New JBL Cobra Daytona Coupe Street Version Build

[Richard Hudgins]

Originally Posted by vector1

I would be interested to hear what kind of concessions and how much of a difference between the touring chassis and comp chassis, considering performance, design, etc.

There are some differences in the dynamics and therein differences in feel.

The Touring chassis is not as stiff in torsion and therefore not as responsive to anti-roll bar adjustments. That is why I designed the f/r centrally mounted single blade adjustable system. (as optionally fitted)

Also this reduced stiffness is forward of the foot-box bulkhead and therefore the chassis required more camber change in the front suspension to counter the flex.

The roll centers were raised slightly relative to the CG compared to the comp chassis to reduce the load roll moment.

In essence the touring chassis will feel much more like a normal road going sports car than the comp car as the loads will build slower and the damping rates are subsequently lower as well.

It will not "Snap" or "point" when it changes directions like your comp chassis does. Rather it will turn and roll gently.

But the geometries should produce about the same lateral acceleration as the comp chassis on road tyres.

On slicks there will be a large difference indeed.

But who puts slicks on a touring car?

[Clois Harlan]

Me Richard, Me!!! I plan to put the coupe on the track asap.

I plan on streetching it's legs to give it a fair evaluation. Most, if not ALL other coupes are steet versions and I think the JBL version will be superior to the other mfgs. when compared on a tit for tat basis. I had rented Hallett in October but I had to cancel because I doubt if the coupe will be ready by then.

Clois

[Clois Harlan]

I filled and bled my Clutch master cylinder the other day. I am using the same style internal master cylinder that comes on the new Shelby GT 500 (Green rubber around the spring loaded bearing) that does not have a bleed line. Here is a little trick that works really quick when bleeding the clutch.
Once you fill your reservoir with fluid and tap the clutch line a few times to get any bubbles that may be lodged along the line to the top of your master cylinder and you are still not happy with your pedal feel.

Required tools (assuming you are using a Wilwood style 5/8" master cylinder and plastic reservior): (1)Mighty Vac used for bleeding brakes etc. (2) 1 1/2" sink drain stopper (3) 1/4" drill bit (4) the black rubber sleeve that goes over your push rod that attaches between your firewall and clutch pedal.

First drill a 1/4" hole through the middle of your sink stopper, insert the sink stopper inside the black rubber sleve as mentioned above and use one of the black rubber hose adaptors that came in your might vac kit and place that aroun your drain stopper with the hose adaptor tapered end extending through the hole in your black sleeve.

Then firmly push the sink stopper into the top of your master cylinder reservior and attach the clear hose from your mighty vac to the hose adaptor and pull 25 lbs of vacuum and hole that for one minute. Then release the vacuum pressure and go inside your car and pump your clutch 10 or 12 times. Repeat this two more times and your clutch will be working properly with the desired feel.

If you like tomorrow I will post pictures of my little contraption but it works so well. This was the easiest clutch I have ever bleed.

Clois Harlan

[dallas_]

Originally Posted by Clois Harlan

If you like tomorrow I will post pictures of my little contraption but it works so well. This was the easiest clutch I have ever bleed.

Yes I like. Please do post the photos.