Contemporary Cobra Watts Linkage - Page 6

mickmate · #**101** (**permalink**) 08-24-2010, 04:38 AM

You see the one in the picture has only 2 of 5/16" bolts holding it on. It does however hold it into a full width machined slot in the aluminum. I believe they are plenty strong enough. There is more force from braking than accelerating.

PDUB · #**102** (**permalink**) 08-26-2010, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

You see the one in the picture has only 2 of 5/16" bolts holding it on. It does however hold it into a full width machined slot in the aluminum. I believe they are plenty strong enough. There is more force from braking than accelerating.

Then that might be the hot ticket for outboard brakes with a Watts link... someone needs to go into design mode

.

Dazecars · #**103** (**permalink**) 08-27-2010, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDUB

Daze, got any pics with the calipers in place? I'm curious about picking up the mounting points for a Watts link... top and side views.

Sorry it has taken me a few days to get back to you, I have been very busy. I don't have any pictures, but I can take some if you can weight tell next week.

mickmate · #**104** (**permalink**) 08-27-2010, 08:23 PM

Already designed, made, installed and working. Ready for the next application, it should be pretty easy to adapt.

Dazecars · #**105** (**permalink**) 08-27-2010, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

Already designed, made, installed and working. Ready for the next application, it should be pretty easy to adapt.

So when will you have them ready to sell and how much $$$ do you think the kit will cost?? All I really need is the hub mount as mine os for a different application.

mickmate · #**106** (**permalink**) 08-27-2010, 08:43 PM

Putting some together right now, probably 3 weeks out. The complete kit ready to install on the round Jag hubs with an install fixture is $600. I could probably do them for about $400 without the top mount brackets and work with you on coming up with some for different or custom installs.

PDUB · #**107** (**permalink**) 08-28-2010, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dazecars

Sorry it has taken me a few days to get back to you, I have been very busy. I don't have any pictures, but I can take some if you can weight tell next week.

No prob.

PDUB · #**108** (**permalink**) 08-28-2010, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDUB

Then that might be the hot ticket for outboard brakes with a Watts link... someone needs to go into design mode

.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

Already designed, made, installed and working. Ready for the next application, it should be pretty easy to adapt.

Are you refereing to the outboard setup or what you have pictured above?

Eljaro · #**109** (**permalink**) 08-29-2010, 02:40 AM

I have my rear suspension with watts linkage now for over 10 years and have really abused it and it has never failed me.
It is a George Petrus product, both the arm and the hub with the watts linkage and it has outboard brakes.My Contemporary came already with the watts linkage support welded on the frame. In my gallery you will see the setup.
Check http://www.cobraracing.com/index.html for the different rear suspension parts for original jaguar IRS.
It is also very important that when you put your rear suspension back together that you check the rear wheel camber, which should ideally be -1%. To do that I use a digital level and two self made rigs and do it on the lift , even if the car is not level.
I'll be glad to help anyone out on how to do this.

lal Naja · #**110** (**permalink**) 08-29-2010, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

Putting some together right now, probably 3 weeks out. The complete kit ready to install on the round Jag hubs with an install fixture is $600. I could probably do them for about $400 without the top mount brackets and work with you on coming up with some for different or custom installs.

Mickmate, I'm considering the Watts setup for my Butler Cobra. As my frame is totally different I would only need the top mount brackets for the Jag Hubs along with the pivoting bellcrank. Are you making these components from Aluminum, or are these steel as shown in your photos. Would you quote me a price please.

I would have to fab my own brackets for the frame attachment points and make the tierods with possibly a different length. I have a surplus of 1/2" heim joints so I won't need them either.

Thanks, Arthur

Dazecars · #**111** (**permalink**) 09-01-2010, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDUB

Daze, got any pics with the calipers in place? I'm curious about picking up the mounting points for a Watts link... top and side views.

well here it is, better late than never.

The caliper bolts go threw the hub and screw in to the caliper. If I was doing it I would use the upper caliper mount. The ABS sensor hole on the top, and the tab, opposite the caliper (pointed an arrow to) this tab is roughly a mirror image of the top caliper tab, is around 1" think and could easily be drilled and taped to achieve a third mounting point.

mickmate · #**112** (**permalink**) 03-13-2011, 04:54 PM

Latest customer install, note car has a sway bar it works around.

67JET · #**113** (**permalink**) 03-13-2011, 07:37 PM

Looks good. I'm jealous!!!!! Dang it money - Where are you when i need you?

Ralphy · #**114** (**permalink**) 06-02-2011, 10:05 AM

Nick,
What if you were to manufacture a lower control arm for the Jag IRS. However also make a new bearing carrier with the mounting hole angled upward toward the front. This would make the bearing carrier pivot in and out through travel giving you toe/steer? I would also think the angled hole would have to be equal distance from the original position. The right angle would need to be found!

mickmate · #**115** (**permalink**) 06-02-2011, 06:01 PM

I've been playing with the tubular heim adjustable lower Jag arms on my spare time. I think you'll find the toe change comes from the caster angle on the rear uprights. If I want that I'd make them like the 60's cars, oh that's right I'm doing that ;-)

Ralphy · #**116** (**permalink**) 06-02-2011, 06:28 PM

I'm looking to go with Klaus Arning's T5 design. Inboard brakes as Jag has nixes that. Are you referring to the 427SC design?

mickmate · #**117** (**permalink**) 06-02-2011, 07:22 PM

You've got your design, all you need is a few measurements and you can get to it.
Later Jags had outboard brakes like the picture in post 111 above.
Yes I'm building per original 427.

Ralphy · #**118** (**permalink**) 06-09-2011, 06:38 AM

Just wonder if anyone has any numbers with regard to toe/steer. Does anyone know to what degree of steer works on a 90" wheelbase Cobra? I would think the real numbers would be something like .150 degree per inch of travel. So two inches of travel would equal .300 degree.

Ralphy

Shelboss · #**119** (**permalink**) 12-12-2012, 10:30 AM

Radius rods do not work on a hard-mounted Jag IRS unless they are in line with the inner pivot of the lower control arm. This is what Unique does when they angle the radius rods inward under the gas tank. ERA rubber mounts in a cage like Jaguar did. My early Contemporary had radius arms going forward to the 2nd bulkhead, about 3 ft long. Peter Bayer told me they don't work. Contemporary did away with them after the prototypes and had nothing until someone complained about wheel hop, then they offered the watts linkage. As the radius rod moves thru full travel, it pulls the lower control arm forward and back about .060". You can get away with them with rubber mounts but you are still stressing the lower control arm. The watts linkage lets the arm move freely up and down.

four 27 · #**120** (**permalink**) 04-29-2013, 02:32 PM

Does anyone know where I can buy a complete ..watts setup for a contemporary? Sounds like they are out there.

RC