'll offer it just in case. The body of my car seemed very sturdy in the front and rear, but seemed less so in the area between the doors. I planned to use a garage beam to support a winch attached to a pair of heavy nylon straps with hooks at each end. One strap attached to the body near the front wheel arches and the other strap attached near the rear wheel arches, with both pair coming together over the center of the car at the winch. These straps were leftover from an earlier job when I lifted the body from my 1963 Corvette in a similar fashion.

To keep the front and rear of the car from folding together around the weak center section like a giant pocket knife, I ran a 3/8" diameter threaded rod from the firewall to the bulkhead behind the seats on each side of the car. Large fender washers and nuts on both sides of both the firewall and the bulkhead helped distribute the lifting forces through the center of the body.

I was able to lift the body by myself and I left it suspended for an hour or so while I moved the chassis and positioned a trailer under the body. I didn't notice any problems doing it this way.

[redmt]

Originally Posted by mickmate

I would lift on the back underside of the front fenders above your foot boxes. Don't use the inner fenders it's an unsupported fibreglass edge.

I don't recall a clear shot there. I'll go check in the morning.

[Rick Parker]

When I was removing my NAF I had the doors off. I used a length of 1" box tubing with some plate welded and then attached at the front door hinge mounting points in compression with the other end attached at the door striker mechanism mounting point on the body. It worked well and prevented the body from flexing through the open door area. Pizza or beer party for a few co-workers one evening worked for me. We lifted at the wheel openings and front & rear.

If you attempt it single handedly, you might use some wide belting to spread the load.

[mickmate]

You don't need a clear shot there it's a lift beam cut to length to fit inside the fenders. Good suggestions on bracing the cockpit opening. CCX shouldn't need that as the tunnel is the backbone of the body and it's cockpit is glassed in while the body is in the mold.

[Barnsnake]

I did mine with 3 spreader bars. One with a length equal to the wheelbase. One with a length equal to the front fender width, and another equal to the rear fender width. The lift hooks are flat steel with pieces of garden hose over them and then bent into hooks. I didn't worry about the integrity of the fender lips since I had filled them with Dynaglass.

To get the front-to-rear balance correct, I put multiple lift points on the main spreader. I put the body on and off seven times by myself during the build. If you are worried about the body bending in the middle, run a rope down from the main spreader through the shifter hole.

I think I have some other pictures if this one isn't clear enough.

[Michael4yah]

They sell these on ebay, if your cherry picker has legs that extend to 60" this works well. Or you can use a gantry like in the other photo.

BODY LIFT Auto Restoration Tool Car Truck Rotisserie | eBay

[redmt]

Originally Posted by Michael4yah

They sell these on ebay, if your cherry picker has legs that extend to 60" this works well.

BODY LIFT Auto Restoration Tool Car Truck Rotisserie | eBay

I like it! I can whip one of those up from stuff in my scrap pile. I just needed a visual on an idea.

[tcrist]

John,

That is pretty much what I was trying to describe.

So you don't need my cartoon drawing I guess.

[redmt]

Originally Posted by tcrist

John,

That is pretty much what I was trying to describe.

So you don't need my cartoon drawing I guess.

I think I have enough ideas so as to be able to lift it off without folding it up or killing myself. Thanks for all the ideas and pix. John

[COBRA36]

What I did was put (2) braces between the dash and the rear of the back section or inline with the seat position To keep the body from bending in the middle when you lift the body off the frame.Along with other lifting points you will use. Good luck